My Grandpas Garden

Edgers

2011-05-04T05:40:00.000-07:00


	Radius Garden 206 PRO Ergonomic Stainless Steel Edger Buy new: $32.66 Usually ships in 24 hours
	Hound Dog HDP6-4 Products Steppin' Edger Buy new: $31.87 Usually ships in 1-2 business days
	Ames True Temper 1975900 Deluxe Rotary Edger with 48-Inch Wood Handle Buy new: $36.66 Usually ships in 24 hours
	Handle Rotary-Union Lawn Edger, 43" Buy new: $25.15 Usually ships in 1-2 business days
	Yard Butler Lawn Step Edger EDGE-180 Buy new: $32.96 Usually ships in 24 hours
	Brook & Hunter 11050DY Premium 40-Inch Edger with Handcrafted Red Oak Handle and Stainless Steel Alloy Polished Blade Buy new: $49.07 Usually ships in 24 hours
	WOLF-Garten Half-Moon Edger 3312004 Buy new: $19.99 Usually ships in 24 hours
	Garden Weasel 91704 Garden Weasel Lawn Edger Buy new: $18.49 Usually ships in 3-4 business days
	Gardena 8830 8-Inch Lithium-Ion Cordless Grass Trimmer/Edger With Telescopic Handle Buy new: $199.00 Usually ships in 24 hours
	WOLF Garten RBM Lawn Edge Trimmer 3323000 Buy new: $29.99 Usually ships in 24 hours
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Fiskars Lawn and Garden tools

2011-05-03T08:03:00.001-07:00

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	Fiskars 7870 Uproot Lawn & Garden Weeder Buy new: $31.49 Usually ships in 24 hours
	Fiskars 7067 3-Piece Softouch Garden Tool Set Buy new: $13.99 Usually ships in 24 hours
	Fiskars 9154 PowerGear 32-Inch Bypass Lopper Buy new: $30.96 Usually ships in 24 hours
	Fiskars 7850 X7 14-Inch Hatchet Buy new: $23.92 Usually ships in 24 hours
	Fiskars 9109 Traditional Bypass Pruning Shears Buy new: $11.91 Usually ships in 24 hours
	Fiskars 7858 Pro Chopping Axe Buy new: $35.36 Usually ships in 24 hours
	Fiskars 9424 Garden Bucket Caddy Buy new: $12.23 Usually ships in 24 hours
	Fiskars 9234 62-Inch Pruning Stik Buy new: $36.97 / Used from: $31.99 Usually ships in 24 hours
	Fiskars 9625 18-Inch PowerGear Bypass Lopper Buy new: $25.43 Usually ships in 24 hours
	Fiskars 7860 Brush Axe Buy new: $24.64 Usually ships in 24 hours
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Felco F-6 Classic Pruner For Smaller Hands From Felco

2010-03-31T05:24:00.000-07:00

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Product Details

Felco F-6 Classic Pruner For Smaller Hands
From Felco

List Price:	$59.99
Price:	$43.02 & eligible for FREE Super Saver Shipping on orders over $25. Details

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17 new or used available from $37.79

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Product Description

Designed for those with smaller hands who may prefer a smaller, lighter pruner. It is comfortable to use yet every bit as sturdy and powerful as the other Felco models. Ideal for small pruning work such as grape vines, shrubs and young trees. It is also the choice of many florists. The anvil blade is screw mounted. The shorter blades facilitate closer cutting to the stem of the plant. Length 7.25".

Product Details

Amazon Sales Rank: #138 in Lawn & Patio
Brand: Felco
Model: F-6
Number of items: 1
Dimensions: 3.75" h x 1.50" w x 11.00" l, .65 pounds

Features

Ideal pruner for small pruning work such as grape vines, shrubs, and young trees
Screw-mounted blade for easy re-sharpening or blade replacement
Lightweight metal handles
0.8-inch cutting capacity
Limited lifetime warranty

Customer Reviews

The gold standard for small hands. Buy It!
Ever since I got my first Felco pruner, I will not even consider buying any other brand. Not only do they work better than any other brand, they are simple to take apart and clean and replace worn parts. They are even relatively simple to sharpen, although it takes a slightly different touch than your pocket knife or chef's knife.

The bottom line is that they work really, really well for years, even without sharpening. Their scissors action is much better than the anvil style. This F-2 model is the most general purpose design and I use it on virtually everything.

I will suggest that if, like me, you have relatively small hands, the smaller F-6 model is slightly more comfortable and easier to use for most work. I have both and use the F-6 for heavy duty end of the year pruning and the F-2 throughout the summer for average pruning jobs. If you only want one of these little gems, this smaller one will do everything the larger one does, but with a bit more effort.

Nothing Compares!
When I cleaned out my garage, I found at least 5 or 6 rusty pruners. I cleaned them up and started using them again. I realized I had let them get lost and rusty because they were all horrible. These are different. They're unbelievably sharp and effortless to use. I adore them and I'm very pleased to see that the parts can be replaced as needed. I'm considering replacing my lopper with Felcos. I held off buying these because of the cost, but they're well worth it and I take better care of them than my other pruners. Don't be fooled by the lookalike brands. I have a pair of those that cost half the price and they're barely better than a $6 pair from the depot. I have average female hands and Felco #6 is comfortable to use and hold. I was thrilled that Amazon had these in stock at a good price.

excellent for small hands
I have small to med hands and this pruner is the best I have ever used I think I will have to buy another for my wife so she doesnt steal mine.

All New Square Foot Gardening: Grow More in Less Space! By Mel Bartholomew

2009-12-18T05:10:00.000-08:00

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Product Details

All New Square Foot Gardening: Grow More in Less Space!
By Mel Bartholomew

List Price:	$19.99
Price:	$13.59 & eligible for FREE Super Saver Shipping on orders over $25. Details

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53 new or used available from $9.57

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Product Description

Do you know what the best feature is in "All New Square Foot Gardening"?

Sure, there are ten new features in this all-new, updated book. Sure, it's even simpler than it was before. Of course, you don't have to worry about fertilizer or poor soil ever again because you'll be growing above the ground.

But, the best feature is that "anyone," "anywhere" can enjoy a Square Foot garden. Children, adults with limited mobility, even complete novices can achieve spectacular results.

But, let's get back to the ten improvements. You're going to love them.

1)????? New Location - Move your garden closer to your house by eliminating single-row gardening. Square Foot Garden needs just "twenty percent" of the space of a traditional garden.

2)????? New Direction - Locate your garden "on top" of existing soil. Forget about pH soil tests, double-digging (who enjoys that?), or the never-ending soil improvements.

3)????? New Soil - The new "Mel's Mix" is the perfect growing mix. Why, we even give you the recipe. Best of all, you can even "buy" the different types of compost needed.

4)????? New Depth - You only need to prepare a SFG box to a depth of 6 inches! It's true--the majority of plants develop just fine when grown at this depth.

5)????? No Fertilizer - The all new SFG does not need any fertilizer-ever! If you start with the perfect soil mix, then you don't need to add fertilizer.

6)????? New Boxes - The new method uses bottomless boxes placed aboveground. We show you how to build your own (with step-by-step photos).

7)????? New Aisles - The ideal gardening aisle width is about three to four feet. That makes it even easier to kneel, work, and harvest.

8)????? New Grids - Prominent and permanent grids added to your SFG box help you visualize the planting squares and know how to space for maximum harvest.

9)????? New Seed Saving Idea - The old-fashioned way advocates planting many seeds and then thinning the extras (that means pulling them up). The new method means planting a pinch- literally two or three seeds--per planting hole.

10)? Tabletop Gardens - The new boxes are so much smaller and lighter (only 6 inches of soil, remember?), you can add a plywood bottom to make them portable.

Of course, that's not all. We've also included simple, easy-to-follow instructions using lots of photos and illustrations. You're going to love it!

Product Details

Amazon Sales Rank: #722 in Books
Published on: 2006-02-01
Original language: English
Number of items: 1
Binding: Paperback
271 pages

Features

ISBN13: 9781591862024
Condition: NEW
Notes: Brand New from Publisher. No Remainder Mark.
Click here to view our Condition Guide and Shipping Prices

Editorial Reviews

About the Author

MEL BARTHOLOMEW, a retired businessman and engineer, found the answer to the frustrations of most gardeners with his square foot gardening method, which has received worldwide acclaim. He also created the non-profit Square Foot Gardening Foundation to promote easy gardening methods for people around the world. He lives in Utah.

Customer Reviews

Mel and his squares work!
By a happy accident, I stumbled upon the 1982 copy of Square Foot Gardening. I was very pleased with his concept. However, having a full acre but not a tiller, I was even more pleased when I came across his All New Square Foot Gardening. "What an ingenious method!" thought I. No $50 fee for a tiller and borrowing a truck and all that mess! That's until I tried to actually put it into practice. Don't get me wrong, this is a fantastic concept, and it works very well and you should get this book if you want to garden smarter not harder, but there are a few hiccups I wanted other readers to know about before they got started.

For those of you who have not perused the book or are familiar with the new method, I'll sum it up for you: you build these four by four boxes--no tilling required--cover the bottom with weed blocker material, and then fill it with a particular mix that Mel says works like a dream. The boxes are easy, the method is brilliant, but the mix was a different story. 1/3 compost, 1/3 peat moss, and 1/3 vermiculite, agricultural gauge, which means chunky bits of vermiculite, not fine.

Everything was going smoothly until we tried to find vermiculite. We checked all the Home Depot type megastores, the little stores, gardening supply, everything he says to do in the book, to no avail. When we did find it at a pool supply company, we were informed we would have to pay $125 shipping to get it here from Atlanta. Online did not prove much better because we are growing a garden to save money, not spend more.

Finally, we had to settle for the fine stuff from a pool supply company which was pretty fine grade, but made the most luxurious and easy to work with soil I have ever seen. It was worth the search, but here's the problem I had:

Now Mel addresses the vermiculite availbility on his website, saying that it is now available in Utah, with no shipping. Utah, huh? No problem! Except we live in Memphis. When we wrote the website explaining our trouble finding it at a reasonable cost, we did get a quick reply (to all our questions, btw) and they sent us a pre-formatted response telling us to check at the home supply mega-stores because he's never found one that didn't carry it. My question is if it's everywhere then why have the pre-formatted response? And when he addresses finding a substitute, says that yes, you can substitute perlite (which is much easier to find) but he says don't do it because it makes him sneeze, it doesn't hold moisture as well as vermiculite, and he doesn't like the way that it feels or how it makes the garden look.

Well. Aren't we a just a bit Martha. Lemme just write that check for $185 to the pool supply with the agricultural grade.

So that being said, why did I give it five stars? Because other than finding the vermiculite--which we finally did in fine grade for $28 for four boxes--I've rarely seen a more reader-friendly book! It comes complete with layout pages, very consise planting guides, even planting time tables for your area and the amount of time you can store your seeds! If you have never gardened before or started a garden that eventually left you frustrated, then this is the book for you! I just think that you should check your area for agricultural grade vermiculite before you buy the book. But once that little snafu is over, you are going to be amazed at how brilliant and easy this book makes successful gardening.

I highly recommend this method for busy people and parents like myself. It is wonderfully easy to maintain, makes loads of produce, and looks very attractive. Two green thumbs way, way up.

To see my boxes and my experience with the All New Square Foot Gardening method, check out my frugal/tipping blog at http://moness.typepad.com.

A great method for any gardener with any garden size
I rarely buy books, to be honest--it's a matter of money + space - great library = few purchases. However, I have bought several copies of this book because this method is superb: it's neat, it's clean, it's extremely--and I mean extremely--easy to manage. This is--by far--the easiest, best-laid out, user-friendly books I have EVER seen, complete with charts, pictures of each step--you name it. And personally, as a frugalholic, I love a book where someone who doesn't have to worry about cost remembers that other people do--Mel writes this for the frugal at heart complete with LOTS of money-saving tips!!! This book is SO thoughtful it even carries a plan for rooftop gardening and handicap accessibility! It is well worth your money even if you choose another method like lasanga or traditional rows (but why??? My goodness--never again!!!)

It calls for you to--basically--container garden in a four by four foot space and unlike the original square foot method, you do NOT have to til.

Repeat: no tilling. That should cause you to one-click right there. You use a specially made soil called "Mel's Mix". Wonderful stuff. It calls for 1/3 compost, 1/3 peat moss, and 1/3 agricultural grade vermiculite in these very easy to construct 4 x 4 boxes, which are easy to cover, protect, and even make into mini-greenhouses if the need arrises.

The one little caution I want to give is please be aware that the vermiculite is not as easy to find as the author seems to think it is and check in your area before making any real plans. I wound up buying a fine grade from a pool supply company, and then after the fact was informed by an older gardener that I should have looked at the co-op. Start there first, and make sure you always ask if it's agricultural grade. The fine works great for us, but the large pieces will break down over time and work at greater efficiency longer. And remember, you're looking for 40 pound bags, not the little $3 numbers at the home improvement store--that will break the bank before you get the first plant in and the author--again to his credit--recommends avoiding this costly route.

Be sure and stop by the website, squarefootgardening.com for a great in-depth view of the method--it's a great site and includes a gardening plan for home-schooled children. Mel is a friendly author and one truly gets the impression that he is doing this because he loves it and the advantages this type of gardening can give the average joe (who usually has planting fever in the spring and burns out by the summer) and not because it sells gardening books. You would be well-advised to purchase this book--it'll change your view of gardening forever--in a good way.

I have recieved several questions on my blog about purchasing this book, all of which are answered at moness.blogspot.com, all of which were posted in March of 2006, and I include our progress as well. One of which is no--don't buy the old book at a cheaper price. They are apples and oranges, and after having read both, this is far and away the best way to go.

Did I mention no tilling?

Great book, but a few drawbacks...
I've square-foot gardened for a number of years (mostly following the statutes of Mel's original book), and last season, upon moving to a new house, I made raised beds based on Mel's all-new method in this book. My thoughts almost exactly match those of reviewer S. L. Hutchison in his May 19, 2006 Amazon user review of this book entitled "Great concept but keep in mind..." It's a review worth reading.

The two things I would add to Hitchison's review are:
1. In many ways this "All New" book lacks a lot of the scope and detail of the original book. The old book seemed a bit more balanced and complete in the range of specific plants discussed, for instance. While I now follow the "rules" of this new book, I occasionally refer back to the old book for specific plant info, etc., not included in the new book. If you can buy a cheap used copy of the original book along with this new one, I don't think you'll regret it.
2. The editing on this new book was lacking. Some of the information is redundant, and some information in the planting charts is obviously incorrect--information "copied and pasted" into the wrong plant's section, etc. Nothing that will ruin your garden, but enough to leave me feeling cautious about the info. in the book as I read onward.

All in all, I like Mel's improvements to square-foot gardening, and I'm very glad he has written this book.

Earthway 1001-B Precision Garden Seeder with 6 Seed Plates From Earthway

2009-12-11T09:04:00.000-08:00

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Product Details

Earthway 1001-B Precision Garden Seeder with 6 Seed Plates
From Earthway

List Price:	$119.99
Price:	$89.55 & eligible for FREE Super Saver Shipping on orders over $25. Details

Availability: Usually ships in 24 hours
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31 new or used available from $84.00

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Product Details

Amazon Sales Rank: #632 in Home Improvement
Brand: EarthWay
Model: 1001-B
Number of items: 1
Dimensions: 7.88" h x 7.52" w x 27.31" l, 22.50 pounds

Features

Garden seeder designed for easy, efficient, effective planting
Automatically spaces seeds at ideal intervals
Tough, weather-resistant construction; assembly required
Includes 6 seed plates
Available seed plates for separate purchase

Editorial Reviews

Amazon.com Product Description
The Earthway Precision garden seeder provides a more efficient way to seed large vegetable gardens and flower beds The seeder comes with six standard seed plates for seeding sweet corn, bean, peas, carrots, beets, and radishes: install the appropriate plate, and it will automatically space seeds at the ideal length. It also opens, closes, and packs the soil, and even marks the next row ahead of time. The seeder is made from tough, weather-resistant materials for years of trouble-free operation. Assembly is required. Additional seed plates are available for purchase separately.

Amazon.com Review
If you're looking for a more efficient way to seed a large vegetable garden or flower bed, consider the Precision Garden Seeder from Earthway Products. The seeder comes with six standard seed plates: install the appropriate plate, and it will automatically space seeds at the ideal length. It also opens, closes, and packs the soil, and even marks the next row ahead of time. Note: assembly is not for the faint of heart and requires at least 20 minutes with a few basic tools to complete.

Customer Reviews

Almost more of a specialty tool
While this is a good tool on the whole -- and not too expensive either -- it still isn't for every gardener nor for every purpose in the garden. To remove all doubt, perhaps it should not go without saying that this is not a tool for making hills for melons, squash, or zukes. It will not help you with transplants such as tomatoes, nor will it handle seed potatoes. No, this seeder is for rows of things like beans and corn, and in these cases it shines. I still think, however, that you have to be planting a pretty big garden to make it worth your time to set-up the Earthway seeder, learn to use it, store it, and maintain it.

On the pro side, for instance, I used my new Earthway seeder to plant more than 700 row-feet of popcorn. Wow! The Earthway seeder practically paid for itself that day, since it allowed me to plant the entire plot in less than 45 minutes and with no bending over! I also used it to plant plots of field corn, beans, and beets.

Here are my notes, for what they're worth:

1.) Have freshly tilled, fine, debris-free soil. It is difficult to push the seeder through crusted soil or anything with too many lumps in it, and you won't get those perfectly straight rows if you're struggling just to move forward. Also, too much surface trash will be a problem for the little chain that drags behind and covers the seed. Hint: do "dry runs" with the seeder at the proper depth, but without seed in the bin. This will give you a sense of how well it's going to work before you commit your seed, and it helps to mark your rows in advance too.

2.) Have enough seed, and watch the seed plate closely as it turns. If the seed bin gets low, the pockets in the seed plates will often fail to scoop up the seeds in a regular fashion. You'll end up with a lot of skips. Of course, if you're not buying your seed at least ¼ pound at a time, I'm not sure why you'd want this tool anyhow.

3.) Select your seed plate carefully, and if needed test it with the seed before use. (Attach a plastic bag under the seeder or something.) For example, I had a limited quantity of small soup beans. I popped in the bean plate and made two rows. Before the end of the second row, however, I was out of seed, which should not have been the case. I didn't figure this out till after the seeds sprouted: that seed plate scooped up those small beans two at a time and double-planted the first row, leaving insufficient seed for the second row.

4.) If you are considering the Fert-A-Ply attachment for the seeder, re-think that. I did not realize till the attachment arrived that I could not use it at the same time as I planted -- meaning that it took re-configuring the seeder and another full set of passes to apply an amendment to my rows. Also, the construction and the few moving parts of the attachment are extremely chintzy. I could not get mine adjusted well and used quite a bit more expensive material than I intended.

5.) The assumption for the Earthway seeder is that your seed is dry. If you like to soak your seeds before planting, or if you want to wet-innoculate things like green beans before planting, I don't think this is the tool for those cases.

6.) I have not tried the seeder with pelleted seeds of any kind, but I bet it would work well for that. Again, pick your seed plate carefully.

7.) Of course, straight rows are an advantage for mechanized cultivation equipment in your garden or even for zipping through the rows with a wheel hoe or high-wheel cultivator. Even if you're not obsessive about straight rows, however, this seeder still can be a time- and back-saver.

I hope this helps you to make a more informed choice.

Not What I Expected
I have a fairly big garden, so I decided to make my life a little easier next spring, and thus I bought this seeder. However, so far, it's not what I thought I would be getting as far as a truly precision planter is concerned. The seeds dropped irratically and/or popped out of the bin because the plates would bind up then suddenly spring loose. I used different sized plates trying to find that exact match with the same results. I contacted the factory by email (their response was very quick) and was told to use bee's wax and soap to make it work correctly. For the price of the unit, I expected something with less "after-market engineering" required by me to make it funtion as advertised. I refuse to admit defeat, so I'm keeping it and will continue to practice with it until spring. If it or I don't get better, I know where you can get a used one cheap next summer!

Too awesome for words!
First of all, I'm a gardener from way back. I helped my mom weed her flowers when I was still in the womb. I love garden gadgets and all things bliss-enhancing. When I was a teenager my grandfather bought the first incarnation of the Earthway Precision Garden Seeder and it was love at first shove. Not only does it plow the furrow, it plants the seeds at a precise depth and covers them up, it also marks the next row for you so that your garden doesn't sprout into a psychadelic homage to 1970's acid waves. I love, love, love this little jigger! It clogs from time to time, but if you're watching every perfect little seed get tucked away neatly into it's new earthly bed, you'll catch it before you have to re-plant the entire garden. What took my father and me 2 hours last year to do by hand, we did in under 15 mintues using this little gem. An entire garden planted in 15 minutes! And not only that, but we hand-sowed a 1/4 acre plot of corn in under 25 mintues, stopping to pass off and admire the absolute fantastical spectacle of it all as it was happening. LOVE this thing!

Gardening Guide - Tips to Growing Backyard Green Beans

2009-08-21T11:04:00.000-07:00

Gardening Guide - Tips to Growing Backyard Green Beans
By Ken Miller

One of my greatest joys in life is walking into the garden and picking a bucketful of beautiful, fresh

green beans. Then taking them directly to a pot of boiling water in the kitchen. Nothing like it.
Three days later, I can do it again. And so can you with these tips.

First, you need to decide what to plant. The two main choices are bush beans or pole beans. I prefer
pole beans because they are easier to pick, have better flavor and have less problems from pests and
disease.

Pole beans, of course, require something to climb on and, therefore, tend to take up space.
But, if you think limited space prevents you from having pole beans, guess again. You can have enough beans
for a family of four in a six square foot area.

A method I use is to take three six foot long wooden poles (don't use metal) and place them in a tripod
arrangement, tying them together at the top. It only takes about a three foot area, so you can have
two of them in a six foot plot.

Plant the beans indoors 4-6 weeks before the last frost, in peat pots. Do not use pots that require
you to remove the plant from the pot to transplant. The peat pots can be planted directly in the garden
without disturbing the roots.

Prepare the soil by adding compost (I prefer well-aged manure) as soon as you can work the soil
in the spring. Most important!!! Plant your beans in a spot that gets at least 6-8 hours of direct
sun each day. Beans love the sun.

As the beans send out long shoots, train them to climb the poles if they do not do it own their own
(generally, they will). Keep them watered but not soaked. Fertilize once when the plants start
climbing the poles.

There are many varieties that thrive in practically any summer climate, as long as you have
about six weeks of over 70 degree days. I like the "bluelake" for it's ease of growth, good
flavor and high yield.

So, give it a try this year. Then when you smell those fresh beans that you grew, cooking in the kitchen,
you, too, will experience one of the great joys of life.

Find Peace And Happiness Through Gardening

2009-08-19T11:15:00.000-07:00

Find Peace And Happiness Through Gardening
By Susan Jan

Gardening is a wonderful and relaxing hobby enjoyed by many all over the world. People who enjoy gardening often feel a deep-rooted sense of calm and tranquility, and they also forge a stronger connection with nature.

There are many types and forms of gardening. Organic gardening is a unique method of gardening and allows the gardener to really bond with Mother Nature. Organic gardening really gets down to the basics of growing fruits and vegetables, using only what Mother Nature provides. Container gardening is another way of gardening and allows many people who do not have their own garden to still enjoy gardening using pots and containers.

Container gardening is a great way to decorate and accentuate your house and your outdoor area. Plant containers such as clay urns, metal pans, terra cotta pots, wine tubs, wood boxes, bath tubs, glass bowls, wire baskets, sisal rope planters, cement hollows etc. all work well. You want to be sure to have an assortment of beautiful flowers and plants of varying heights as well as shapes and textures when planning your garden.

Organic gardening requires much more attention and involvement in the whole process. When you grow the plants organically, you do not add any artificial or chemical substances to the soil to avoid their negative health consequences. In organic gardening natural compost is needed to fertilize the soil. Natural compost is derived from plant, fruit or kitchen waste and contains no harmful chemical pesticides in it.

Whether you go for container gardening or organic gardening, the preparation and gardening methods are pretty similar. After you decide on what type of gardening you want to do, prepare your spot and soil for planting. You must remove all weeds, grass, stones, etc using various gardening supplies or herbicides. When this is completed, you can plow the planting area and add nutrients such as manure, compost, peat or sand to the soil. If your soil is too sandy, you will need to add compost to give it the necessary nutrients it needs.

Gardening supplies are essential for good gardening. They make gardening easy, and there are certain gardening supplies that gardeners find indispensable, including gloves, spade, scissors, pruners, levelers etc. Make sure to buy good quality gardening supplies for ease of use, such as gardening gloves made of high quality leather, and gardening spades or pruners made of stainless steel.

To learn more about Gardening, visit Susan's sites at love-gardening.info, gardening-club.info and gardening-fun.info.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Susan_Jan

Organic Gardening - Reasons Pepper Plants Can Turn Yellow

2009-08-19T07:23:00.001-07:00

Organic Gardening - Reasons Pepper Plants Can Turn Yellow
By John Yazo

One of the most common problems that the home gardener have with their pepper plants is the yellowing of their leaves. This can be caused by a few different reasons. The first is the lack of nitrogen and magnesium, another reason is chlorinated water, soil splash on the lower leaves from watering and a fungal problem.

The first reason, the yellowing of leaves is most of the times caused by a lack of nitrogen and magnesium in the garden's soil. This can be simply a result of the nutrients being leeched from the soil due to excess water. Pepper plants only need 1" of water per week. Another reason is the plants may need an application of fertilizer that is high in nitrogen to get past this problem.

Normally you wouldn't want to give pepper or tomatoes a high dose of nitrogen, it will usually result in lush foliage and not a strong harvest. You need to get the plants healthy again, so if they need a dose of nitrogen do it sparingly.

Another thing that works for me is to apply an epsom salt spray to my pepper plants. Epsom salt will supply magnesium and calcium that can be absorbed by the leaves for a quick recovery. You may want to try this foliar spray. I mix 3 tablespoons of epsom salt to one gallon of water and spray the foliage.Then I apply a slow release organic fertilizer that is high in nitrogen to the soil around the plant. At this time I remove any flower buds so the plants can solely concentrate their energy on there foliage. There is still plenty of time for a productive harvest.

If chlorine is the problem, you can simply rid the water of chlorine by just running the water into a bucket and letting the bucket stand for a few hours to allow the chlorine to evaporate.

Lower leaves that turn yellow on your pepper plants can be simply caused from soil splash when watering. They will yellow and wilt. Remove these yellow leaves and your plants should do just fine.

A environment friendly and healthy way of gardening. Organic Gardening is away of gardening in harmony with nature. Growing a healthy and productive crop in a way that is healthier for both you and the environment.

John Yazo

http://www.organicheirloomgardening.com

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=John_Yazo

How to Get Rid of Garden Ants

2009-08-19T07:22:00.000-07:00

How to Get Rid of Garden Ants
By C. Andrew Smith

The common Garden or Black Ant (Lasius niger) can be a persistent nuisance for many, especially through the summer months. This species of ant does not bite or sting and is not associated with spreading pathogens. Therefore, having Garden Ants in your home will not present a risk to your health.

Garden Ants live in colonies or "nests". Each nest will have a Queen and several hundred workers. Large nests may have workers numbering into the thousands. The Queen is approximately 15mm in length and her sole purpose is to lay eggs. The workers are typically 4-5mm in length and their tasks are building/maintaining the nest and gathering food. It is their desire for sweet/sugary foods that bring these ants into contact with humans.

Worker ants will leave the nest each day to forage for food. When they find a suitable food source, the worker will return to the nest leaving a scent (pheromone) trail by tapping its abdomen on whatever surface it is travelling upon. Other workers will pick up on this scent trail and before long, you will have a constant stream of ants travelling between the nest and the food source.

Garden Ants like to build their nests in well-drained soil, typically with a high sand content. This explains why paved gardens are prone to Garden Ant activity. They can be quite intuitive and take advantage of other nesting places such as rotten timber, brickwork (tunnelling into mortar) and even in large plant pots. Keep an open mind when searching for the nest!

Flying Ants

During mid to late summer, newly hatched queen and drone (male) ants will leave the nest en-mass. These ants are winged and are commonly called "Flying Ants". Theses ants will mate whilst flying - show offs! And shortly afterwards the males will die, the queens will return to earth, shed their wings and look for a suitable place to start a new nest.

Eradicating ants from your garden can be a thankless task and, if they are not entering your home and causing a nuisance, are best left alone. If they are causing a nuisance, your first plan of action should be to try and locate the nests. It is quite common to have more than one nest in the average garden. Look for sandy deposits in cracks and gaps amongst any paving. Nest entrances look like mini volcanoes of sand with a small hole in the centre. There are likely to be several entrance holes for one nest. Check under plant pots, around the base of your walls and beneath any long-standing garden junk (old pieces of timber, planks, bags of waste/cuttings, etc). If you have a stream of ants marching to and from your kitchen, try and follow them (keep in step) to reveal where their nest is.

Treating With Insecticide

If you find the nest the best way of destroying it is to flood it with a water-based insecticide. Insecticide availability will vary from country to country. Your local Garden Centre or DIY retailer should be able to advise you which products are suitable.

Using a low-pressure sprayer, like those used for applying weed killer, place the sprayer nozzle directly into the nest entrance hole and apply the spray. Be careful not to over-pressurize your sprayer. You just need a gentle flow of liquid and gravity will ensure the insecticide reaches the bottom of the nest. Too much pressure and you risk "blast-back" as the spray rebounds off the ground to drench your face. Make sure you are wearing the correct protective equipment indicated on the product label, usually a mask, goggles and gloves. You should see that the nest has been flooded when the insecticide starts to bubble out of the other entrance holes. Bare in mind that the nest can have many chambers and tunnels underground so wait for a few seconds and apply the spray again to make sure that as much of the nest as possible is flooded by the insecticide. Surface spraying in the garden is not advised as the insecticide is not discriminating in its action and will kill any insect that comes into contact with it. The insecticide will also be broken down at the molecular level by sunlight UV and rainwater and so will have no long lasting effect.

If you cannot locate any nest, the only option available to you is to create a barrier along your building perimeter to deter the ants from entering. You can use the same water-based insecticide for this, or you can use an insecticide powder. The powders have a much longer life than the sprays but are unsightly and rather messy. Both the insecticide spray and powder will kill any ants that come into contact with them but the powders also create a physical barrier and most ants will detect the powder and choose not to cross it. To create your barrier, look for any possible entry points in your home, these could be under doors, around pipes, cracks in window frames/skirting and through ventilation bricks. Apply your insecticide (powder or spray) on the inside and outside at each point. Be aware that the external barrier will need to be replenished after any rain. If you are using a powder, try not to go over the top and just use a light dusting, as there will come a time when you will want to remove it.

Ant control can be an ongoing problem principally because they nest outdoors and any treatment is liable to be neutralized by adverse weather. With this in mind, be sure to check your local weather forecast before you start your treatment.

The author has spent over 15 years working in the Pest Control industry. For more about pest control at home please visit http://www.PestControl-At-Home.com

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=C._Andrew_Smith

How to Make a Hydroponic System - The Secret to Making an Excellent and Simple System

2009-08-19T07:21:00.001-07:00

How to Make a Hydroponic System - The Secret to Making an Excellent and Simple System
By Floyd Reynard

Learning how to make a hydroponic system is great. You are building a very powerful system that is able to grow plants better and faster than any other method we know of.

This article will show you how to build a wick hydroponic system. This is a simple system but can very effective. It works by using a fabric wick to soak up water and nutrients from a reservoir below. It is so good that you can leave it unattended for a few days at a time with no issues.

Below are the steps to show you how to make a hydroponic system;

For this system, use two containers, One larger (the water reservoir) and one smaller one (the container which holds the plant). The idea is to have the smaller container wedged into the larger container without touching the bottom of the larger container.

What sort of larger container should you use?

Use a bucket which has straight sides. Paint it black on the inside, to prevent algae from growing.

What sort of smaller container should you use?

Use a normal plastic plant pot, that is tapered (i.e. make sure that it is wider at the top than the bottom). Most plant pots fit this description. Ensure that the top of this container is wider than the top of the larger container.

Also make sure, that the bottom of the smaller container, is narrower than the top of the larger container. This container should slide inside the larger container, but not all the way. It should also not touch the bottom of the large container.

What do you do next?

Drill a hole in the bottom of the smaller container. Through this, thread a large cotton wick. You can use some thick cord from the hardware. Use a cord which is about half an inch thick.

Make sure it is long enough, to go from the water reservoir at the bottom, to halfway into the smaller container. The smaller container is where the plant and growing medium will be. The wick will constantly carry water and nutrients to the plant.

Also drill a hole in the side of the larger container just below where the small container sits. This will allow for any excess liquid, to drain out of the side of the larger container, and not flood the smaller container.

Fill the smaller container with a combination of Perlite and Vermiculite, ensuring that the wick goes well into the mixture. Your hydroponic system is now set up and ready for planting. Carefully wash any soil from the roots of the plant which you are going to use. Carefully plant it into its new home.

Now all you need to do is water your new plant with an appropriate nutrient solution. Make sure you water it enough, so that the water reservoir at the bottom fills up. All you need to do now is to check that the reservoir at the bottom does not run completely dry.

Whenever it is nearly empty, water it again to fill it up. In hot weather, this may be every few days, and in cool weather it may be every couple of weeks. That's all there is to setting up a hydroponic wick system.

Do you want to learn even more about hydroponics?

Hydroponics is constantly evolving. The more knowledge you have the more successful you will be. To really get great advice, on how to make a hydroponic system, read and watch hydroponic secrets. This is a key guide which will make you very successful, very quickly.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Floyd_Reynard

Beginner Organic Gardening

2009-08-19T07:19:00.000-07:00

Beginner Organic Gardening
By Amy Cohen

There are many reasons to learn beginner organic gardening. Creating an organic garden is simple and easy and does not require as much work as you would think. A little know-how goes a long way.

As an Organic Gardener myself, I hope these tips will help you create your own organic garden.

The first thing is to choose a location for your vegetable garden. Choose a location that receives the most sun through out the day. Plants love the sun. Determine where the sun rises and sets so you can choose where to plant accordingly to size so that no plant shades another.

There are different types of beds you may want to create such as a raised bed or create a border. Till your soil with organic soil conditioner or organic soil to create the best possible soil for your vegetables to thrive.

After you decide on the location and size, it's time to choose what vegetables you want to plant now that you are learning beginner organic gardening. Depending on your location and size choose your plants accordingly and what you will consume.

I made the mistake of planting too many different plants for the space I had. I had cucumber and watermelon vines all over, even up my deck. Squash plants grow huge and produce lots of squash! Remember your plants will grow so plant your seedlings taking into consideration that they will get bigger. I had so many vegetables I was giving away tomatoes, eggplant and squash to my neighbors.

For smaller beds, you can plant taller plants such as tomatoes, string beans and eggplants. You can even use a planter for your tomatoes or even the new topsy turvy hangers.

After you have planted your seedlings, we are so excited to watch our organic vegetable grow. It's very rewarding to see the fruits of our labor flourish. I checked my garden every day with growing excitement and beamed with pride at each new flower that would eventually become a vegetable.

Water your organic garden every day. I water in the morning, works for me and prevents fungus. If your plants are in a planter, they tend to dry out quicker, so keep a sharp eye on them.

Every garden especially a vegetable garden tends to get some pests, such as slugs and beetles, use natural and organic pesticides for your garden.

Amy Cohen is an organic garden who loves to share her tips and tricks about organic gardening. "There is nothing better than getting your hands in the soil and watching your plants grow!!! Getting a fresh organic tomato off the vine, doesn't get any better than that!!!"

Don't miss more tips and techniques...go Beginner Organic Gardening

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Amy_Cohen

How to Build a Raised Garden Bed

2009-08-13T10:06:00.000-07:00

How to Build a Raised Garden Bed
By Joanne Jones

Raised garden beds are an excellent way to add beauty, interest and practicality to your yard. They look wonderful, but only if they are done properly. The main key to remember is to build a stable, solid foundation that is always level. It's a lot of work, but not difficult if you know what to do. Here are the steps you need to follow to create your very own raised garden bed.

Buy the bricks that you will be using. Bricks come in different sizes and shapes. If you want a square or rectangle garden bed, you can buy square bricks. However, if you would like the garden bed to have curves in the wall, then you will need to buy bricks that are trapezoid shaped - that is they have one side that is longer than the other.

Next, choose a spot in your yard where you would like to create a raised garden bed. Then, lay out the bricks on the grass to determine the shape of your garden bed. Your goal here is to come up with a design that you like and to determine the number of bricks you will need for your project. Remember to do all four sides of the garden bed. Once you have a design you like, then use a marker to number the bricks. Place the number on the top of the brick. For example, if you have 30 bricks, number them 1/30, 2/30, etc. This marker will be permanent, but since the bricks will be covered it doesn't matter.

You are now ready to remove the grass below the bricks. Use an edger and go around the edge of the bricks on both sides. Push the edger deep enough in the ground to cut the grass so that it will be easy to remove. Once you have gone around all the bricks, you can remove them and place them to the side. Remove the grass - start with where the bricks were placed. Once that grass has been removed, you can dig down a few inches. Then remove the remaining grass.

Once all the grass has been removed, you are ready to prepare the foundation for the bricks. The bricks must sit on at least two inches of screening and must be two inches below the ground from the lowest point of the garden. This last point is very important, as most yards will have a slight slope to them, however, you do not want your garden bed to have a slope. It must be level; otherwise it will not be stable or attractive looking.

What is Safe to Use For Mulch Or Compost in a Vegetable Garden?

2009-08-13T10:05:00.000-07:00

What is Safe to Use For Mulch Or Compost in a Vegetable Garden?
By Francis King

As a gardening enthusiast, you should know the importance of mulch. Mulch is spread on top of the soil close to the plants or vegetables to prevent the soil drying up, erosion and the growth of weeds. Mulch can be made up of a variety of materials such as wood chips, sawdust, straw, dried leaves, twigs etc. Actually, whatever you use to make compost can generally be used as mulch. But the difference between mulch and compost is that mulch is spread on top of the soil whereas compost is better worked into the soil by digging because compost is your vegetables' natural fertilizer. So for mulch, just spread them on top of the soil close to the vegetables and dampen them with water.

Almost all plant residue (pruning, cuttings, fallen leaves etc) can be used as mulch. But when it comes to Oleander, you need to be careful. The Oleander is an evergreen plant that can grow to heights of between 6 to 12 feet and up to 20 feet wide. It flowers between summer and early fall. The size of the flower is about 1 ½ inches in diameter. They can have single or double petals with colors like white, red, pink, rose, salmon or magenta. Found mainly in South Asia and the Mediterranean, every part of the Oleander is poisonous especially its milky sap. In fact, eating only a few leaves can kill a small child. The plant's leaves are also coated with a certain kind of dust which can make you sick if you were to breathe it into your lungs or have contact with it on your skin. The dust is especially abundant in summer when it's dry and hot. So if you want to prune or cut an Oleander plant, do so after a heavy rain. Also, protect yourself with gloves so as not to come into contact with the sap. So can the Oleander be used as mulch or compost?

Research shows that when Oleander is added into the compost heap, its toxin known as oleandrin depletes after 50 days. So when the compost is added to the soil, it does not harm the vegetables. Studies with lettuce (which are quick blooming vegetables) and tomatoes (which are slow in getting ripe for harvest) both do not detect Oleander's toxic substances in them. But using Oleander as mulch is riskier because the Oleander parts are not as decomposed as in compost. Hence it is better to be safe than sorry. If you wish to use Oleander as mulch, use them on ornamental plants (like flowers) but not vegetables.

If you do add Oleander into your compost, leave the compost to mature beyond 50 days and make sure every part of the plant is decomposed and no longer visible in its original form before using the compost. Even then, always thoroughly wash the vegetables before cooking and eating them. This is a good practice anyway.
Taking these necessary precautions, you may use Oleander as mulch or compost.

How to Plant a New Garden

2009-08-13T10:04:00.000-07:00

How to Plant a New Garden
By Douglas Hill

When gardening, before anything is planted, it is highly recommended that the soil is prepared properly. To learn more about this go to my article Soil Prep For Your New Garden for more info on this area.

There are two ways you can plant your garden, from transplants or seeds.

There are a few decisions you will need to make before buying your seeds. First you should take a good look at your garden and be realistic with the amount you can plant. It is better to have more plants and little variety than lots of variety and not enough room to grow a substantial amount of anything. For new gardeners, choosing your seeds will be a little difficult as well. You want to strike a balance between their ability to tolerate disease, the amount of time you have daily to put into your garden, and the time of the season they will mature.

There are numerous places to buy seeds. You can go to a nursery, gardening centers, online, or from mail order catalogue. I would recommend you buy new seeds every year to avoid poor germination the next season. You also do not want to save seeds from your harvest to plant next year. I know that it sounds like a nice sustainable way to produce a good harvest year after year but the problem lies with the fact that we plant more than one vegetable in our garden at a time. The plants that would grow from seeds from last year's harvest will be hybrids of the plants they are supposed to be, due to cross pollination with other plants in your garden. Another thing to remember is that seeds can transmit disease from one year to the next so save yourself a lot of work and aggravation and just buy new seeds every year. One last thing to remember about handling your seeds is that they are chemically sprayed to kill off any disease that may be on or in the seed. This practice also helps prevent the seeds from rotting before you can get them in the ground. So always remember to wash your hands when you are done.

Now it is time to plant your new seeds. There are two methods you can employ; you can sow your seeds by scattering them or planting them in furrows. I would recommend you take the time to plant them properly in furrows so you can regulate the amount of seeds you plant in every square foot of your garden. When planting, try to shoot for a depth of not more than three times the seeds thickness. If you plant too deep the seed may germinate and be too deep to make it to the surface and if too shallow it may be washed away by rain or watering or it may be blown away by the wind. After you add a little bit of mulch on top of your seed row to help you conserve moisture all you have to do is watch and wait.

If you decide to go with the transplant route there are a few more points I want to make to ensue your transplants take. First you need to "harden" your plants. It doesn't matter if you choose to buy them or grow them yourself you must acclimatise your new plants to the outdoors. I recommend you keep your plants in a shady, dry, and windproof location outdoors for 8-10 days before planting. Over the course of this time you should gradually increase their exposure to the sunlight so they can get used to the warmth of the sun. Also to note, during the hardening period you should allow your plants to dry out a little between watering. The hardening period will help your young plants get used to the harsher conditions when growing outdoors than inside a garden center or your home. The day before planting give them a good watering to help them

Them main goal of transplanting is to not disturb the roots too much. It is nice when you can buy your transplants if biodegradable peat pots because you can just plant them into the soil, pot and all. The only recommendation is for you to make sure you completely bury the pot because it can wick out the water from around the plant. If in a non biodegradable pot then you should carefully take the plant out of the pot and gently tease the roots free from the big ball that they have probably become. Plant immediately and only do one plant at a time. Do not take them all out of their pots and then try to plant them.

Once you plant your new plants they may need protection from direct sunlight or frost (depending on the season you plant in). If you are concerned about the sun then lay a wood board down, leaned up so it creates a sun shade. If the possibility of frost is the problem then drape plastic over you plants to avoid getting frost on them. If you use plastic make sure to put small holes in it to allow the plant to breath during the day. You could burn your plants instead of save them.

Companion Planting For Your Vegetable Garden

2009-08-13T10:03:00.001-07:00

Companion Planting For Your Vegetable Garden
By Julie Sedwick

Companion planting is the method of growing together different plants for a healthy coexistence. Plants benefit by not getting affected by pests and diseases. Basically, this type of planting stimulates the growth of all the plants. Planting the nasturtiums with brassicas, peas and beans is fantastic as it attracts the greenfly away. Companion planting is natural and minimizes the use of sprays and other chemical fertilizers. With certain trial and error you can form a good plan. In your vegetable garden it is extremely useful if you have to increase the yield. The accurate amalgamation of vegetables in planting will enhance growth, lessen diseases and promote the beneficial insects to prosper in the garden.

Planting herbs along with the vegetables also deters the pests due to strong smelling nature of herbs. For example putting rosemary with beans will ward-of the weevils from beans. Similarly putting rosemary, sage, thyme and mint with cabbage prevent the attack of cabbage moths. If you decide to use basil, you will benefit a lot. Basil keeps the flies away from potatoes. Planting chives will deter aphids, mint will prevent ants, garlic shields the potatoes from blight and horseradish will prevent the spud from beetles.

Companion planting vegetables assists in keeping the pests away from other vegetables. For example Rhubarb protects beans from blackfly and leeks prevent carrot fly coming near carrots. Other popular categories of this type of planting are: celery that keeps moths away from cabbage and tomatoes help asparagus by keeping away the beetles. Some vegetables are selective in choosing to live with other vegetables. So you have to be careful in planting these.

Asparagus is very common in this type of planting as it goes well with most vegetables. However, planting asparagus with tomato, parsley and basil is perfect for the whole group. Bush beans are ideal for planting with potatoes, cucumber, corn, celery and strawberries. However, don't think of planting the bush beans with onions. The two stunt each other's growth. In this type of planting, lettuce protects radishes and onions protect beetroot. Planting the cabbage family, (broccoli, Brussels sprouts, cauliflower and kale) along with beet, celery, cucumber, lettuce, onion, potatoes and spinach is extremely beneficial. But planting the cabbage family with dill, strawberries, pole beans and tomatoes will have adverse effects. Carrots are great for planting with a wide variety of vegetables like peas, celery, cucumber, lettuce, rosemary, onions and sage; but they should not be grown with dill.

Celery happens to be the friendliest vegetable. It goes well with almost all the vegetables but has a special liking for asparagus. Similarly planting lettuce with carrots, cucumber and strawberries creates good produce. On the other hand corn will rebel against tomatoes, but will love to grow with potatoes, beans, peas and pumpkin.

There are various flowering plants which can be used in planting with vegetables. Zinnias prevent pest attack if used; it is planted with cucumbers, melons and marrows. Planting marigolds with beans helps in protection of beans.

The list of plants used in companion planting is long and some are:

Borage can be used for planting with tomatoes and strawberries. It magnetizes bees and wasps and also adds useful minerals to the soil.

Catnip keeps away the beetles, ants and mice, and has a sweet fragrance.

Chives further the zest and development of carrots and tomatoes. It prevents scab if planted with apple trees.

Planting coriander with some vegetables repels aphids, spider mites and potato beetle.

Peas helps in enriching the soil with nitrogen, which is very useful for a variety of other plants.

Parsley along with tomatoes and asparagus defend against beetles and attract hoverflies.

The menthol in mints is exercised for good usage as it repels white cabbage moths, aphids and flea beetles, but invites bees and beneficial insects.
Planting radishes with the squash plants give protection against insects which eat the fleshy vegetables.

Companion planting is the mantra for organic farming. Exercise the uses, so as to improve the production of your vegetable garden.

Organic Gardening Information

2009-08-13T10:02:00.001-07:00

Organic Gardening Information
By Ian Pennington

When you plan your garden it is best to get some organic gardening information. This would guide you to make the best choice of plants and give you all the information that is needed. When looking out for organic gardening information you can look into the various books that are available. You will have to follow the instructions that are mentioned. Alternatively, you can also get organic gardening information from the internet. Today, there are umpteen numbers of websites that provide valuable information on how to grow a garden well and what is the right method to do so.

Most of the organic gardening information would tell you that the first thing to do is decide where you want to set up your garden. This would depend on the kind of a place you live in. whether it is an independent house or an apartment. If an independent house then you can plan a vegetable garden close to your kitchen. This would help you to get fresh vegetables when ever you need them. In apartments you will have to check up what kind of vegetables and plants you can grow there.

Organic gardening information would also provide details of the kind of vegetables that you can grow there. The tools and equipments that is required when you get into gardening. Information about seeds and from where you can find the best quality seeds would also be provided. You can also know when your plants need manure and you will be able to identify the pests in your garden.

The advantages of organic gardening information are that you will be able to know all the necessary information. When planning a garden you would like some one to guide you with the process. This is what organic gardening information would do. You can rely on the information that is provided. What better, you can also get information about the place from where you can buy the plants that you need. What kind of plants is suitable for the temperature that you live in would be told in such guides. You will have to follow the instructions carefully to get desirable results.

If you have a problem with growing any kind of plants either because of the temperature of due to pests in the garden, then organic gardening information would provide you with the best knowledge. You would be able to identify the pests and also get rid of them. Such information is very handy. You can keep such information with you all the time; it would definitely come handy when ever you need it.

Why Coffee Grounds Are Beneficial to Plants and Gardens

2009-08-12T11:39:00.000-07:00

Why Coffee Grounds Are Beneficial to Plants and Gardens
By Steve Charles Habib

Coffee grounds have long been used as fertilizer for plants. They can be added to existing or new garden beds. The grounds will run off and keep out ants, garden snails and slugs from your gardening beds.

How coffee grounds benefits plants

Coffee grounds provide plants with many of essential nutrients including magnesium, calcium and nitrogen. Theses nutrients are very beneficial to plants and are often found in fertilizers. The grounds can add a significant amount of acidity to the soil. Blueberries, roses, and gardenias are a few plants known to love acidic soil. Using coffee grounds for other plants may prove to be harmful. Before adding the grounds to any plant research it and learn if acidic soil is preferred.

Other benefits included making the soil easier to till, which is good news if you're no longer a teenager with a strong back. Worms eat coffee grounds and are quite beneficial to have in your garden. The worms spread the nutrients as they travel through the dirt. This aerates the soil, which means more oxygen is provided to the roots. The more oxygen that reaches a plants root the better its health and growth.

How to use

There are different ways of putting coffee ground to work in your garden. For example, they may be sprinkled around the base of existing plants. With this method the plant receives a small dose of nitrogen each time it is watered. Piles of coffee grounds can be harmful to the plant, depriving it of oxygen as the grounds clump together.

You may also use them by digging them into the ground around plants. Avoid going deeper than one inch, mixing the soil and coffee carefully than watering the plant.

If you are preparing new beds for planting, use the grounds by tilling them well into the soil. Before planting, water the soil thoroughly, so the nutrients are properly released into the soil.

tomato growing - 3 things you need to know

2009-08-12T11:38:00.000-07:00

Tomato Growing - 3 Things You Need to Know
By Cris Young

There are three major issues that you should know to get the most out of your tomato plants. Growing tomatoes is easy, but a little planning ahead of time ensures that your tomatoes will be disease-free, plump, juicy and prolific. Here are three tomato growing tips to begin your gardening journey:

1. Choose the best location - Tomatoes love sun, so the location you choose should be sunny, whether it's a spot in your outdoor garden or a container on the patio. You must have a minimum of 6 hours sunlight for your tomatoes to produce their fruit.

2. Nutrients and water consumption - Your tomato plants must have the proper nutrients and the right amount of water to produce the fresh-tasting and fruit-bearing results you want. Before you plant the tomatoes, work the soil with a compost or fertilizer to create a rich venue for your seedlings. Periodically give your plants a lift with a fertilizer - used coffee grounds placed around the base of the plants will also help.

Your tomato plants are thirsty little creatures when they're growing, so it's important that you water them frequently. Don't let the soil dry out and then deluge the tomato plants with water. Consider a drip water system to ensure that the plants receive water on a timely basis. A great tip for do-it-yourself gardeners is to wash out gallon milk jugs, pierce the sides and bottom with holes, and then bury them in the soil between your tomato plants with only the top sticking out of the ground. Fill the jugs with water and they'll release it as the soil dries out, ensuring that the plants are watered deeply.

3. Stake or cage your tomato plants - Tomatoes are vines and must be kept from growing across the ground, leaving them susceptible to disease or fungus, so be sure to stake your plants early on. Some people prefer cages that you can purchase at any garden store. Staking your tomato plants while they're young will also prevent disturbing their root formation later on.

These are the three main tips to get started growing tomato plants. But, you must also be diligent in pruning dead leaves and branches and harvest the tomatoes when they're ripe and ready to eat.

If you have a problem, there's plenty of information online or in helpful books that will address some of the roadblocks you may come across when growing tomatoes. Be patient and soon you'll have the fresh, sun-ripened taste of tomatoes on your table.

Growing tomatoes isn't just fun - it's downright rewarding and delicious. When you know what your tomatoes need to grow and you are picking bucket-loads of them you will be the envy of your neighborhood.

What's Eating Your Tomatoes - A Guide to Common Pests

2009-08-12T11:36:00.000-07:00

What's Eating Your Tomatoes - A Guide to Common Pests
By Betsy Cole

You've planted your tomatoes and watched them grow. You're looking forward to the first fruits of your labor, and they may not be far away. But then one day, you go to check on your tomatoes, and something else has been nibbling on them! You have a pest problem. What is causing it, and what can you do to fix it?

My leaves are vanishing!
You may have an infestation of hornworms. Tomato hornworms are widespread throughout the US and southern Canada, and eat the leaves off of tomato plants. They tend to start at the top of the plant, so the damage is fairly obvious.

If you think you have hornworms, check the plants over carefully. Tomato hornworms are caterpillars that can grow to four inches long, but they often blend in with the plant, so look carefully. They have a distinctive spiky "horn" on the back end.

If you find hornworms, you can just pluck them off the plant and drop them in a bucket of water to kill them. Make sure to till your soil well after harvest to destroy any pupae left in the ground.

My leaves are sticky, and turning yellow!
Sticky residue on your leaves are a sure sign that you have whiteflies or aphids on your tomatoes. Whiteflies and aphids live on the bottom of tomato leaves, and suck juices from the plant, leaving it discolored.

Aphids, which are also called plant lice, are small, soft-bodied bugs, usually green, though they come in a wide range of colors. If you have a few aphids on your tomato, it's probably not a concern, though a large-scale infestation can kill plants. Another concern with aphids is that they can spread disease, much as mosquitos can do with humans. If you are having problems with plant disease, dealing with your aphid population may help.

Aphids can be killed using an insecticidal soap. For a more natural solution, a garlic oil spray directly onto the aphids will kill them as well.

My leaves have big holes in them!
Uh-oh! It sounds like flea beetles may have set up in your garden. Flea beetles are small- to mid-sized beetles, which get their name from their characteristic jumping behavior when disturbed. Certain kinds of flea beetles love to feast on tomato leaves.

Flea beetles eat the leaves in patches, leaving the leaves looking lacy. Tomatoes are particularly susceptible during dry patches, since flea beetles hide in wet weather. If your tomatoes are stressed by underwatering, you may see more flea beetle damage.

If you have a problem with flea beetles, you can try a hot pepper or garlic spray to chase them away. These will need to be reapplied frequently. Chemical pesticides will also work on flea beetles.

With container gardening, nearly anyone can grow fresh fruits and vegetables! Check out more ideas for growing vegetables in container gardens.

You Can Stop Tomato Blossom End Rot

2009-08-12T11:35:00.000-07:00

You Can Stop Tomato Blossom End Rot!
By J. J. Wolf

Tomato blossom end rot is a serious disorder of tomato plants.Growers often are upset to notice that a dark sunken decay has developed on the bottom end of their tomatoes, especially the first tomatoes of the season.Tomato blossom end rot can be very damaging, with losses sometimes as high as 50% of the crop.

Symptoms

On most plants,tomato blossom end rot will generally begin as a little water-soaked area at the bottom end of the tomato.This sometimes appears while the tomato is still green or during the ripening stage. As the rot develops, it will get larger,then become sunken and turn leathery and black.In extreme cases, it may cover the entire lower half of the fruit, becoming flat or concave.Secondary pathogens will also invade the spot, most of the time resulting in complete destruction of the infected fruit.

Cause

Tomato blossom end rot is not caused by a parasitic organism but is a disorder caused by a low amount of calcium in the tomato.Calcium is needed in fairly large amounts for normal cell growth.When a fast growing tomato is robbed of needed calcium, the tissues break down, leaving the typical dry, blackened spot on the bottom end.Blossom end rot is caused when demand for calcium is more than the supply.This may result from low calcium levels in the soil, stress from drought,extreme soil moisture changes which reduce the movement of calcium into the plant, or fast vegetative growth due to adding to much nitrogen.

Management

Keep your garden soil pH around 6.5. Adding lime will supply calcium and will also increase the ratio of calcium ions to other competing ions in the soil.The nitrogen source should be nitrate nitrogen. Ammoniacal nitrogen may actually worsen blossom-end rot as excess ammonium ions lower calcium uptake. Avoid over-fertilization during early fruiting, as one way of managing tomato blossom end rot.Avoid letting drought and wide fluctuations in soil moisture stress the plants by using mulches.

Plants will typically need about one inch of water per week for proper growth and development.Application od calcium through the leaves is of little value due to poor absorption and movement to fruit where needed most.

Learn how to prevent your tomatoes from becoming infected before it happens. With this knowledge it is easy to grow bountiful tomatoes and be the envy of all your friends. To learn more feel free to visit: http://www.squidoo.com/tomato-growing-tips

from shovel to rake - overview of garden tools

2009-08-12T11:33:00.000-07:00

From Shovel to Rake - Overview of Garden Tools
By Kenny Yong

Decades ago… there was the shovel, then the rake…

You just can’t imagine how creative inventors are. With the help of technology, things become so easy. In the beginning, man cultivated the land manually without the use of any technological innovations. Now, as the world enters another new phase there’s a lot of modernisms that you can benefit from.

Garden tools for instance are utilized for several tasks with varying results. There is no need for you to trim the unwanted grass in your garden because specialized tools have been developed already. From trimming to weeding, tilling and cultivating equipment are out of your luck.

Over time, man was introduced into a realm of modernism. This is the period where technology shines. As this field advances, more and more manufacturers are also introducing a growing category of the tools that are typically used in your backyard. These are the so-called specialty tools.

There are countless of garden tool manufacturers that are excelling in the market. You can purchase simple to the most complicated machines and likewise from the cheapest to the most expensive prices. As a wise gardener you can always make your own choice.

The recent innovation of garden tools makes your gardening experience a truly memorable one. It becomes more enjoyable for both the beginners and the experienced ones. This is probably due to the hassle-free gardening that you never enjoyed before. Garden tools provide you with your long lost dream of convenience in your paradise of shrubs, plants and flowers.

Garden tools are distinguished in various categories. These are primarily designed for specific backyard tasks. Like a doctor, you can also pick the best quality tool in the market for your garden needs.

Do you want to loosen the compacted soil in your backyard? Do you want to get rid of the falling debris and unwanted leaves in your hanging plants? Are you going to apply fertilizer in the soil? Do you want to cultivate or tilt the land?

Put all these worries away from your mind. This is not the right time for you to freak out. You can count on to a number of garden tools that will not only help you with the tasks but will also serve as your friend or company in your entire gardening life.

The development of the garden tools began when a certain company realized the fact that most of the homeowners are looking for equipment or even simple tools that will solve the problems they encounter in their backyard. The task and the demand were on the rise, and then the expansion of services continued its line from one country to the different countries in the world.

Today, there are about two million of garden tools are being sold out. Buying your own garden tool is all about giving solution to the menace that you encounter in your garden. You need not rely on the ideas of the experts and gardening aficionados because you can do it by yourself.

Just remember that searching for the right tools are not only limited to your basic home or office needs because your backyard makes no exception. Like your haven, the backyard also adds beauty and color to your life so it is just right to use the perfect tools for your garden needs.

The Vegetable Gardener's Bible

2009-08-11T07:44:00.000-07:00

The Vegetable Gardener's Bible: Discover Ed's High-Yield W-O-R-D System for All North American Gardening Regions
By Edward C. Smith

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Product Description

Discover the last W.O.R.D. in vegetable gardening with Ed Smith's amazing gardening system. By integrating four principles -- Wide beds, Organic methods, Raised beds, and Deep beds -- Smith reinvents vegetable gardening, making it possible for everyone to have the best, most successful garden ever. By following this complete system you cultivate deep, powerful soil that nourishes plants and discourages pests and disease. The result is fewer weeds, healthier plants, and lots of great-tasting vegetables. Plus, you'll enjoy gardening as you never have before. The Vegetable Gardener's Bible -- the last W.O.R.D. in vegetable gardening.

Product Details

Amazon Sales Rank: #1802 in Books
Published on: 2000-02-15
Original language: English
Number of items: 1
Binding: Paperback
320 pages

Editorial Reviews

Amazon.com Review
Wouldn't it be lovely to have a patch of corn, lettuce, tomatoes, peppers, and beans just steps from your kitchen door? Would you like to learn how to control your zucchini plant? Ed Smith, an experienced vegetable gardener from Vermont, has put together this amazingly comprehensive and commonsensical manual, The Vegetable Gardener's Bible. Basically, Ed and his family have been growing a wide variety of vegetables for years and he's figured out what works. This book, filled with step-by-step info and color photos, breaks it all down for you.

Ed's system is based on W-O-R-D: Wide rows, Organic methods, Raised beds, Deep soil. With deep, raised beds, vegetable roots have more room to grow and expand. In traditional narrow-row beds, over half the soil is compacted into walkways while a garden with wide, deep, raised beds, plants get to use most of the soil. In Ed's plan, growing space gets about three-quarters of the garden plot and only about a quarter is used for the walkway. Ed teaches you how to create raised beds both in a larger garden or in separate planked beds. One of the most important--and most often overlooked--aspects of successful vegetable gardening is crop rotation. Leaving a crop in the same place for years can deplete nutrients in that area and makes the crop more likely to be attacked by insects. Rotate at least every two years and your vegetables will be healthier and bug-free. There's also a good section on insect and blight control.

Before choosing what to grow, go through the last third of the book, where Ed takes a look at the individual growing, harvesting, and best varieties of a large number of both common and more exotic vegetables and herbs. Whether you are a putterer or a serious gardener, The Vegetable Gardener's Bible is an excellent resource to have handy. --Dana Van Nest

From Publishers Weekly
A committed organic gardener, Smith is a proponent of staggered planting in raised, wide and deep beds that provide conductive root systems and produce abundant harvests. He explains his system, from optimum siting and soil preparation (he prefers broad-forking over rototilling or double-digging) to companion planting and compost ("The path to the garden of your dreams leads right through the middle of a compost pile"). For beginners, he takes the mystery out of such subjects as hardening off ("like a little boot camp for vegetables") and deciphering the shorthand used in seed catalogues. An abundance of photographs (most of Smith's own garden) visually bolster the techniques described, while frequent subheads, sidebars and information-packed photo captions make the layout user-friendly. The book concludes with an alphabetically arranged listing of vegetables and herbs in which Smith offers advice on every aspect of cultivation, as well as a selection of the most flavorful varieties. Smith doesn't necessarily break new ground here, but his book is thorough and infused with practical wisdom and a dry Vermont humor that should endear him to readers. (Feb.)
Copyright 2000 Reed Business Information, Inc.

From Library Journal
Smith, caretaker of a 1500-square-foot garden containing almost 100 varieties of vegetables, clearly explains everything novice and experienced gardeners need to know to grow vegetables and herbs using his system of wide, deep, raised beds. He gives detailed instructions on siting, preparing, and planning a vegetable garden, then goes on to cover choosing plant varieties, starting seed, and growing plants. Smith discusses how to create compost and ecologically friendly methods of dealing with plant diseases and pests. Detailed explanations of companion planting, crop rotation, and succession planting add to his book's value. The final third of the book gives specific cultural information (covering all regions of North America), as well as recommended varieties for many vegetables and selected herbs. Recommended for all libraries for its thorough, easy-to-follow instructions and information on companion plants and crop rotation.
-Sue O'Brien, Downers Grove P.L. IL
Copyright 2000 Reed Business Information, Inc.

Customer Reviews

Serious gardening.......
Ed Smith is a serious gardener. His approach to vegetable growing is best suited to half acre gardens in the northern areas of the United States. Smith lives and gardens in Vermont and judging by the contents (great photos as well as text) of his book, THE VEGETABLE GARDENER'S BIBLE, I suggest his gardening effort constitutes year-round full-time employment for him. I am a dedicated urban gardener, but one with a less than one-eighth (<1/8)>

My experience has shown that vegetable growing in the city has one advantage over growing vegetables in the hinterland...most of the pests that plague the countryside have not moved to town...yet! When I grew green beans on a half acre plot in the country, I fought a daily war with bean beatles. I've yet to see a bean beatle in my urban back yard. On the other hand, the larvae of the Monarch Butterfly found my parsley last year. Smith's section on pests includes something I have not seen in other gardening books..a picture of Monarch Butterfly larvae or Parsley Caterpillers as Ed calls them, munching away.

Smith is an organic gardener so he advises pest control methods that deter unwanted visitors without damaging the larger envirnoment. He also advises moving the Parsely Caterpillar out of harms' way when you battle other insects. However, the birds living in my yard consider Parsley Caterpillars a delicacy, much to the horror of my granddaughters who watched the pretty little green and yellow striped caterpillars with interest last summer as they grew bigger and bigger until one day they were discovered to have been eaten by a feathered predator who left only a few body parts in his wake.

Smith includes much that will be of interest to anyone setting out to grow vegetables for the fifteenth or first time. Although most of us don't have a green house for winter gardening, most of us do have a sunny window sill that can be used to germinate seedlings for transplanting. Most of us can compost (check out WormWoman.com on the Internet if you live in an apartment).

Smith advocates growing vegetables in (W)ide rows, (O)rganically, in (R)aised beds with (D)eep soil. Even with my small yard, I can do that. We built raised beds with timbers, and filled them with compost made entirely of yard and kitchen waste and the result is fabulous. He provides a nifty section that shows you how to construct a raised bed on a patio or balcony. You may not have a half-acre spread, but you can use Smith's Bible if you want to grow vegetables.

Excellent Reference
This book is a reference manual for vegetable gardeners, particularly those gardening in northern climates. The book is organized into 3 main parts: From Seed to Harvest (covering planning, preparing beds, starting seeds, maintaining the garden, and harvesting), The Health Garden (covering soil, compost, and pests), and Vegetables & Herbs, A-Z (alphabetical guide to individual vegetables). The book is amply illustrated with color photographs and illustrations. End material includes zone maps, a list of suppliers, a list for further reading, and an index.

Smith sums up his approach to gardening in the acronym "WORD", which signifies Wide rows, Organic methods, Raised beds, and Deep soil. He's come to this approach after many years of trying many different methods, and found that this method seems to give him the best, most reliable harvest with the least effort. In this book, he explains the parts of the WORD method in detail. For example, he notes that he found rototilling actually to be counterproductive, since it tends to develop a hardpan of packed soil just under the surface. This hardpan limits root growth, which tends to stunt plants. Instead of rototilling, he advocates building deep raised beds, which provide for full root systems and better growth.

The articles in the alphabetical reference section are quite useful. Each includes a brief description of the vegetable, notes on when and where to plant, and notes on harvesting and storing. Instructions are also provided when needed about how to transplant. Each article comes with a quick reference chart that covers sowing (depth, temperature, days to germination, etc.) and growing (temperature, spacing, watering, companions, seed longevity, etc.) Overall, the book is very informative, the text is clear, and the pictures are quite helpful, making the book useful for experienced gardeners as well as beginners.

It's a * * WONDER* * book!
THANK YOU Mr. Smith for writing this book! I couldn't say enough about how helpful it's been to me. Wanting to be careful and do things right, since I'm a beginning gardener, this book tells in simple, everyday language with photos on how to start and keep up a vegetable garden. Here's a list of a few things it covers:

* designing your garden
* insect control
* soil care
* what veges to NOT plant with other veges
* diagrams
* lots of veges and all the info you could want about them
* herb section
* seed companies
* other recommended resources
* and MORE

Square Foot Gardening

2009-08-11T07:42:00.000-07:00

All New Square Foot Gardening
By Mel Bartholomew

List Price:	$19.99
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Product Description

Do you know what the best feature is in All New Square Foot Gardening?

But, the best feature is that anyone, anywhere can enjoy a Square Foot garden. Children, adults with limited mobility, even complete novices can achieve spectacular results.

But, let's get back to the ten improvements. You're going to love them.

1) New Location - Move your garden closer to your house by eliminating single-row gardening. Square Foot Garden needs just twenty percent of the space of a traditional garden.

2) New Direction - Locate your garden on top of existing soil. Forget about pH soil tests, double-digging (who enjoys that?), or the never-ending soil improvements.

3) New Soil - The new "Mel's Mix" is the perfect growing mix. Why, we even give you the recipe. Best of all, you can even buy the different types of compost needed.

4) New Depth - You only need to prepare a SFG box to a depth of 6 inches! It's true--the majority of plants develop just fine when grown at this depth.

5) No Fertilizer - The all new SFG does not need any fertilizer-ever! If you start with the perfect soil mix, then you don't need to add fertilizer.

6) New Boxes - The new method uses bottomless boxes placed aboveground. We show you how to build your own (with step-by-step photos).

7) New Aisles - The ideal gardening aisle width is about three to four feet. That makes it even easier to kneel, work, and harvest.

8) New Grids - Prominent and permanent grids added to your SFG box help you visualize the planting squares and know how to space for maximum harvest.

9) New Seed Saving Idea - The old-fashioned way advocates planting many seeds and then thinning the extras (that means pulling them up). The new method means planting a pinch- literally two or three seeds--per planting hole.

10) Tabletop Gardens - The new boxes are so much smaller and lighter (only 6 inches of soil, remember?), you can add a plywood bottom to make them portable.

Of course, that's not all. We've also included simple, easy-to-follow instructions using lots of photos and illustrations. You're going to love it!

Product Details

Amazon Sales Rank: #598 in Books
Published on: 2006-02-14
Original language: English
Number of items: 1
Binding: Paperback
272 pages

Editorial Reviews

About the Author

Customer Reviews

Fiskars Telescoping Pruning Stik #9240

2009-08-11T07:38:00.000-07:00

Fiskars Telescoping Pruning Stik #9240
From Fiskars

List Price:	$126.08
Price:	$84.20 & eligible for FREE Super Saver Shipping on orders over $25. Details

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Product Details

Amazon Sales Rank: #1408 in Home Improvement
Brand: Fiskars
Model: 9240
Number of items: 1
Dimensions: 95.00" h x 3.50" w x 4.75" l, 4.34 pounds

Features

Telescoping pruner; extends to 12-feet; 1-1/4-inch cutting capacity
Cutting head rotates 240-degrees for precise cutting angle
Plastic body and handles, fiberglass and aluminum poles
Includes 15-inch saw blade and attachment
95-inches long; 31-ounces; backed by lifetime warranty

Editorial Reviews

Amazon.com Product Description
Spare yourself the effort of climbing trees to reach far-off branches with this convenient and powerful telescoping pruning tool from Fiskars. The Pruning Stik's fiberglass outer pole and aluminum inner pole extend to a full 12 feet, allowing you to trim upper branches from the safety and security of the ground. Its extremely sharp cutting blade can be manipulated by pulling a rope or the pole's ergonomic handle. In addition, the sturdy cutting head rotates 240 degrees to enable you to choose the proper cutting angle for branches up to 1-1/4 inches in diameter. A 15-inch Woodzig saw blade is also included for added cutting power.

Amazon.com Review
Spare yourself the effort of climbing trees to reach far-off branches with this convenient and powerful telescoping pruning tool from Fiskars. The Pruning Stik's fiberglass outer pole and aluminum inner pole extend to a full 13 feet, allowing you to trim upper branches from the safety and security of the ground. Its extremely sharp cutting blade can be manipulated by pulling a rope or the pole's ergonomic handle. In addition, the sturdy cutting head rotates 240 degrees to enable you to choose the proper cutting angle for branches up to 1-1/4 inches in diameter. A 15-inch Woodzig saw blade is also included for added cutting power.

Customer Reviews

Great non-powered tree pruner.
This pole pruner performs excellently.
I found the following features to be especially useful:

- rotating head, allows easy cuts of branches at different angles.

- no additional rope to pull, makes for easy cutting and handling.

- saw blade is sharp and it also allows user to change the angle of the blade so that you can saw more efficiently.

Features I wish it had:

- the ability to cut more than its 1 & 1/4-inch cutting capacity.

- when using the saw blade, the FULLY extended handle flexes a bit more than I prefer.

Overall this telescopeing pole pruner is excellent.
I have been using mine regularly to prune trees for over a year and it still cuts as sharply as it did on the first day.

By the way, some reviewers mentioned that the packaging was poor and they got a damaged product, they must have ordered it early before the new packaging was incorporated. My Pruning Stik arrived in good condition, it had a thick supporting cardboard piece to ensure the long box did not bend.

high tech tool for tree pruning
My husband has borrowed a friends Corona telescoping pruner for a couple of years now and he liked it so much he asked for one for christmas. Although the Corona got rave reviews, I gambled on this Fiskars because of the rotating cutting head which "cuts like butter" according to one reviewer. My husband used this tool last weekend and was thrilled. He said this makes the other pruner feel like a Model-T in comparison. The strap that connects to the cutter is contained within the pole and adjusts automatically when you raise or lower it. No more fiddling with a loose string. It raises and lowers effortlessly and indeed cuts through branches like butter. Best of all, the job that used to take him 2 hours took only 30 minutes. Wow.

A little too much plastic
Nice enough pruner as long as it is not stressed. I broke it twice after only a few days of heavy use. One time at the plastic section near the cutter and another time at the plastic mount for the blade. The best thing is Fiskars has a lifetime warranty that they honor - If you dont mind waiting a month.

Yard Butler RD-2 Roto Digger

2009-08-11T07:36:00.000-07:00

Yard Butler RD-2 Roto Digger 30-Inch Long 1.75-Inch Diameter
From Yard Butler

List Price:	$29.58
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Product Description

Roto planter digs holes for bulb planting, tree aeration, electrical wiring, or to install irrigation pipe or PVC. For use in a 3 8" or larger electric or cordless drill. No. RT 1: Bulb planter drills holes up to 7" deep and 1 3 4" in diameter No. RP 3: B

Product Details

Amazon Sales Rank: #1378 in Home Improvement
Brand: Yard Butler
Model: RD-2
Dimensions: 1.30 pounds

Features

PLANTING Consult your local nursery for proper depth and spacing of bulbs and plants. Drill hole to desired depth. Insert the bulb or seedling. Cover with soil.
TREE AERATION To aerate or fertilize trees and large shrubs, drill holes two feet apart around the outside drip line. Insert fertilizer into holes. For improved long term drainage, fill in holes with gravel or pebbles.
TERMITE BARRIERS For insecticide applications, drill hole to depth specified by insecticide manufacturer. Follow all manufacturer's directions and cautions specified on the label.
WEEDING For weeding, center the Roto Auger point directly over the center of the weed and drill down until the root is removed.

Editorial Reviews

From the Manufacturer
Advantages of Using the Roto Digger Digs holes up to 28-inches deep and 1-inch wide Insecticide applications and termite treatments Electrical or sprinkler installations under sidewalks Deep water, aerate and fertilize trees and shrubs It digs for you! Just insert into any 3/8-inch or larger electric or cordless drill.

Customer Reviews

Yard Butler Roto Digger 30-Inch Long 1.75-Inch Diameter #RD-2
I purchased the Yard Butler Roto Digger 30-Inch Long 1.75-Inch Diameter #RD-2 to use it for something it was not meant to be used for. I'm building a pool house and the location of the front door has changed. I had to crawl under the pool house and dig 2 holes that needed to be 8"X8"24" deep. This needed to be done in a 2 foot tall work area. My plan was to use the Roto Digger. I ended up using something else but the Roto Digger was tough. Held together dig after dig in red clay type soil. I'd recommend this product and plan on using it again when I start planting bulbs.

Very pleased
Very satisfied and glad we got it..........would like to see them put a hex top on it so it doesn't slip in the chuck when we hit rocks (our ground is loaded with rocks).

This a great back saver!!
This a great back saver. The extra length is perfect. I have planted using short augers and have suffered before. It seems to be sturdy and should last a long time.

HDP1-6 Weed Hound From Hound Dog

2009-08-11T07:35:00.000-07:00

Hound Dog Products HDP1-6 Weed Hound
From Hound Dog

List Price:	$29.15
Price:	$25.90 & eligible for FREE Super Saver Shipping on orders over $25. Details

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Product Details

Amazon Sales Rank: #530 in Home Improvement
Brand: Hound Dog
Model: HDP1-6
Dimensions: 8.25" h x 2.25" w x 34.75" l, 3.45 pounds

Features

Weeding tool for efficient, effective weed removal
Stand-up weeder: pulls weeds by roots quickly and easily
Durable steel construction and rustproof finishes for long-lasting wear
Long-handled, patented design allows use from standing position; includes bag clip
Limited lifetime warranty

Editorial Reviews

Amazon.com Product Description
The Hound Dog Products "Weed Hound" stand-up weeder pulls weeds by their roots quickly and easily! It requires no bending and no chemicals, making weeding easier both on you and on your garden. The weeder can also be used to aerate soil for a healthier lawn. Like all Hound Dog Products tools, the Weed Hound features durable steel construction and rust-proof finishes for long-lasting wear; its comfortable grips and upright design make gardening easier on your hands, knees, and back. It comes with a limited lifetime warranty.

Customer Reviews

Well-made, easy to use
The Weed Hound is all steel and is very well-made. The (few) moving parts are heavy-duty and two seasons of use have failed to damage it, beyond wearing the paint off the parts that actually penetrate the ground. It has the added advantage of leaving a tidy little aeration hole in the soil every time you pop out a weed. Just place, step, twist/pull and the weed is extracted, with all or most of the root. It generally works better on broadleaf weeds than on stuff like crabgrass that have spreading root systems but you can't beat it for dandelions.

And it's made in the USA.

great weeder
I got this from the local home improvement store to help on a handfull of weeds. This actually works well on crabgrass and pulls out the roots--at least better than hunching over and pulling (and tugging) them out by hand (then, to find out that you didn't remove any of roots will all the straining).

This device lets you place it on top of the root of the weed, then step down to penetrate and grasp. With some turning (much turning in some of the bigger crab grass) and pulling, I was surprised to pull out 6" of roots from a problem crab grass cluster on my neighbor's lawn bordering my own. (it probably takes more effort to bend over to try to pull manually than it is to use this weeder to twist and pull.)

I cannot imagine how to achieve similar results without having a shovel and remove much more dirt than needed.

One thing that you need to watch out for is if you have to pull out a large cluster of crab grass, you may want to get some soil available to patch up the area. This device removes a small amount of dirt while clasping the roots. (not really an issue for most weeds, but if you have a large crab grass cluster of 3-5, I have found having a handfull of soil to level out the small holes is helpfull.)

The best solution to get rid of those horrible dandelions!
I can't say enough wonderful things about the weed hound. I first bought was as a gift. Then when our yard had a dandelion problem (it is great for other weeds too) I borrowed it from the person I gave it to. Then I didn't want to give it back. All of my neighbors were laughing at the 9 month pregnant women out there battling weeds with the contraption. But it worked. The next year we had much fewer. It is easy to use just center over weed, step, twist, pull out weed and pop it off. My arm gets a little tired sometimes if I am doing a lot of weeds but now that I finally bought my own I can take my time. Definitely worth the price and no more weed killer to buy!

5 Easy Steps to Growing Tomatoes Upside Down

2009-08-11T05:21:00.000-07:00

5 Easy Steps to Growing Tomatoes Upside Down
By Alex Homes

A few words before we start. There is no secret method to growing tomatoes upside down.

You can use either a 5 gallon plastic bucket or a store bought tomato hanging bag. I am going to use a 5 gallon bucket. They can hold the weight, are easy to obtain and are very durable.

Step 1 - Gather Materials

Here is a list and feel free to improvise:

Clean 5 gallon plastic bucket with lid
Method to cut a 3" hole
Potting soil and/or peat moss and fertilizer
Newspaper, coffee filters or sphagnum moss.
Way to suspend bucket, hook, post, wire

Tomato plants, the varieties that seem to work well are:

Roma or Window Box Roma
Celebrities
Tumbler
Garden Pearl
Yellow Pigmy
Micro Tom
Basket Boy Yellow or Red

Step 2 - Prepare your Hanging Container

Take your bucket and cut approximately a 3" hole in the bottom and in the lid. A hole saw on a portable drill would be my choice. Tin snips or a utility knife (be extremely careful) may work as well.

Step 3 - Planting the Tomato Plant

There are two approaches to planting the tomato plant in the bucket.

Method 1 - Place the bucket on some supports right side up to allow access to the bottom hole. Hold the plant at the stem upside down and thread the roots through the hole in the bottom of the bucket. Place newspaper around hole to keep soil from falling out. Add potting soil gently around the root ball. Fill the bucket almost to the top with potting soil and add organic plant fertilizer.

Method 2 - With the bucket right side up place newspaper on the bottom and fill the bucket with potting soil. A 40 lb. bag fills it. Snap the lid on. Turn the bucket over (up side down). Cut through the newspaper and plant the seedling in the 3" hole that was cut in the bottom of the bucket.

Step 4 - Hanging the Container

Now you are ready to hang the bucket. Select a location that gets full sun and position it so that you will be able to easily add water through the hole in the bucket lid.

Step 5 - Daily Care and Harvest

Replace soil as needed to keep soil level within 2" of the top. The plant will require daily watering. Harvest your organic tomatoes from your upside down tomato growing project.

To grow disease free organic tomatoes you will need . . . Read More

If you enjoy learning how to grow tomato plants and like tomato plant care then I recommend

Organic Tomato Magic found at http://www.OrganicHomeGardenGuide.com

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Alex_Homes

Transplanting Your Vegetable Seedlings

2009-08-11T05:19:00.000-07:00

Transplanting Your Vegetable Seedlings
By Johnny Cartwright

Particularly in the North, where the growing season is shorter, it is necessary to transplant several garden crops in order to make sure that strong plants will be able to mature and produce within the growing season. In the Southern states, the growing season is longer, and transplanting is generally not necessary, as many plants can be direct-seeded at the same time that Northerners are starting their seedlings indoors.

Transplanting should be done as soon as the seedlings are large enough to handle, from the starter pots into larger pots in which they'll remain until they can be transplanted again into the garden.

Though the transplanting process is a good option for many plants, it has a greater effect on some plants. Some vegetable seedlings cannot undergo transplantation, as the process tends to bend or break their small roots, and, in the case of carrots or other straight-root vegetables, this defeats the purpose. Other vegetables, like celery, that are not grown for their roots benefit from the transplant process as it tends to build a wider root structure to support and nourish the plant.

There are several vegetable crops that simply do not transplant well from the seed-bed to the garden plot. Plants such as melons, cucumbers and beans should be direct-seeded when possible, though in short-season areas this may mean they cannot be planted at all. In these cases, some gardeners use planting pots that can be placed directly in the garden, providing an opportunity to start the plants indoors, without having to later transplant them. Peat pots, or pint or quart berry boxes work well for this use.

Another method is to cut sod into 6" square pieces about 2 inches thick. Place them, root side up, and plant the melons, or other garden plant, in hills directly on the loamy soil, supported by the grass roots.

When the weather warms, and it's time to "transplant" these garden seedlings, simply place the peat pots, berry boxes or sod squares into the prepared hole. You can also trim the bottom of the berry boxes, if so desired.

Vegetable Gardening

2009-07-10T08:16:00.002-07:00

Vegetable Gardening
By Bruce Houston

Successful vegetable gardening involves far more than just popping a few seeds into the ground and waiting for a tomato to appear. I'll briefly cover the basics of vegetable garden design, but you might also want to get some gardening books.

Planning your garden is one of the most important parts of vegetable gardening, and it's quite simple. Whether it's a vegetable garden, a flowerbed, indoor houseplants, or some combination, successful gardening requires planning, patience, and a little detective work. Whatever you do, do not choose garden soil, no matter how rich it might be, for indoor vegetable gardening! No matter what gardening zone your garden is located in there are catalogues with myriad variety of vegetables. Use these vegetable gardening tips to prepare your garden and keep your home full of fresh vegetables. Preparing your garden soil for planting is the most physically demanding part of vegetable gardening and may also be the most important part.

The patios and balconies of apartment buildings and condominiums often have good exposure for container vegetable gardening. Container gardening makes it possible to position the vegetables in areas where they can receive the best possible growing conditions. Container gardening can provide you with fresh vegetables as well as recreation and exercise. Although vegetable production will be limited by the number and the size of the containers, this form of gardening can be rewarding. Soilless mixes such as a peat-lite mix are generally too light for container vegetable gardening, since they usually will not support plant roots sufficiently. MEDIA A fairly lightweight potting mix is needed for container vegetable gardening. Soil Conditions The right type of soil for the right type of plant is key to successful vegetable gardening. Clay and sandy soils must be modified for successful vegetable gardening. Proper fertilization is another important key to successful vegetable gardening.

Buy seeds, seed starting kits and gardening supplies for vegetable gardens. If you are new to gardening, starting vegetables from seed may be too huge an undertaking, instead purchase plants. Practice crop rotation in your vegetable gardening by planting tomatoes and other vegetables in a different spot every year. Mulches can be used effectively in all types of gardening situations from vegetable gardens to flower gardens and even around trees and shrubs. I know an eyebrow or two might be raised at the suggestion of indoor vegetable gardening, but it can be done, within limits.

Added to the pleasure of gardening will be satisfaction derived from relishing vegetables freshly picked from your very own plot. Learning is a process, vegetable gardening needs time. As in so many other pursuits, so it is in the art of vegetable gardening: practice does make perfect.

Gardening Tools

2009-07-10T08:16:00.001-07:00

Gardening Tools - An Overview
By David Chandler

Most people know very well about the rules and regulations to keep your plants to grow healthy in your garden. For getting sustainable growth from your garden plants, they do require good soil quality, sun light and sufficient water. Although these items have been gifted by nature, gardening tools are necessary to upkeep your garden. Good gardening tools will assist you in taking care of your plants as well as cultivating good growing conditions, thus having a positive effect on your plant's health.

Defective gardening tools can be detrimental to your garden and to you. Defective gardening tools can cause injury to your plants or injury to yourself. Gardeners should find the best quality garden tool that they can afford. Once you have labeled your garden tool as “the best”, it implies that the tool provides quality work for which it was designed for and with the least labor possible.

Below is a list of some common garden tools and their uses.

Lawnmowers

Luxus Push Reel Mower rated as best by the gardening aficionados provides large top cover that protects overhanging flowers and shrubs. Another special gardening tool called American Lawn Mower Deluxe has also been accredited as best, which will be helpful to operate on elbow grease alone and causing no pollution. However, this is not conducive for too tall grasses.

Garden Shredders

In general, all garden shredders have a high watt motor and come with silent crushing system. This kind of gardening tool accelerates your shredding activity. Gardening shredders with an electric shredder are easy to assemble and aids in tree pruning with maximum of 40 mm. The garden shredder also aids in shredding debris from punning your hedges. This gardening tool is considered the best among all the garden shredders since it is available with a plunger for increased portability and built-in wheels.

Cultivators

These modern gardening tools are available with patented tines to help in cutting the hard compacted soil smoothly. Cultivators are available with a free border edger. It is perfect to use in cleaning the moss, aerating and in thatching. This garden tool helps extensively in preparing vegetable plots, flowerbeds, etc.

Leaf sweeper

These gardening tools are extensively used for smaller lawns. It is having an infinite height adjustment with 200-liter collector.

Edge Trimmer

The gardening equipment reviewers have also accredited this gardening tool as important equipment. This aids in trimming the hedges and aids in plant pruning.

Spading fork
This is a wonderful gardening tool used for aerating and transplanting. By using this gardening tool, it is possible to perform splitting grasses and perennials. In addition, this garden tool can be used as a manure fork, mulch fork, and sorting hay.

Mattock

Mattock is an important gardening tool for breaking up the clay soils and working around established trees with the roots. There is no need to have a pick and a hoe, if you have a mattock.

Before you leave the garden center, it is highly advisable to have a look at this checklist of gardening tools and confirm if you have all the gardening tools you need to make your garden picture perfect.

A Tree Planting Guide

2009-07-09T10:25:00.000-07:00

A Tree Planting Guide
By Tom K. Kelly

When planting trees, the first thing you need to take into consideration before choosing a location is the mature height and spread of the tree. Though you may be tempted by all the different species that are available, take care to choose carefully, especially if you have an average size yard, because crowding spoils the growth and appearance of trees, particularly specimen trees.

It is typically most economical to plant young trees. Planting a mature tree is difficult and can be expensive if done professionally. It may well justify the expense, however, if a mature tree is badly needed for a terrace or for screening. What you are paying or is the time it takes a smaller tree to mature.

The best time to transplant a tree is in the early spring or late fall. You can plant trees in full leaf with the aid of wilt-proof sprays that seal the leaves against moisture loss until the roots are established, but this costs money and entails greater risks than buying your tree and planting it in early spring.

When planting a tree over 6 feet in height, it will suffer less setback if moved with a bur lapped root ball.

Since the root system needs fertile soil when it is planted, special steps should be taken. Dig the hole 2 feet deep and at least 1 foot wider than the full spread of the roots in each direction. The bottom should be broken up with a pitchfork and thoroughly mixed with peat, leaf mold, loam, etc.

Manure can be used sparingly and should only be spread on the top of the hole or it can burn the roots. The deeper you cultivate the hole, the better for your tree. Once planted, you can cultivate around it but not under the roots. If you hit a layer of building debris or clay, which is not at all uncommon near a house, you must remove this layer and replace it with good soil, or better still, garden humus.

If you are planting a bare root seedling, you will want to protect it by "heeling in" a vacant flower bed where it may be kept before planting as long as it is dormant.

This means laying it on its side at an angle to the ground and covering the roots with good soil. When you are ready to take it from the soil, give it a mud bath or "puddle" it. This protects the roots from exposure to air before planting and also from any air pockets which may exist around the roots after planting. After filling the hole to the depth required by the roots of the plant, flood it with water to settle the soil at the bottom; when this has drained away, place the tree in the position in which it is to grow and fill in the soil around it.

Work the soil around the roots using a stick or shovel handle, and make certain there are no air pockets. Spread the roots naturally, planting the tree at around the same depth as its former location. When the hole is two-thirds, of the way full, tramp it down and fill with water again. Fill in the remaining soil without tramping it down, so that the water will drain towards the trunk.

A balled-and-bur lapped tree is one that has been dug with a solid ball of soil in which it has been growing in, its root system is thus amply covered and protected. The ball is held in place by a secure covering of burlap and twine. To plant it, set the tree in a hole slightly lower than it stood in the nursery. Work the soil beneath this depth, as described previously.

If the ground is dry, fill the hole with water and let it soak in before planting. Cut the burlap at the top when you put the tree in place, and roll it back a few inches. You will plant the burlap and all. The burlap will soon rot away.

After the tree is planted you can cut it back sharply. If necessary brace the tree with wire ropes. For the first year, the more cultivation around the tree the better, keeping weeds away, too, with straw or mulch, in the spring and fall will help keep the moisture in the ground.

Planting a Grape Vine

2009-07-09T10:24:00.002-07:00

Planting a Grape Vine
By Danie Wium

You have prepared your site; you have decided what variety to grow; now it is time to plant your grape vine! Well, unfortunately, this is where many home grape growers terribly fail!

Planting a grape vine is not hard, if fact, it is one of the easiest fruits to get started, but there are a few key things to remember when planting your grape vine.

1. The planting hole

In the early days, before research proofed this method wrong, planting grape vines, by adding fertilizer and all kinds of stuff into the planting hole, was a well-known practice? Research showed, that a grape vine sprouts from energy within the vine itself, and do not actually use any fertilizer until the vine reach about 2 to 3 inch shoot length. By adding fertilizer directly into the planting hole, or directly on the roots of the vines could damage (scourge) the roots.

With knowledge/information you gained from soil samples, you should fertilize and correct all mineral shortages BEFORE you prepare your vineyard site and then plant your grape vine. This will mix all the fertilizer with the soil and will not damage the roots of your grape vine.

Make a large enough hole to accommodate all the roots from the cutting and do not cut or remove any roots - the more roots, the better the chance of successfully planting your grape vine.

2. Preparing the new vine before planting

Before planting your grape vine, you should plunge the complete vine into a bucket of water for at least six hours. Under no circumstances, let the roots of the vine dry out - this is very important! If you are planting a few hundred vines, cover the vines not planted yet with a damp gunny bag or something similar.

3. Watering the vine

Before you plant the grape vine, you should thoroughly water the planting hole and ensure that the water deeply penetrates the sidewall of the planting hole.

Constantly add water to the planting hole while filling the hole with water to ensure that no air pockets forms near the roots of the vines. Water your grape vine once a week for at least a month after planting the grape vine.

Following these simple rules when planting a grape vine, will guarantee a much higher success rate.

Basic Gardening

2009-07-09T10:24:00.001-07:00

Basic Gardening - Planting Bulbs
By Jonathan Johnson

Spring flower bulb planting in the fall is fast, easy and a nearly foolproof way to add color to your garden. By following a few simple steps you should enjoy your spring and summer bulb garden for years to come. Here are a few basic guidelines. Spring flowering bulbs need to be planted in the fall before the first hard freeze. Subsequent cold weather will sustain the bulbs' dormancy period required to stimulate root growth and spring flowering. If you have purchased your bulbs early in the fall it is ok to store them unpackaged in a cool dry place between 50 and 60 degrees Fahrenheit for a few days. For extended periods store them in your refrigerator, but keep them away from ripening fruit as the ethylene released by the fruit can damage your bulbs. When planning a new bulb garden site keep in mind the following:

Mass or cluster plantings in round or curved shapes create the best color impact.
Bulbs do not like “wet feet”.
Make sure the area you are planting has good soil drainage. Do not plant in areas where the soil stays constantly damp. Make sure the area gets plenty of the sunlight in the spring.
Read the label or planting guide supplied with the bulbs. Many varieties of bulbs will be taller than others, so it is important to plant the shorter ones in the front of the bed.

Prepare your flowerbed by spading or roto-tilling to a depth of 8-10 inches. If you have sandy soil it is a good idea to mix in some compost, shredded leaves or peat moss. For heavy, clay soils, the addition of coarse sand or peat moss will improve drainage. Once the soil is ready for planting, follow these guidelines when planting your bulbs:

Refer to your planting guide to determine proper planting depth and spacing for each type of bulb. If no information is available a general guideline is to plant a bulb 3 times as deep as its diameter. By varying your planting depth a little you can get bulbs of the same variety to flower at different times instead of all at once.
Make a hole for the bulb using a trowel, shovel or with the handle of a garden tool. Place the bulb pointed side up firmly in the bottom of the hole and gently cover the bulb with soil.
Cottage Farms always recommends mulching immediately since mulch shades and cools the soil, helps prevent weeds and provides organic matter for the soil.
Water your bulbs in thoroughly the day of planting. If the fall or winter is very dry, an occasional watering would be helpful. During the growing season make sure they receive at least 1-inch of rain or equivalent watering per week.

When your bulbs start actively growing in the spring it is recommended to fertilize every two to three weeks with a water soluble fertilizer like Cottage Farms' Bud-N-Bloom Booster. Such feeding should be done in early spring / summer to promote flowering and superior bulb growth. After your bulbs have bloomed and the petals really begin to fade you may want to remove the flower spike to prevent seeding (which takes away nutrients needed for next year blooms). Allow the leaves to die back and dry up before removing. This is an essential part of a bulbs life cycle in preparation of winter dormancy and next year's growth.

Moon Gardening

2009-07-09T10:22:00.002-07:00

Moon Gardening: Planting by Moonlight
By Eugene DeFazzio

Moon Phases and Planting

Planting by the phases of the moon is a method of cultivation as old as agriculture and civilization. Based both in tradition and superstition, the character and growth traits of plants were seen to vary with the phases of the moon. Through the corridors of time this rhythm of growth was recorded and passed down to following generations.

Today we have access to this half forgotten knowledge and what has endured is a schedule of plant growth that we can use just as those gardeners of yore. It is an example of mankinds struggle to understand and harness the forces of nature and in so doing master this world.

Moon, Tides, Seeds and Water

The Earth is in a gravity well that is constantly altered by both the sun, moon and planets. The ocean tides are at their highest during the time of the full moon, when the sun and moon are lined up with the earth. The ancients believed that as the moon draws the tides in the seas, it also draws upon all water, causing moisture to swell up in the earth, which promotes growth. This is the best time for planting seeds.

The Full Moon: A window of opportunity for planting seeds

When the moon is full the lunar gravity draws water up and causes seeds to germinate. It was also believed, in ancient times, that the increasing moonlight created balanced root and leaf growth. This, they thought, was the best time for planting above ground annual crops that produce their seeds outside the fruit. Examples of such crops are lettuce, spinach, celery, broccoli, cabbage, cauliflower, and grain crops. Through time and trials cucumbers were thought to like this phase also, even though they are an exception to the rule.

The Second Quarter Moon: A window of opportunity for planting above ground crops

In the second quarter moon (i.e. waxing half moon) the pull of gravity is less, but the moonlight is substantial and on the increase, which was believed to encourage strong leaf growth. It was generally considered a good time for most types of planting and the prime time for this was usually two days before the full moon. The types of crops that prefer the second quarter moon are annuals that produce their fruits above the ground, but the seeds form inside the fruit, such as beans, melons, peas, peppers, squash, and tomatoes.

The Third Quarter Moon: A window of opportunity for planting root crops

When the moon enters the third quarter its light is diminishing (i.e. waning half moon), the light energy is dwindling. But during this time the gravitational pull is still quite high, creating increased moisture in the soil. Also, at this time the moonlight is decreasing, which our forefathers believed was putting energy into the roots. This was thought to be an excellent time for planting root crops which include beets, carrots, onions, potatoes, and peanuts. It is also considered a good time for planting perennials, biennials, bulbs and transplanting because of the active root growth. Pruning is also best done in the third quarter moon.

The New Moon: An opportunity for maintaining the garden

At the time of the new moon both the gravitational pull and the moonlight are decreasing and was thus considered a resting period. Growth during this period was believed to be stable and steady providing strength to the plants and a good time for maintenance. This was predicted to be the best time to cultivate, harvest, transplant and prune.

Brother Sun and Sister Moon

The role of the sun and the moon in agriculture is undeniable. The sun powers the forces of growth and the moon enhances or discourages the various stages of plant formation. This was believed by many generations of gardeners to be the ultimate guide to robust crops. We can either accept or omit this system of understanding the nature of plant maturation but in the end we are but stewards in this cycle of life.

Spring Planting Tips

2009-07-09T10:22:00.001-07:00

Spring Planting Tips
By Michael McGroarty

Spring means that the garden centers are packed with people, and car trunks are packed with plants. Everybody has dirt on their knees, dirt under their nails, and is excited about gardening. To make certain that this excitement yields positive results, let's discuss the basics in this article of spring planting tips.

Installing new plants and having them grow successfully is not difficult, nor is it as complicated as some would have you think. Is it as easy as just digging a hole and setting the plant in? Yes, it certainly can be. I won't get into bed preparation, as I have covered that in other articles that are available at http://www.freeplants.com

Let's start with B&B plants. B&B is short for balled in burlap. Closely examine the ball on the plant that you have purchased. Did the diggers wrap twine around the ball to hold the plant secure? If they did, you should at least cut the twine and lay it in the bottom of the hole, or remove it completely. Pay close attention around the stem of the plant where it emerges from the root ball, as diggers often wrap the twine around the stem several times as they tie the ball. This is extremely important because if the string is nylon, it will not rot and will girdle and kill the plant two or three years from now.

When B&B plants are stored in the nursery for extended periods of time it becomes necessary to re-burlap them if the bottom starts to rot before the plants are sold. If the plant that you buy has been re-burlaped it is possible that there could be nylon stings between the two layers of burlap, so check the stem carefully. As long as the nylon string is removed from around the stem of the plant, it is actually harmless around the rest of the ball, and you do not have to remove it.

Is the root ball wrapped in genuine burlap, or imitation burlap made of a non-biodegradable plastic material?

Genuine burlap will rot quickly underground and does not have to be disturbed before planting. If you're not sure or suspect a poly type burlap, you don't have to remove it completely, but should loosen it around the stem of the plant and cut some vertical slices around the circumference of the ball.

Now here's the critical part. What kind of soil are you planting in?

If your soil is heavy clay, I highly suggest that you raise the planting bed at least 8” with good rich topsoil. If you can't do that for some reason, install the plant so that at least 2” or more of the root ball is above the existing grade and mound the soil over the root ball. Keep in mind that plants installed this way could dry out over the summer, but planting them flush with the ground in heavy clay can mean that the roots will be too wet at other times of the year.

The “experts” suggest that when planting in clay soil you dig the hole wider and deeper than the root ball and fill around and under the plant with loose organic material. That sounds like a really great idea, doesn't it? Some of these experts also recommend that you dig the hole extra deep and put a few inches of gravel in the bottom for drainage. Where do you suppose they think this water is going to “drain” to?

Keep in mind that most B&B plants are grown in well drained soil. That means that the soil in the root ball is porous and water can easily pass through. Now imagine if you will, a root ball about 15” in diameter, setting in a hole 30” in diameter. All around and under that root ball is loose organic matter. Inside of that root ball is porous soil. Now along comes Mother Nature with a torrential downpour. There is water everywhere, and it is not going to soak into that hard packed clay soil, so it is just flowing across the top of the ground searching for the lowest point.

When it reaches our newly planted tree surrounded by loose organic matter, it is going to seep in until the planting hole is completely full of water. (Remember my article on getting rid of standing water and the French drain system?) By using this planting technique we have actually created a French drain around our poor little plant that cannot tolerate its roots being without oxygen for long periods of time. Because the bottom of this hole is clay, even though we've added gravel for drainage, there is nowhere for the water to go, and this plant is going to suffer and likely die.

If you cannot raise the planting bed with topsoil, and are planting in clay soil, I recommend that you install the root ball at least 2” above grade and backfill around the ball with the soil that you removed when you dug the hole. Backfilling with the clay soil that you removed is actually like building a dam to keep excess water from permeating the root ball of your newly planted tree. The plant is not going to thrive in this poor soil, but at least it will have a chance to survive.

Once again, raising the bed with good rich topsoil is the best thing you can do to keep your plants healthy and happy.

No matter what kind of soil you have, be careful not to install your plants too deep. They should never be planted any deeper than they were grown in the nursery. Planting too deep is a common problem, and thousands of plants are killed each year by gardeners who just don't understand how critical planting depth is.

Staking newly planted trees is always a good idea. If your new tree constantly rocks back and forth when the wind blows it will have a very difficult time establishing new roots into the existing soil. Stabilize the tree with a stake. You can use a wooden stake, a fence post, or for small trees I often use 1/2” electro magnetic tubing, (conduit), available at any hardware store.

You can secure the tree to the stake with a single wrap of duct tape. In about six months or a year the sun will dry the glue on the duct tape and it will fall off. Check the tape to make sure that it has fallen off. You don't want to girdle the tree with the tape.

Container grown plants are much easier. Follow the rules for depth of planting as described earlier. Before gently removing the plant from the container, check the drain holes in the bottom of the container for roots that might be growing out the holes. If so, cut them off so they will not make it difficult to get the plant out of the container.

The easiest way to remove the plant from the container is to place your hand over the top of the container and turn it completely upside down and give it a gentle shake. The plant should slide right into your hand.

Examine the root mass as you hold it in your hand. Sometimes when plants have been growing in a container for a long time the roots start to grow in a circular pattern around the root mass. This is not good, and you should disturb these roots before planting so you can break this circular pattern. You can take a knife and actually make about three vertical slices from the top of the root mass to the bottom. This will stimulate new roots that will grow outward into the soil of your garden. Or you can just take your fingers and loosen the roots that are circling the root mass and force them outward before you plant them.

What about fertilizer, bone meal, peat moss, and all those other additives they are going to try and sell you at the garden center?

Raise your planting beds with good rich topsoil and forget about the additives. Be very careful with fertilizers, they can do more harm than good. I landscaped my house 14 years ago and I haven't got around to fertilizing the plants yet, and have no intention of doing so. They look great.

As far as bone meal and all those other soil additives are concerned, don't get too caught up in all that stuff. The only thing that I know for sure is that they will make your wallet thinner, but I don't think you'll see a difference in your plants. Over the years I've landscaped several hundred homes with fantastic results, and I never added any of these additives to my planting beds.

Did I mention planting in good rich topsoil? That's the secret!

Fiskars 9921 Softouch Micro-Tip Pruning Snip From Fiskars

2009-03-20T07:25:00.001-07:00

RITE-PRICE GARDEN SHOP

Product Details

Bonsai Tool 10-piece Set From Oriental Touch LLC

2009-03-20T07:22:00.000-07:00

RITE-PRICE GARDEN SHOP

Product Details

Product Description

This 10-pc set includes:(1) 7 1/2" cutting scissors (large) (2) 7 1/2" cutting scissors (media) (3) 7" trimming scissors, (4) 4 1/4" leaf cutter, (5) 8" concave cutter, (6) 8 1/4" knob cutter, (7) 8" wire cutter, (8) 8 1/2" rake with spatula, (9) 9" root hook, (10) 5 3/4" broom. These tools are the best bang for your buck. We have sold thousands of sets. They are loved by every customer of ours. Their Function/Price ratio is way better than Japanese made tools. If our tools do not meet your expectation, simply return to us within 30 days from the date of delivery. We will refund your entire payment INCLUDING shipping and handling. Your satisfaction is our highest priority.

the Onion

2008-08-07T08:23:00.000-07:00

From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

Onion

Onions

Scientific classification

Kingdom:	Plantae
Division:	Magnoliophyta
Class:	Liliopsida
Order:	Asparagales
Family:	Alliaceae
Genus:	Allium
Species:	A. cepa

Binomial name

Allium cepa
L.

Onion atop a bed of lettuce in a chicken sandwich.

Onions used in salsa.

Onion fields near Elba, New York

Onions cooked in a frying pan

Onion is a term used for many plants in the genus Allium. They are known by the common name "onion" but, used without qualifiers, it usually refers to Allium cepa. Allium cepa is also known as the 'garden onion' or 'bulb' onion and 'shallot'.

Allium cepa is known only in cultivation,^[1] but related wild species occur in Central Asia. The most closely-related species include Allium vavilovii Popov & Vved. and Allium asarense R.M. Fritsch & Matin from Iran.^[2] However Zohary and Hopf warn that "there are doubts whether the vavilovii collections tested represent genuine wild material or only feral derivatives of the crop."^[3]

1 Uses

Uses

Onions, one of the oldest vegetables known to humankind, are found in a bewildering array of recipes and preparations, spanning almost the totality of the world's cultures; they are nowadays available in fresh, frozen, canned, pickled, and dehydrated forms. Onions can be used, usually chopped or sliced, in almost every type of food, including cooked foods and fresh salads, and as a spicy garnish; they are rarely eaten on their own but usually act as accompaniment to the main course. Depending on the variety, an onion can be sharp, spicy, tangy and pungent or mild and sweet.

Onions pickled in vinegar are eaten as a snack. These are often served as a side serving in fish and chip shops throughout the United Kingdom. Onions are a staple food in India, and are therefore fundamental to Indian cooking. They are commonly used as a base for curries, or made into a paste and eaten as a main course or as a side dish.

Tissue from onions is frequently used in science education to demonstrate microscope usage, because they have particularly large cells which are readily observed even at low magnifications.^[4]

Historical uses

It is thought that bulbs from the onion family have been used as a food source for millennia. In Caananite Bronze Age settlements, traces of onion remains were found alongside fig and date stones dating back to 5000 BC.^[5] Onion is native to South Asia, and is widely used in Indian cuisine.^[6] However, it is not clear if these were cultivated onions. Archaeological and literary evidence such as the Book of Numbers 11:5 suggests cultivation probably took place around two thousand years later in ancient Egypt, at the same time that leeks and garlic were cultivated. Workers who built the Egyptian pyramids may have been fed radishes and onions.^[5]

The onion is easily propagated, transported and stored. The Ancient Egyptians worshipped it,^[7] believing that its spherical shape and concentric rings symbolized eternal life. Onions were even used in Egyptian burials as evidenced by onion traces being found in the eye sockets of Ramesses IV. They believed that if buried with the dead, the strong scent of onions would bring breath back to the dead.

In ancient Greece, athletes ate large quantities of onion because it was believed that it would lighten the balance of blood. Roman gladiators were rubbed down with onion to firm up their muscles. In the Middle Ages onions were such an important food that people would pay for their rent with onions and even give them as gifts.^[7] Doctors were known to prescribe onions to facilitate bowel movements and erection, and also to relieve headaches, coughs, snakebite and hair loss. The onion was introduced to North America by Christopher Columbus on his 1492 expedition to Haiti. Onions were also prescribed by doctors in the early 1500s to help with infertility in women, and even dogs and cattle and many other household pets. However, recent evidence has proven that dogs, cats, and other animals should NOT be given onions in any form, due to toxicity during digestion. ^[8]

Medicinal properties and health benefits

Raw Onions
Nutritional value per 100 g (3.5 oz)

Energy 40 kcal 170 kJ

Carbohydrates	9.34 g
- Sugars 4.24 g
- Dietary fiber 1.7 g
Fat	0.1 g
- saturated 0.042 g
- monounsaturated 0.013 g
- polyunsaturated 0.017 g
Protein	1.1 g
Water	89.11 g
Vitamin A equiv. 0 μg	0%
Thiamin (Vit. B1) 0.046 mg	4%
Riboflavin (Vit. B2) 0.027 mg	2%
Niacin (Vit. B3) 0.116 mg	1%
Vitamin B6 0.12 mg	9%
Folate (Vit. B9) 19 μg	5%
Vitamin B12 0 μg	0%
Vitamin C 7.4 mg	12%
Vitamin E 0.02 mg	0%
Vitamin K 0.4 μg	0%
Calcium 23 mg	2%
Iron 0.21 mg	2%
Magnesium 0.129 mg	0%
Phosphorus 29 mg	4%
Potassium 146 mg	3%
Sodium 4 mg	0%
Zinc 0.17 mg	2%

Percentages are relative to US
recommendations for adults.
Source: USDA Nutrient database

Wide-ranging claims have been made for the effectiveness of onions against conditions ranging from the common cold to heart disease, diabetes, osteoporosis, and other diseases.^[9] They contain chemical compounds believed to have anti-inflammatory, anticholesterol, anticancer, and antioxidant properties such as quercetin. However, it has not been demonstrated that increased consumption of onions is directly linked to health benefits.

In many parts of the world, onions are used to heal blisters and boils. A traditional Maltese remedy for sea urchin wounds is to tie half a baked onion to the afflicted area overnight. In the morning, the spikes will be in the onion.^{[citation needed]} In the United States, products that contain onion extract are used in the treatment of topical scars; some studies have found their action to be ineffective, ^[10]^[11]^[12] while others found that they may act as an anti-inflammatory or bacteriostatic ^[13] and can improve collagen organization in rabbits.^[14]

Onions may be especially beneficial for women,^[15] who are at increased risk for osteoporosis as they go through menopause, by destroying osteoclasts so that they do not break down bone.

Onions and eye irritation

As onions are sliced, cells are broken, allowing enzymes called alliinases to break down amino acid sulphoxides and generate sulphenic acids. Sulphenic acids are unstable and spontaneously rearrange into a volatile gas called syn-propanethial-S-oxide. The gas diffuses through the air and eventually reaches the eye, where it reacts with the water to form a diluted solution of sulphuric acid. This acid irritates the nerve endings in the eye, making them sting. Tear glands produce tears to dilute and flush out the irritant.^[16]

Supplying ample water to the reaction while peeling onions prevents the gas from reaching the eyes. Eye irritation can, therefore, be avoided by cutting onions under running water or submerged in a basin of water. Rinsing the onion and leaving it wet while chopping may also be effective. Another way to avoid irritation is by not cutting off the root of the onion, or by doing it last, as the root of the onion has a higher concentration of enzymes.^[17] Using a sharp blade to chop onions will limit the cell damage and the release of enzymes that drive the irritation response. Chilling or freezing onions prevents the enzymes from activating, limiting the amount of gas generated. Having a fire, such as a candle or a burner, will help as the heat and flames will draw in the onion gas, burn it, and then send it up with the rest of the flame exhaust. In the heat, the chemical changes such that it no longer irritates the eyes. The volume of sulfenic acids released, and the irritation effect, differs among Allium species.

On January 31, 2008, the New Zealand Crop and Food institute led by Colin Eady created 'no tears' onions by using Australian gene-silencing biotechnology.^[18]

Propagation

Onion and shallot output in 2005

Onion growing shoots

Onions may be grown from seed or, more commonly today, from sets started from seed the previous year. Onion sets are produced by sowing seed very thickly one year, resulting in stunted plants which produce very small bulbs. These bulbs are very easy to set out and grow into mature bulbs the following year, but they have the reputation of producing a less durable bulb than onions grown directly from seed and thinned.

Seed-bearing onions are day-length sensitive; their bulbs begin growing only after the number of daylight hours has surpassed some minimal quantity. Most traditional European onions are what is referred to as "long-day" onions, producing bulbs only after 15+ hours of daylight occur. Southern European and north African varieties are often known as "intermediate day" types, requiring only 12-13 hours of daylight to stimulate bulb formation. Finally, "short-day" onions, which have been developed in more recent times, are planted in mild-winter areas in the fall and form bulbs in the early spring, requiring only 9-10 hours of sunlight to stimulate bulb formation.

Either planting method may be used to produce spring onions or green onions, which are the leaves and/or immature plants. Green onion is a name also used to refer to another species, Allium fistulosum, the Welsh onion, which is said not to produce dry bulbs.

Varieties

Brown and white onions

Yellow Onions

Flower head of a yellow onion

Red onions

Bulb onion - Grown from seed (or onion sets), bulb onions range from the pungent varieties used for dried soups and onion powder to the mild and hearty sweet onions, such as the Vidalia from Georgia or Walla Walla from Washington that can be sliced and eaten on a sandwich instead of meat.
Multiplier onions - Raised from bulbs which produce multiple shoots, each of which forms a bulb.
- Potato onion
Tree onion or Egyptian onion - Produce bulblets in the flower head; a hybrid of Allium cepas.
Welsh onion or Green onion
- Leek

Shallots and ten other onion (Allium cepa L.) varieties commonly available in the United States were evaluated: Western Yellow, Northern Red, New York Bold, Western White, Peruvian Sweet, Empire Sweet, Mexico, Texas 1015, Imperial Valley Sweet, and Vidalia. In general, the most pungent onions delivered many times the benefits of their milder cousins.^[19]

Shallots have the most phenols, six times the amount found in Vidalia onion, the variety with the lowest phenolic content. Shallots also have the most antioxidant activity, followed by Western Yellow, New York Bold, Northern Red, Mexico, Empire Sweet, Western White, Peruvian Sweet, Texas 1015, Imperial Valley Sweet, and Vidalia. Western Yellow onions have the most flavonoids, eleven times the amount found in Western White, the variety with the lowest flavonoid content.

For all varieties of onions, the more phenols and flavonoids they contain, the more antioxidant and anti-cancer activity they provide. When tested against liver and colon cancer cells, Western Yellow, New York Bold and shallots were most effective in inhibiting their growth. The milder-tasting varieties—Western White, Peruvian Sweet, Empire Sweet, Mexico, Texas 1015, Imperial Valley Sweet, and Vidalia—showed little cancer-fighting ability.^[19]

Notes

^ "Allium cepa Linnaeus". Flora of North America.
^ Grubben, G.J.H. & Denton, O.A. (2004) Plant Resources of Tropical Africa 2. Vegetables. PROTA Foundation, Wageningen; Backhuys, Leiden; CTA, Wageningen.
^ Daniel Zohary and Maria Hopf, Domestication of plants in the Old World, third edition (Oxford: University Press, 2000), p. 198
^ "Genetics Teaching Vignettes: Elementary School" (html) (2004-06-15). Retrieved on 2008-01-28.
^ ^a ^b "Onions Allium cepa". selfsufficientish.com. Retrieved on 2006-04-02.
^ Sen 2004: 58
^ ^a ^b "About Onions: History". Retrieved on 2008-01-30.
^ "Human Foods that Poison Pets". Retrieved on 2008-01-30.
^ World's Healthiest Foods
^ Product Review: Mederma for Scars
^ Topical scar modification: Hype or help?. (Aesthetic Surgery Journal)
^ Zurada JM, Kriegel D, Davis IC (2006). "Topical treatments for hypertrophic scars.". Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology 55 (6): 1024–1031. doi:10.1016/j.jaad.2006.03.022. PMID 17097399.
^ K. Augusti, Therapeutic values of onion (Allium cepa L.) and garlic (Allium sativum L.), Indian J Exp Biol 34 (1996), pp. 634–640.
^ Saulis, Alexandrina S. M.D.; Mogford, Jon H. Ph.D.; Mustoe, Thomas A. M.D. (2002). "Effect of Mederma on Hypertrophic Scarring in the Rabbit Ear Model". Plastic and Reconstructive Surgery 110 (1): 177–183. doi:10.1097/00006534-200207000-00029. PMID 12087249.
^ "Onion Compound May Help Fight Osteoporosis" (html) (2005-04-11). Retrieved on 2008-01-30.
^ Scott, Thomas. "What is the chemical process that causes my eyes to tear when I peel an onion?". Ask the Experts: Chemistry. Scientific American. Retrieved on 2007-04-28.
^ Onions-USA.org FAQ
^ news.com.au, Scientists create 'no tears' onions
^ ^a ^b "Onion a day keeps doctor away?" (hmtl). Cornell University (2004-10-07). Retrieved on 2008-01-30.

References

Sen, Colleen T. (2004). Food culture in India. Greenwood Publishing. ISBN 0313324875.

External links

Broccoli

2008-07-24T17:29:00.000-07:00

From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

Broccoli
Broccoli, cultivar unknown
Species
Brassica oleracea
Cultivar group
Italica Group
Origin
possibly Ancient Rome
Cultivar group members
Many; see text.

Broccoli is a plant of the Cabbage family, Brassicaceae (formerly Cruciferae). It is classified as the Italica Cultivar Group of the species Brassica oleracea. Broccoli possesses abundant fleshy flower heads, usually green in color, arranged in a tree-like fashion on branches sprouting from a thick, edible stalk. The large mass of flower heads is surrounded by leaves. Broccoli most closely resembles cauliflower, which is a different cultivar group of the same species, but broccoli is green rather than white. In the United States, the term refers exclusively to the form with a single large head. This form is sometimes called "Calabrese" in the United Kingdom, where sprouting (non-heading) types and those with underdeveloped flower buds are also sold as broccoli.

History

Test-plot-grown broccoli near Salinas, California, USA.

Cauliflower and broccoli output in 2005. Click the image for the details.

The word broccoli comes from the Italian broccolo, the diminuitive of brocco, meaning shoot, stalk. Broccoli is a cultivar of wild cabbage, remaining exactly the same species. Wild cabbage originated along the northern and western coasts of the Mediterranean, where it was apparently domesticated thousands of years ago.^[1]^[2] That domesticated cabbage was eventually bred into widely varying forms, including broccoli, cauliflower, cabbage, kale, kohlrabi, and brussels sprouts, all of which remain the same species. It is also assumed that broccoli is related to the Dandelion plant.^[3]

Roman references to a cabbage-family vegetable that may have been broccoli are less than perfectly clear: the Roman natural history writer, Pliny the Elder, wrote about a vegetable that fit the description of broccoli. This would imply that the Romans grew their own broccoli for culinary uses during the 1st century. Some vegetable scholars recognize broccoli in the cookbook of Apicius.

Broccoli was an Italian vegetable, as its name suggests, long before it was eaten elsewhere. At that time it was a sprouting type, not the single large head that is seen today. It is first mentioned in France in 1560, but in 1724 broccoli was still so unfamiliar in England that Philip Miller's Gardener's Dictionary (1724 edition) referred to it as a stranger in England and explained it as "sprout colli-flower" or "Italian asparagus." In the American colonies, Thomas Jefferson was also an experimenting gardener with a wide circle of European correspondents, from whom he got packets of seeds for rare vegetables. He noted the planting of broccoli at Monticello along with radishes, lettuce, and cauliflower on May 27, 1767. Nevertheless, broccoli remained exotic in American gardens. In 1775, John Randolph, in A Treatise on Gardening by a Citizen of Virginia, felt he had to explain about broccoli: "The stems will eat like Asparagus, and the heads like cauliflower."

Italians brought broccoli to North America by 1806^[4], but it did not become popular until the 1920s. Commercial cultivation of broccoli in the United States can be traced to the D'Arrigo brothers, Stephano and Andrea, Italian immigrants from Messina, whose company made some tentative plantings in San Jose, California, in 1922. A few crates were initially shipped to Boston, where there was a thriving Italian immigrant culture in the North End. The broccoli business boomed, with the D'Arrigo's brand name "Andy Boy" named after Stephano's two-year-old son, Andrew, and backed with advertisements on the radio.

Varieties

Purple cauliflower, a member of the Italica cultivar group.

There are three commonly grown types of broccoli. The most familiar is sometimes called Calabrese in Great Britain and simply 'broccoli' in North America. It has large (10 - 20 cm) green heads and thick stalks, and is named after Calabria in Italy where it was first cultivated. It is a cool season annual crop.

Sprouting broccoli has a larger number of heads with many thin stalks. It is planted in May to be harvested during the winter or early the following year in temperate climates.

Romanesco broccoli has a distinctive fractal appearance of its heads, and is yellow-green in colour. It is technically in the Botrytis (cauliflower) cultivar group

Purple cauliflower is a type of broccoli sold in southern Italy, Spain and the United Kingdom. It has a head shaped like cauliflower, but consisting of tiny flower buds. It sometimes, but not always, has a purple cast to the tips of the flower buds.

Cultivation, nutritional value, and preparation

Broccoli, raw (edible parts), 100g
Nutritional value per 100 g (3.5 oz)

Energy 30 kcal 140 kJ

Carbohydrates	6.64 g
- Sugars 1.7 g
- Dietary fiber 2.6 g
Fat	0.37 g
Protein	2.82 g
Water	89.30g
Vitamin A equiv. 31 μg	3%
- β-carotene 361 μg	3%
Thiamin (Vit. B1) 0.071 mg	5%
Riboflavin (Vit. B2) 0.117 mg	8%
Niacin (Vit. B3) 0.639 mg	4%
Pantothenic acid (B5) 0.573 mg	11%
Vitamin B6 0.175 mg	13%
Folate (Vit. B9) 63 μg	16%
Vitamin C 89.2 mg	149%
Calcium 47 mg	5%
Iron 0.73 mg	6%
Magnesium 21 mg	6%
Phosphorus 66 mg	9%
Potassium 316 mg	7%
Zinc 0.41 mg	4%

Percentages are relative to US
recommendations for adults.
Source: USDA Nutrient database

Broccoli is a cool-weather crop that does poorly in hot summer weather. Broccoli grows best when exposed to an average daily temperature between 65 and 75 degrees Fahrenheit(18-23 degrees Celsius).^[5] The majority (99%) of the United States broccoli crop is grown in California and Arizona.^[6] Other cultivar groups of Brassica oleracea include: cabbage (Capitata Group), cauliflower (Botrytis Group), kale and collard greens (Acephala Group), kohlrabi (Gongylodes Group), and Brussels sprouts (Gemmifera Group). Chinese broccoli (Alboglabra Group) is also a cultivar group of Brassica oleracea.

Broccoli is high in vitamin C and soluble fiber and contains multiple nutrients with potent anti-cancer properties including diindolylmethane and selenium. The 3,3'-Diindolylmethane found in broccoli is a potent modulator of the innate immune response system with anti-viral, anti-bacterial and anti-cancer activity.^[7] ^[8] Broccoli also contains the compound glucoraphanin, which can be processed into an anticancer compound sulforaphane, though the benefits of broccoli are greatly reduced if the vegetable is boiled more than ten minutes.^[9] A high intake of broccoli has been found to reduce the risk of aggressive prostate cancer.^[10] Broccoli leaf is also edible and contains far more betacarotene than the florets.

Broccoli is usually boiled or steamed, but may be eaten raw and has become popular as a raw vegetable in hors-d'oeuvre trays. Although boiling has been shown to reduce the levels of suspected anticancer compounds in broccoli, other preparation methods such as steaming, microwaving, and stir-frying have been shown not to reduce the presence of these compounds.^[9]

Gallery

Extreme close-up of broccoli florets.	Broccoli flowers.	Two broccoli heads.	Romanesco broccoli, showing fractal forms
Steamed broccoli	Sicilian Purple Broccoli	Broccoli in flower

References

^ Gray, A.R. (1982). "Taxonomy and evolution of broccoli ('Brassica oleracea' L. var. 'italica')". Economic Botany 36: 397–410.
^ Boswell, V.R. (1949). "Our vegetable travelers". National Geographic Magazine 96: 145–217.
^ Gray, A.R. (1982). "Taxonomy and evolution of broccoli ('Brassica oleracea' L. var. 'italica')". Economic Botany 36: 397–410.
^ History of Broccoli and Cauliflower at YourHub.com
^ "Broccoli Cultivation Factsheet, Clemson University extension (2003)". Retrieved on 2008-05-13.
^ "Commodity Profile: Broccoli, University of California (2005)". Retrieved on 2008-05-13.
^ "Diindolylmethane Information Resource Center at the University of California, Berkeley". Retrieved on 2007-06-10.
^ "Diindolylmethane Immune Activation Data Center". Retrieved on 2007-06-10.
^ ^a ^b Warwick Medical School, University of Warwick (2007-05-15). "Research Says Boiling Broccoli Ruins Its Anti Cancer Properties".
^ Kirsh, VA; Peters U, Mayne ST, Subar AF, Chatterjee N, Johnson CC, Hayes RB (2007). "Prospective study of fruit and vegetable intake and risk of prostate cancer". Journal of the National Cancer Institute 99 (15): 1200–9. doi:10.1093/jnci/djm065. PMID 17652276. (News article)

External links

Wikimedia Commons has media related to:

Broccoli

All text is available under the terms of the GNU Free Documentation License. (See Copyrights for details.)
Wikipedia® is a registered trademark of the Wikimedia Foundation, Inc., a U.S. registered 501(c)(3) tax-deductible nonprofit charity.

Lettuce

2008-07-24T17:19:00.000-07:00

From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

Lettuce

Iceberg lettuce field in Northern Santa Barbara County

Scientific classification

Kingdom:	Plantae
Division:	Magnoliophyta
Class:	Magnoliopsida
Order:	Asterales
Family:	Asteraceae
Genus:	Lactuca
Species:	L. sativa

Binomial name

Lactuca sativa
L.

Lettuce and chicory output in 2005

Lettuce (butterhead)
Nutritional value per 100 g (3.5 oz)

Energy 10 kcal 60 kJ

Carbohydrates	2.2 g
- Dietary fibre 1.1 g
Fat	0.2 g
Protein	1.4 g
Water	96 g
Vitamin A equiv. 166 μg	18%
Folate (Vit. B9) 73 μg	18%
Vitamin C 4 mg	7%
Vitamin K 24 μg	23%
Iron 1.2 mg	10%

Vit. K^[1]
Percentages are relative to US
recommendations for adults.
Source: USDA Nutrient database

The Lettuce (Lactuca sativa) is a temperate annual or biennial plant of the daisy family Asteraceae. It is most often grown as a leaf vegetable. In many countries, it is typically eaten cold and raw, in salads, hamburgers, tacos, and many other dishes. In some places, including China, lettuce is typically eaten cooked and use of the stem is as important as use of the leaf. Both the English name and the Latin name of the genus are ultimately derived from lac, the Latin word for “milk”,^[2] referring to the plant’s milky juice. Mild in flavour, it has been described over the centuries as a cooling counterbalance to other ingredients in a salad.^[3] In his humorous essay 100 Things I Hate, filmmaker John Waters refers to iceberg lettuce as "the polyester of greens".^[4]

Description

The lettuce plant has a short stem initially (a rosette growth habit), but when it blooms the stem lengthens and branches, and it produces many flower heads that look like those of dandelions, but smaller. This is called bolting. When grown to eat, lettuce is harvested before it bolts. Lettuce is used as a food plant by the larvae of some Lepidoptera. The largest lettuce head, of the Salad Bowl cultivar, weighed 11 kg (25 lb) grown by Colin Bowcock of Willaston, England, in 1974.

Cultivation

Lettuce is grown commercially worldwide.

History

The lettuce that we see today actually started out as a weed around the Mediterranean basin. Served in dishes for over 4500 years, lettuce has certainly made its mark in history- as seen from tomb paintings in Egypt to the depiction of many different varieties in ancient Greek relics. Christopher Columbus introduced lettuce to the new world.^[5]

Cultivars

There are six commonly recognised Cultivar Groups of lettuce which are ordered here by head formation and leaf structure; there are hundreds of cultivars of lettuce selected for leaf shape and colour, as well as extended field and shelf life, within each of these Cultivar Groups:

Butterhead, also called Boston or Bibb, forms loose heads; it has a buttery texture. Butterhead cultivars are most popular in Europe.
Chinese lettuce types generally have long, sword-shaped, non-head-forming leaves, with a bitter and robust flavour unlike Western types, appropriate for use in stir-fried dishes and stews. Chinese lettuce cultivars are divided into “stem-use” types (called celtuce in English), and “leaf-use” types such as youmaicai (Chinese: 油麦菜; pinyin: yóumàicài) or shengcai (生菜).
Crisphead, also called Iceberg, which form tight, dense heads that resemble cabbage. They are generally the mildest of the lettuces, valued more for their crunchy texture than for flavour. Cultivars of iceberg lettuce are the most familiar lettuces in the USA. The name Iceberg comes from the way the lettuce was transported in the US starting in the 1920s on train-wagons covered in crushed ice, making them look like icebergs.
Looseleaf, with tender, delicate, and mildly flavoured leaves. This group comprises oak leaf and lollo rosso lettuces.
Romaine, also called Cos, grows in a long head of sturdy leaves with a firm rib down the center. Unlike most lettuces, it is tolerant of heat.
Summer Crisp, also called Batavian, which form moderately dense heads with a crunchy texture; this type is intermediate between iceberg and looseleaf types.

Some lettuces (especially iceberg) have been specifically bred to remove the bitterness from their leaves. These lettuces have a high water content with very little nutrient value. The more bitter lettuces and the ones with pigmented leaves contain antioxidants.

Some lettuce cultivars

A Romaine lettuce

Chemical compunds which occur in lettuce:
1: α-Lactucerol (=Taraxasterol); 2: β-Lactucerol (=Lactucon, Lactucerin); 3: Lactucin; 4: Lactucopicrin.

More lettuce cultivars

Breeding

L. sativa can easily be bred with closely related species in Lactuca such as L. serriola, L. saligna, and L. virosa, and breeding programs for cultivated lettuce have included those species to broaden the available gene pool. Starting in the 1990s, breeding programs began to include more distantly related species such as L. tatarica.^[6]

Nutrition

Lettuce is a fat free, low calorie food. It is a valuable source of vitamin A and folic acid. Lactucarium (or “Lettuce Opium”) is a mild opiate-like substance that is contained in all types of lettuce. Both the Romans and Egyptians took advantage of this property eating lettuce at the end of a meal to induce sleep.^[7]

Religious restrictions

The Yazidi of northern Iraq consider eating lettuce taboo.

Notes

^ Molly Damon, Nancy Z. Zhang, David B. Haytowitz, Sarah L. Booth (2005). "Phylloquinone (vitamin K₁) content of vegetables". Journal of Food Composition and Analysis 18: 751–758. Elsevier. doi:10.1016/j.jfca.2004.07.004.
^ Simpson, D.P. (1979). Cassell's Latin Dictionary, 5, London: Cassell Ltd., 883. ISBN 0-304-52257-0.
^ Grigson, Jane (1978). The Vegetable Book. London: Penguin, p. 312-14. ISBN 0-14-046-352-6.
^ Waters, John (1987). Crackpot: the Obsessions of John Waters. Vintage. ISBN 0394755340.
^ "Lettuce:Food Facts & Trivia". Retrieved on 2007-11-02.
^ Wim J. M. Koopman, Eli Guetta, Clemens C. M. van de Wiel, Ben Vosman and Ronald G. van den Berg (1998). "Phylogenetic relationships among Lactuca (Asteraceae) species and related genera based on ITS-1 DNA sequences" 1517–1530.
^ "Lettuce - Lactuca sativa - Daisy family". Hamilton, Dave (2005).

References

Wikibooks has a book on the topic of

Gardening/Lettuce

"Iceberg and Leaf Lettuce", University of California

All text is available under the terms of the GNU Free Documentation License. (See Copyrights for details.)
Wikipedia® is a registered trademark of the Wikimedia Foundation, Inc., a U.S. registered 501(c)(3) tax-deductible nonprofit charity.

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