Thursday, July 9, 2009

Planting a Grape Vine

Planting a Grape Vine
By Danie Wium


You have prepared your site; you have decided what variety to grow; now it is time to plant your grape vine! Well, unfortunately, this is where many home grape growers terribly fail!

Planting a grape vine is not hard, if fact, it is one of the easiest fruits to get started, but there are a few key things to remember when planting your grape vine.

1. The planting hole

In the early days, before research proofed this method wrong, planting grape vines, by adding fertilizer and all kinds of stuff into the planting hole, was a well-known practice? Research showed, that a grape vine sprouts from energy within the vine itself, and do not actually use any fertilizer until the vine reach about 2 to 3 inch shoot length. By adding fertilizer directly into the planting hole, or directly on the roots of the vines could damage (scourge) the roots.

With knowledge/information you gained from soil samples, you should fertilize and correct all mineral shortages BEFORE you prepare your vineyard site and then plant your grape vine. This will mix all the fertilizer with the soil and will not damage the roots of your grape vine.

Make a large enough hole to accommodate all the roots from the cutting and do not cut or remove any roots - the more roots, the better the chance of successfully planting your grape vine.

2. Preparing the new vine before planting

Before planting your grape vine, you should plunge the complete vine into a bucket of water for at least six hours. Under no circumstances, let the roots of the vine dry out - this is very important! If you are planting a few hundred vines, cover the vines not planted yet with a damp gunny bag or something similar.

3. Watering the vine

Before you plant the grape vine, you should thoroughly water the planting hole and ensure that the water deeply penetrates the sidewall of the planting hole.

Constantly add water to the planting hole while filling the hole with water to ensure that no air pockets forms near the roots of the vines. Water your grape vine once a week for at least a month after planting the grape vine.

Following these simple rules when planting a grape vine, will guarantee a much higher success rate.

Basic Gardening

Basic Gardening - Planting Bulbs
By Jonathan Johnson Platinum Quality Author


Spring flower bulb planting in the fall is fast, easy and a nearly foolproof way to add color to your garden. By following a few simple steps you should enjoy your spring and summer bulb garden for years to come. Here are a few basic guidelines. Spring flowering bulbs need to be planted in the fall before the first hard freeze. Subsequent cold weather will sustain the bulbs' dormancy period required to stimulate root growth and spring flowering. If you have purchased your bulbs early in the fall it is ok to store them unpackaged in a cool dry place between 50 and 60 degrees Fahrenheit for a few days. For extended periods store them in your refrigerator, but keep them away from ripening fruit as the ethylene released by the fruit can damage your bulbs. When planning a new bulb garden site keep in mind the following:
  • Mass or cluster plantings in round or curved shapes create the best color impact.
  • Bulbs do not like “wet feet”.
  • Make sure the area you are planting has good soil drainage. Do not plant in areas where the soil stays constantly damp. Make sure the area gets plenty of the sunlight in the spring.
  • Read the label or planting guide supplied with the bulbs. Many varieties of bulbs will be taller than others, so it is important to plant the shorter ones in the front of the bed.

Prepare your flowerbed by spading or roto-tilling to a depth of 8-10 inches. If you have sandy soil it is a good idea to mix in some compost, shredded leaves or peat moss. For heavy, clay soils, the addition of coarse sand or peat moss will improve drainage. Once the soil is ready for planting, follow these guidelines when planting your bulbs:

  • Refer to your planting guide to determine proper planting depth and spacing for each type of bulb. If no information is available a general guideline is to plant a bulb 3 times as deep as its diameter. By varying your planting depth a little you can get bulbs of the same variety to flower at different times instead of all at once.
  • Make a hole for the bulb using a trowel, shovel or with the handle of a garden tool. Place the bulb pointed side up firmly in the bottom of the hole and gently cover the bulb with soil.
  • Cottage Farms always recommends mulching immediately since mulch shades and cools the soil, helps prevent weeds and provides organic matter for the soil.
  • Water your bulbs in thoroughly the day of planting. If the fall or winter is very dry, an occasional watering would be helpful. During the growing season make sure they receive at least 1-inch of rain or equivalent watering per week.

When your bulbs start actively growing in the spring it is recommended to fertilize every two to three weeks with a water soluble fertilizer like Cottage Farms' Bud-N-Bloom Booster. Such feeding should be done in early spring / summer to promote flowering and superior bulb growth. After your bulbs have bloomed and the petals really begin to fade you may want to remove the flower spike to prevent seeding (which takes away nutrients needed for next year blooms). Allow the leaves to die back and dry up before removing. This is an essential part of a bulbs life cycle in preparation of winter dormancy and next year's growth.

Moon Gardening

Moon Gardening: Planting by Moonlight
By Eugene DeFazzio Platinum Quality Author


Moon Phases and Planting

Planting by the phases of the moon is a method of cultivation as old as agriculture and civilization. Based both in tradition and superstition, the character and growth traits of plants were seen to vary with the phases of the moon. Through the corridors of time this rhythm of growth was recorded and passed down to following generations.

Today we have access to this half forgotten knowledge and what has endured is a schedule of plant growth that we can use just as those gardeners of yore. It is an example of mankinds struggle to understand and harness the forces of nature and in so doing master this world.

Moon, Tides, Seeds and Water

The Earth is in a gravity well that is constantly altered by both the sun, moon and planets. The ocean tides are at their highest during the time of the full moon, when the sun and moon are lined up with the earth. The ancients believed that as the moon draws the tides in the seas, it also draws upon all water, causing moisture to swell up in the earth, which promotes growth. This is the best time for planting seeds.

The Full Moon: A window of opportunity for planting seeds

When the moon is full the lunar gravity draws water up and causes seeds to germinate. It was also believed, in ancient times, that the increasing moonlight created balanced root and leaf growth. This, they thought, was the best time for planting above ground annual crops that produce their seeds outside the fruit. Examples of such crops are lettuce, spinach, celery, broccoli, cabbage, cauliflower, and grain crops. Through time and trials cucumbers were thought to like this phase also, even though they are an exception to the rule.

The Second Quarter Moon: A window of opportunity for planting above ground crops

In the second quarter moon (i.e. waxing half moon) the pull of gravity is less, but the moonlight is substantial and on the increase, which was believed to encourage strong leaf growth. It was generally considered a good time for most types of planting and the prime time for this was usually two days before the full moon. The types of crops that prefer the second quarter moon are annuals that produce their fruits above the ground, but the seeds form inside the fruit, such as beans, melons, peas, peppers, squash, and tomatoes.

The Third Quarter Moon: A window of opportunity for planting root crops

When the moon enters the third quarter its light is diminishing (i.e. waning half moon), the light energy is dwindling. But during this time the gravitational pull is still quite high, creating increased moisture in the soil. Also, at this time the moonlight is decreasing, which our forefathers believed was putting energy into the roots. This was thought to be an excellent time for planting root crops which include beets, carrots, onions, potatoes, and peanuts. It is also considered a good time for planting perennials, biennials, bulbs and transplanting because of the active root growth. Pruning is also best done in the third quarter moon.

The New Moon: An opportunity for maintaining the garden

At the time of the new moon both the gravitational pull and the moonlight are decreasing and was thus considered a resting period. Growth during this period was believed to be stable and steady providing strength to the plants and a good time for maintenance. This was predicted to be the best time to cultivate, harvest, transplant and prune.

Brother Sun and Sister Moon

The role of the sun and the moon in agriculture is undeniable. The sun powers the forces of growth and the moon enhances or discourages the various stages of plant formation. This was believed by many generations of gardeners to be the ultimate guide to robust crops. We can either accept or omit this system of understanding the nature of plant maturation but in the end we are but stewards in this cycle of life.

Spring Planting Tips

Spring Planting Tips
By Michael McGroarty Platinum Quality Author



Spring means that the garden centers are packed with people, and car trunks are packed with plants. Everybody has dirt on their knees, dirt under their nails, and is excited about gardening. To make certain that this excitement yields positive results, let's discuss the basics in this article of spring planting tips.

Installing new plants and having them grow successfully is not difficult, nor is it as complicated as some would have you think. Is it as easy as just digging a hole and setting the plant in? Yes, it certainly can be. I won't get into bed preparation, as I have covered that in other articles that are available at http://www.freeplants.com

Let's start with B&B plants. B&B is short for balled in burlap. Closely examine the ball on the plant that you have purchased. Did the diggers wrap twine around the ball to hold the plant secure? If they did, you should at least cut the twine and lay it in the bottom of the hole, or remove it completely. Pay close attention around the stem of the plant where it emerges from the root ball, as diggers often wrap the twine around the stem several times as they tie the ball. This is extremely important because if the string is nylon, it will not rot and will girdle and kill the plant two or three years from now.

When B&B plants are stored in the nursery for extended periods of time it becomes necessary to re-burlap them if the bottom starts to rot before the plants are sold. If the plant that you buy has been re-burlaped it is possible that there could be nylon stings between the two layers of burlap, so check the stem carefully. As long as the nylon string is removed from around the stem of the plant, it is actually harmless around the rest of the ball, and you do not have to remove it.

Is the root ball wrapped in genuine burlap, or imitation burlap made of a non-biodegradable plastic material?

Genuine burlap will rot quickly underground and does not have to be disturbed before planting. If you're not sure or suspect a poly type burlap, you don't have to remove it completely, but should loosen it around the stem of the plant and cut some vertical slices around the circumference of the ball.

Now here's the critical part. What kind of soil are you planting in?

If your soil is heavy clay, I highly suggest that you raise the planting bed at least 8” with good rich topsoil. If you can't do that for some reason, install the plant so that at least 2” or more of the root ball is above the existing grade and mound the soil over the root ball. Keep in mind that plants installed this way could dry out over the summer, but planting them flush with the ground in heavy clay can mean that the roots will be too wet at other times of the year.

The “experts” suggest that when planting in clay soil you dig the hole wider and deeper than the root ball and fill around and under the plant with loose organic material. That sounds like a really great idea, doesn't it? Some of these experts also recommend that you dig the hole extra deep and put a few inches of gravel in the bottom for drainage. Where do you suppose they think this water is going to “drain” to?

Keep in mind that most B&B plants are grown in well drained soil. That means that the soil in the root ball is porous and water can easily pass through. Now imagine if you will, a root ball about 15” in diameter, setting in a hole 30” in diameter. All around and under that root ball is loose organic matter. Inside of that root ball is porous soil. Now along comes Mother Nature with a torrential downpour. There is water everywhere, and it is not going to soak into that hard packed clay soil, so it is just flowing across the top of the ground searching for the lowest point.

When it reaches our newly planted tree surrounded by loose organic matter, it is going to seep in until the planting hole is completely full of water. (Remember my article on getting rid of standing water and the French drain system?) By using this planting technique we have actually created a French drain around our poor little plant that cannot tolerate its roots being without oxygen for long periods of time. Because the bottom of this hole is clay, even though we've added gravel for drainage, there is nowhere for the water to go, and this plant is going to suffer and likely die.

If you cannot raise the planting bed with topsoil, and are planting in clay soil, I recommend that you install the root ball at least 2” above grade and backfill around the ball with the soil that you removed when you dug the hole. Backfilling with the clay soil that you removed is actually like building a dam to keep excess water from permeating the root ball of your newly planted tree. The plant is not going to thrive in this poor soil, but at least it will have a chance to survive.

Once again, raising the bed with good rich topsoil is the best thing you can do to keep your plants healthy and happy.

No matter what kind of soil you have, be careful not to install your plants too deep. They should never be planted any deeper than they were grown in the nursery. Planting too deep is a common problem, and thousands of plants are killed each year by gardeners who just don't understand how critical planting depth is.

Staking newly planted trees is always a good idea. If your new tree constantly rocks back and forth when the wind blows it will have a very difficult time establishing new roots into the existing soil. Stabilize the tree with a stake. You can use a wooden stake, a fence post, or for small trees I often use 1/2” electro magnetic tubing, (conduit), available at any hardware store.

You can secure the tree to the stake with a single wrap of duct tape. In about six months or a year the sun will dry the glue on the duct tape and it will fall off. Check the tape to make sure that it has fallen off. You don't want to girdle the tree with the tape.

Container grown plants are much easier. Follow the rules for depth of planting as described earlier. Before gently removing the plant from the container, check the drain holes in the bottom of the container for roots that might be growing out the holes. If so, cut them off so they will not make it difficult to get the plant out of the container.

The easiest way to remove the plant from the container is to place your hand over the top of the container and turn it completely upside down and give it a gentle shake. The plant should slide right into your hand.

Examine the root mass as you hold it in your hand. Sometimes when plants have been growing in a container for a long time the roots start to grow in a circular pattern around the root mass. This is not good, and you should disturb these roots before planting so you can break this circular pattern. You can take a knife and actually make about three vertical slices from the top of the root mass to the bottom. This will stimulate new roots that will grow outward into the soil of your garden. Or you can just take your fingers and loosen the roots that are circling the root mass and force them outward before you plant them.

What about fertilizer, bone meal, peat moss, and all those other additives they are going to try and sell you at the garden center?

Raise your planting beds with good rich topsoil and forget about the additives. Be very careful with fertilizers, they can do more harm than good. I landscaped my house 14 years ago and I haven't got around to fertilizing the plants yet, and have no intention of doing so. They look great.

As far as bone meal and all those other soil additives are concerned, don't get too caught up in all that stuff. The only thing that I know for sure is that they will make your wallet thinner, but I don't think you'll see a difference in your plants. Over the years I've landscaped several hundred homes with fantastic results, and I never added any of these additives to my planting beds.

Did I mention planting in good rich topsoil? That's the secret!

Friday, March 20, 2009

Fiskars 9921 Softouch Micro-Tip Pruning Snip From Fiskars

RITE-PRICE GARDEN SHOP
Product Details
Fiskars 9921 Softouch Micro-Tip Pruning Snip

Bonsai Tool 10-piece Set From Oriental Touch LLC

RITE-PRICE GARDEN SHOP
Product Details
Bonsai Tool 10-piece Set

Product Description

This 10-pc set includes:(1) 7 1/2" cutting scissors (large) (2) 7 1/2" cutting scissors (media) (3) 7" trimming scissors, (4) 4 1/4" leaf cutter, (5) 8" concave cutter, (6) 8 1/4" knob cutter, (7) 8" wire cutter, (8) 8 1/2" rake with spatula, (9) 9" root hook, (10) 5 3/4" broom. These tools are the best bang for your buck. We have sold thousands of sets. They are loved by every customer of ours. Their Function/Price ratio is way better than Japanese made tools. If our tools do not meet your expectation, simply return to us within 30 days from the date of delivery. We will refund your entire payment INCLUDING shipping and handling. Your satisfaction is our highest priority.

Thursday, August 7, 2008

the Onion

From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

Onion






















Onions
Onions







Scientific classification






Kingdom: Plantae
Division: Magnoliophyta
Class: Liliopsida
Order: Asparagales
Family: Alliaceae
Genus: Allium
Species: A. cepa







Binomial name






Allium cepa
L.







Onion atop a bed of lettuce in a chicken sandwich.
Onion atop a bed of lettuce in a chicken sandwich.
Onions used in salsa.
Onions used in salsa.
Onion fields near Elba, New York
Onion fields near Elba, New York
Onions cooked in a frying pan
Onions cooked in a frying pan

Onion is a term used for many plants in the genus Allium. They are known by the common name "onion" but, used without qualifiers, it usually refers to Allium cepa. Allium cepa is also known as the 'garden onion' or 'bulb' onion and 'shallot'.

Allium cepa is known only in cultivation,[1] but related wild species occur in Central Asia. The most closely-related species include Allium vavilovii Popov & Vved. and Allium asarense R.M. Fritsch & Matin from Iran.[2] However Zohary and Hopf warn that "there are doubts whether the vavilovii collections tested represent genuine wild material or only feral derivatives of the crop."[3]

Contents

1 Uses

Uses

Onions, one of the oldest vegetables known to humankind, are found in a bewildering array of recipes and preparations, spanning almost the totality of the world's cultures; they are nowadays available in fresh, frozen, canned, pickled, and dehydrated forms. Onions can be used, usually chopped or sliced, in almost every type of food, including cooked foods and fresh salads, and as a spicy garnish; they are rarely eaten on their own but usually act as accompaniment to the main course. Depending on the variety, an onion can be sharp, spicy, tangy and pungent or mild and sweet.

Onions pickled in vinegar are eaten as a snack. These are often served as a side serving in fish and chip shops throughout the United Kingdom. Onions are a staple food in India, and are therefore fundamental to Indian cooking. They are commonly used as a base for curries, or made into a paste and eaten as a main course or as a side dish.

Tissue from onions is frequently used in science education to demonstrate microscope usage, because they have particularly large cells which are readily observed even at low magnifications.[4]

Historical uses

It is thought that bulbs from the onion family have been used as a food source for millennia. In Caananite Bronze Age settlements, traces of onion remains were found alongside fig and date stones dating back to 5000 BC.[5] Onion is native to South Asia, and is widely used in Indian cuisine.[6] However, it is not clear if these were cultivated onions. Archaeological and literary evidence such as the Book of Numbers 11:5 suggests cultivation probably took place around two thousand years later in ancient Egypt, at the same time that leeks and garlic were cultivated. Workers who built the Egyptian pyramids may have been fed radishes and onions.[5]

The onion is easily propagated, transported and stored. The Ancient Egyptians worshipped it,[7] believing that its spherical shape and concentric rings symbolized eternal life. Onions were even used in Egyptian burials as evidenced by onion traces being found in the eye sockets of Ramesses IV. They believed that if buried with the dead, the strong scent of onions would bring breath back to the dead.

In ancient Greece, athletes ate large quantities of onion because it was believed that it would lighten the balance of blood. Roman gladiators were rubbed down with onion to firm up their muscles. In the Middle Ages onions were such an important food that people would pay for their rent with onions and even give them as gifts.[7] Doctors were known to prescribe onions to facilitate bowel movements and erection, and also to relieve headaches, coughs, snakebite and hair loss. The onion was introduced to North America by Christopher Columbus on his 1492 expedition to Haiti. Onions were also prescribed by doctors in the early 1500s to help with infertility in women, and even dogs and cattle and many other household pets. However, recent evidence has proven that dogs, cats, and other animals should NOT be given onions in any form, due to toxicity during digestion. [8]

Medicinal properties and health benefits

Raw Onions
Nutritional value per 100 g (3.5 oz)
Energy 40 kcal 170 kJ
Carbohydrates 9.34 g
- Sugars 4.24 g
- Dietary fiber 1.7 g
Fat 0.1 g
- saturated 0.042 g
- monounsaturated 0.013 g
- polyunsaturated 0.017 g
Protein 1.1 g
Water 89.11 g
Vitamin A equiv. 0 μg 0%
Thiamin (Vit. B1) 0.046 mg 4%
Riboflavin (Vit. B2) 0.027 mg 2%
Niacin (Vit. B3) 0.116 mg 1%
Vitamin B6 0.12 mg 9%
Folate (Vit. B9) 19 μg 5%
Vitamin B12 0 μg 0%
Vitamin C 7.4 mg 12%
Vitamin E 0.02 mg 0%
Vitamin K 0.4 μg 0%
Calcium 23 mg 2%
Iron 0.21 mg 2%
Magnesium 0.129 mg 0%
Phosphorus 29 mg 4%
Potassium 146 mg 3%
Sodium 4 mg 0%
Zinc 0.17 mg 2%
Percentages are relative to US
recommendations for adults.
Source: USDA Nutrient database

Wide-ranging claims have been made for the effectiveness of onions against conditions ranging from the common cold to heart disease, diabetes, osteoporosis, and other diseases.[9] They contain chemical compounds believed to have anti-inflammatory, anticholesterol, anticancer, and antioxidant properties such as quercetin. However, it has not been demonstrated that increased consumption of onions is directly linked to health benefits.

In many parts of the world, onions are used to heal blisters and boils. A traditional Maltese remedy for sea urchin wounds is to tie half a baked onion to the afflicted area overnight. In the morning, the spikes will be in the onion.[citation needed] In the United States, products that contain onion extract are used in the treatment of topical scars; some studies have found their action to be ineffective, [10][11][12] while others found that they may act as an anti-inflammatory or bacteriostatic [13] and can improve collagen organization in rabbits.[14]

Onions may be especially beneficial for women,[15] who are at increased risk for osteoporosis as they go through menopause, by destroying osteoclasts so that they do not break down bone.

Onions and eye irritation

As onions are sliced, cells are broken, allowing enzymes called alliinases to break down amino acid sulphoxides and generate sulphenic acids. Sulphenic acids are unstable and spontaneously rearrange into a volatile gas called syn-propanethial-S-oxide. The gas diffuses through the air and eventually reaches the eye, where it reacts with the water to form a diluted solution of sulphuric acid. This acid irritates the nerve endings in the eye, making them sting. Tear glands produce tears to dilute and flush out the irritant.[16]

Supplying ample water to the reaction while peeling onions prevents the gas from reaching the eyes. Eye irritation can, therefore, be avoided by cutting onions under running water or submerged in a basin of water. Rinsing the onion and leaving it wet while chopping may also be effective. Another way to avoid irritation is by not cutting off the root of the onion, or by doing it last, as the root of the onion has a higher concentration of enzymes.[17] Using a sharp blade to chop onions will limit the cell damage and the release of enzymes that drive the irritation response. Chilling or freezing onions prevents the enzymes from activating, limiting the amount of gas generated. Having a fire, such as a candle or a burner, will help as the heat and flames will draw in the onion gas, burn it, and then send it up with the rest of the flame exhaust. In the heat, the chemical changes such that it no longer irritates the eyes. The volume of sulfenic acids released, and the irritation effect, differs among Allium species.

On January 31, 2008, the New Zealand Crop and Food institute led by Colin Eady created 'no tears' onions by using Australian gene-silencing biotechnology.[18]

Propagation

Onion and shallot output in 2005
Onion and shallot output in 2005
Onion growing shoots
Onion growing shoots

Onions may be grown from seed or, more commonly today, from sets started from seed the previous year. Onion sets are produced by sowing seed very thickly one year, resulting in stunted plants which produce very small bulbs. These bulbs are very easy to set out and grow into mature bulbs the following year, but they have the reputation of producing a less durable bulb than onions grown directly from seed and thinned.

Seed-bearing onions are day-length sensitive; their bulbs begin growing only after the number of daylight hours has surpassed some minimal quantity. Most traditional European onions are what is referred to as "long-day" onions, producing bulbs only after 15+ hours of daylight occur. Southern European and north African varieties are often known as "intermediate day" types, requiring only 12-13 hours of daylight to stimulate bulb formation. Finally, "short-day" onions, which have been developed in more recent times, are planted in mild-winter areas in the fall and form bulbs in the early spring, requiring only 9-10 hours of sunlight to stimulate bulb formation.

Either planting method may be used to produce spring onions or green onions, which are the leaves and/or immature plants. Green onion is a name also used to refer to another species, Allium fistulosum, the Welsh onion, which is said not to produce dry bulbs.

Varieties

  • Bulb onion - Grown from seed (or onion sets), bulb onions range from the pungent varieties used for dried soups and onion powder to the mild and hearty sweet onions, such as the Vidalia from Georgia or Walla Walla from Washington that can be sliced and eaten on a sandwich instead of meat.
  • Multiplier onions - Raised from bulbs which produce multiple shoots, each of which forms a bulb.
  • Tree onion or Egyptian onion - Produce bulblets in the flower head; a hybrid of Allium cepas.
  • Welsh onion or Green onion

Shallots and ten other onion (Allium cepa L.) varieties commonly available in the United States were evaluated: Western Yellow, Northern Red, New York Bold, Western White, Peruvian Sweet, Empire Sweet, Mexico, Texas 1015, Imperial Valley Sweet, and Vidalia. In general, the most pungent onions delivered many times the benefits of their milder cousins.[19]

Shallots have the most phenols, six times the amount found in Vidalia onion, the variety with the lowest phenolic content. Shallots also have the most antioxidant activity, followed by Western Yellow, New York Bold, Northern Red, Mexico, Empire Sweet, Western White, Peruvian Sweet, Texas 1015, Imperial Valley Sweet, and Vidalia. Western Yellow onions have the most flavonoids, eleven times the amount found in Western White, the variety with the lowest flavonoid content.

For all varieties of onions, the more phenols and flavonoids they contain, the more antioxidant and anti-cancer activity they provide. When tested against liver and colon cancer cells, Western Yellow, New York Bold and shallots were most effective in inhibiting their growth. The milder-tasting varieties—Western White, Peruvian Sweet, Empire Sweet, Mexico, Texas 1015, Imperial Valley Sweet, and Vidalia—showed little cancer-fighting ability.[19]


Notes

  1. ^ "Allium cepa Linnaeus". Flora of North America.
  2. ^ Grubben, G.J.H. & Denton, O.A. (2004) Plant Resources of Tropical Africa 2. Vegetables. PROTA Foundation, Wageningen; Backhuys, Leiden; CTA, Wageningen.
  3. ^ Daniel Zohary and Maria Hopf, Domestication of plants in the Old World, third edition (Oxford: University Press, 2000), p. 198
  4. ^ "Genetics Teaching Vignettes: Elementary School" (html) (2004-06-15). Retrieved on 2008-01-28.
  5. ^ a b "Onions Allium cepa". selfsufficientish.com. Retrieved on 2006-04-02.
  6. ^ Sen 2004: 58
  7. ^ a b "About Onions: History". Retrieved on 2008-01-30.
  8. ^ "Human Foods that Poison Pets". Retrieved on 2008-01-30.
  9. ^ World's Healthiest Foods
  10. ^ Product Review: Mederma for Scars
  11. ^ Topical scar modification: Hype or help?. (Aesthetic Surgery Journal)
  12. ^ Zurada JM, Kriegel D, Davis IC (2006). "Topical treatments for hypertrophic scars.". Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology 55 (6): 1024–1031. doi:10.1016/j.jaad.2006.03.022. PMID 17097399.
  13. ^ K. Augusti, Therapeutic values of onion (Allium cepa L.) and garlic (Allium sativum L.), Indian J Exp Biol 34 (1996), pp. 634–640.
  14. ^ Saulis, Alexandrina S. M.D.; Mogford, Jon H. Ph.D.; Mustoe, Thomas A. M.D. (2002). "Effect of Mederma on Hypertrophic Scarring in the Rabbit Ear Model". Plastic and Reconstructive Surgery 110 (1): 177–183. doi:10.1097/00006534-200207000-00029. PMID 12087249.
  15. ^ "Onion Compound May Help Fight Osteoporosis" (html) (2005-04-11). Retrieved on 2008-01-30.
  16. ^ Scott, Thomas. "What is the chemical process that causes my eyes to tear when I peel an onion?". Ask the Experts: Chemistry. Scientific American. Retrieved on 2007-04-28.
  17. ^ Onions-USA.org FAQ
  18. ^ news.com.au, Scientists create 'no tears' onions
  19. ^ a b "Onion a day keeps doctor away?" (hmtl). Cornell University (2004-10-07). Retrieved on 2008-01-30.

References

  • Sen, Colleen T. (2004). Food culture in India. Greenwood Publishing. ISBN 0313324875.

See also

External links