Yard Butler RD-2 Roto Digger

Yard Butler RD-2 Roto Digger 30-Inch Long 1.75-Inch Diameter From Yard Butler List Price: $29.58 Price: $17.62 & eligible for FREE Super Saver Shipping on orders over $25. Details Availability: Usually ships in 24 hours Ships from and sold by Amazon.com 11 new or used available from $13.75 Average customer review:

Product Description

Roto planter digs holes for bulb planting, tree aeration, electrical wiring, or to install irrigation pipe or PVC. For use in a 3 8" or larger electric or cordless drill. No. RT 1: Bulb planter drills holes up to 7" deep and 1 3 4" in diameter No. RP 3: B

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Product Details

• Amazon Sales Rank: #1378 in Home Improvement
• Brand: Yard Butler
• Model: RD-2
• Dimensions: 1.30 pounds

Features

• PLANTING Consult your local nursery for proper depth and spacing of bulbs and plants. Drill hole to desired depth. Insert the bulb or seedling. Cover with soil.
• TREE AERATION To aerate or fertilize trees and large shrubs, drill holes two feet apart around the outside drip line. Insert fertilizer into holes. For improved long term drainage, fill in holes with gravel or pebbles.
• TERMITE BARRIERS For insecticide applications, drill hole to depth specified by insecticide manufacturer. Follow all manufacturer's directions and cautions specified on the label.
• WEEDING For weeding, center the Roto Auger point directly over the center of the weed and drill down until the root is removed.

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Editorial Reviews

From the Manufacturer
Advantages of Using the Roto Digger Digs holes up to 28-inches deep and 1-inch wide Insecticide applications and termite treatments Electrical or sprinkler installations under sidewalks Deep water, aerate and fertilize trees and shrubs It digs for you! Just insert into any 3/8-inch or larger electric or cordless drill.

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Customer Reviews

Yard Butler Roto Digger 30-Inch Long 1.75-Inch Diameter #RD-2
I purchased the Yard Butler Roto Digger 30-Inch Long 1.75-Inch Diameter #RD-2 to use it for something it was not meant to be used for. I'm building a pool house and the location of the front door has changed. I had to crawl under the pool house and dig 2 holes that needed to be 8"X8"24" deep. This needed to be done in a 2 foot tall work area. My plan was to use the Roto Digger. I ended up using something else but the Roto Digger was tough. Held together dig after dig in red clay type soil. I'd recommend this product and plan on using it again when I start planting bulbs.

Very pleased
Very satisfied and glad we got it..........would like to see them put a hex top on it so it doesn't slip in the chuck when we hit rocks (our ground is loaded with rocks).

This a great back saver!!
This a great back saver. The extra length is perfect. I have planted using short augers and have suffered before. It seems to be sturdy and should last a long time.

HDP1-6 Weed Hound From Hound Dog

Hound Dog Products HDP1-6 Weed Hound From Hound Dog List Price: $29.15 Price: $25.90 & eligible for FREE Super Saver Shipping on orders over $25. Details Availability: Usually ships in 24 hours Ships from and sold by Amazon.com 11 new or used available from $21.45 Average customer review:

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Product Details

• Amazon Sales Rank: #530 in Home Improvement
• Brand: Hound Dog
• Model: HDP1-6
• Dimensions: 8.25" h x 2.25" w x 34.75" l, 3.45 pounds

Features

• Weeding tool for efficient, effective weed removal
• Stand-up weeder: pulls weeds by roots quickly and easily
• Durable steel construction and rustproof finishes for long-lasting wear
• Long-handled, patented design allows use from standing position; includes bag clip
• Limited lifetime warranty

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Editorial Reviews

Amazon.com Product Description
The Hound Dog Products "Weed Hound" stand-up weeder pulls weeds by their roots quickly and easily! It requires no bending and no chemicals, making weeding easier both on you and on your garden. The weeder can also be used to aerate soil for a healthier lawn. Like all Hound Dog Products tools, the Weed Hound features durable steel construction and rust-proof finishes for long-lasting wear; its comfortable grips and upright design make gardening easier on your hands, knees, and back. It comes with a limited lifetime warranty.

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Customer Reviews

Well-made, easy to use
The Weed Hound is all steel and is very well-made. The (few) moving parts are heavy-duty and two seasons of use have failed to damage it, beyond wearing the paint off the parts that actually penetrate the ground. It has the added advantage of leaving a tidy little aeration hole in the soil every time you pop out a weed. Just place, step, twist/pull and the weed is extracted, with all or most of the root. It generally works better on broadleaf weeds than on stuff like crabgrass that have spreading root systems but you can't beat it for dandelions.

And it's made in the USA.

great weeder
I got this from the local home improvement store to help on a handfull of weeds. This actually works well on crabgrass and pulls out the roots--at least better than hunching over and pulling (and tugging) them out by hand (then, to find out that you didn't remove any of roots will all the straining).

This device lets you place it on top of the root of the weed, then step down to penetrate and grasp. With some turning (much turning in some of the bigger crab grass) and pulling, I was surprised to pull out 6" of roots from a problem crab grass cluster on my neighbor's lawn bordering my own. (it probably takes more effort to bend over to try to pull manually than it is to use this weeder to twist and pull.)

I cannot imagine how to achieve similar results without having a shovel and remove much more dirt than needed.

One thing that you need to watch out for is if you have to pull out a large cluster of crab grass, you may want to get some soil available to patch up the area. This device removes a small amount of dirt while clasping the roots. (not really an issue for most weeds, but if you have a large crab grass cluster of 3-5, I have found having a handfull of soil to level out the small holes is helpfull.)

The best solution to get rid of those horrible dandelions!
I can't say enough wonderful things about the weed hound. I first bought was as a gift. Then when our yard had a dandelion problem (it is great for other weeds too) I borrowed it from the person I gave it to. Then I didn't want to give it back. All of my neighbors were laughing at the 9 month pregnant women out there battling weeds with the contraption. But it worked. The next year we had much fewer. It is easy to use just center over weed, step, twist, pull out weed and pop it off. My arm gets a little tired sometimes if I am doing a lot of weeds but now that I finally bought my own I can take my time. Definitely worth the price and no more weed killer to buy!

5 Easy Steps to Growing Tomatoes Upside Down

5 Easy Steps to Growing Tomatoes Upside Down By Alex Homes

A few words before we start. There is no secret method to growing tomatoes upside down.

You can use either a 5 gallon plastic bucket or a store bought tomato hanging bag. I am going to use a 5 gallon bucket. They can hold the weight, are easy to obtain and are very durable.

Step 1 - Gather Materials

Here is a list and feel free to improvise:

• Clean 5 gallon plastic bucket with lid
• Method to cut a 3" hole
• Potting soil and/or peat moss and fertilizer
• Newspaper, coffee filters or sphagnum moss.
• Way to suspend bucket, hook, post, wire

Tomato plants, the varieties that seem to work well are:

• Roma or Window Box Roma
• Celebrities
• Tumbler
• Garden Pearl
• Yellow Pigmy
• Micro Tom
• Basket Boy Yellow or Red

Step 2 - Prepare your Hanging Container

Take your bucket and cut approximately a 3" hole in the bottom and in the lid. A hole saw on a portable drill would be my choice. Tin snips or a utility knife (be extremely careful) may work as well.

Step 3 - Planting the Tomato Plant

There are two approaches to planting the tomato plant in the bucket.

Method 1 - Place the bucket on some supports right side up to allow access to the bottom hole. Hold the plant at the stem upside down and thread the roots through the hole in the bottom of the bucket. Place newspaper around hole to keep soil from falling out. Add potting soil gently around the root ball. Fill the bucket almost to the top with potting soil and add organic plant fertilizer.

Method 2 - With the bucket right side up place newspaper on the bottom and fill the bucket with potting soil. A 40 lb. bag fills it. Snap the lid on. Turn the bucket over (up side down). Cut through the newspaper and plant the seedling in the 3" hole that was cut in the bottom of the bucket.

Step 4 - Hanging the Container

Now you are ready to hang the bucket. Select a location that gets full sun and position it so that you will be able to easily add water through the hole in the bucket lid.

Step 5 - Daily Care and Harvest

Replace soil as needed to keep soil level within 2" of the top. The plant will require daily watering. Harvest your organic tomatoes from your upside down tomato growing project.

To grow disease free organic tomatoes you will need . . . Read More If you enjoy learning how to grow tomato plants and like tomato plant care then I recommend Organic Tomato Magic found at http://www.OrganicHomeGardenGuide.com Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Alex_Homes

Transplanting Your Vegetable Seedlings

Transplanting Your Vegetable Seedlings By Johnny Cartwright

Particularly in the North, where the growing season is shorter, it is necessary to transplant several garden crops in order to make sure that strong plants will be able to mature and produce within the growing season. In the Southern states, the growing season is longer, and transplanting is generally not necessary, as many plants can be direct-seeded at the same time that Northerners are starting their seedlings indoors.

Transplanting should be done as soon as the seedlings are large enough to handle, from the starter pots into larger pots in which they'll remain until they can be transplanted again into the garden.

Though the transplanting process is a good option for many plants, it has a greater effect on some plants. Some vegetable seedlings cannot undergo transplantation, as the process tends to bend or break their small roots, and, in the case of carrots or other straight-root vegetables, this defeats the purpose. Other vegetables, like celery, that are not grown for their roots benefit from the transplant process as it tends to build a wider root structure to support and nourish the plant.

There are several vegetable crops that simply do not transplant well from the seed-bed to the garden plot. Plants such as melons, cucumbers and beans should be direct-seeded when possible, though in short-season areas this may mean they cannot be planted at all. In these cases, some gardeners use planting pots that can be placed directly in the garden, providing an opportunity to start the plants indoors, without having to later transplant them. Peat pots, or pint or quart berry boxes work well for this use.

Another method is to cut sod into 6" square pieces about 2 inches thick. Place them, root side up, and plant the melons, or other garden plant, in hills directly on the loamy soil, supported by the grass roots.

When the weather warms, and it's time to "transplant" these garden seedlings, simply place the peat pots, berry boxes or sod squares into the prepared hole. You can also trim the bottom of the berry boxes, if so desired.

Vegetable Gardening

Vegetable Gardening By Bruce Houston

Successful vegetable gardening involves far more than just popping a few seeds into the ground and waiting for a tomato to appear. I'll briefly cover the basics of vegetable garden design, but you might also want to get some gardening books.

Planning your garden is one of the most important parts of vegetable gardening, and it's quite simple. Whether it's a vegetable garden, a flowerbed, indoor houseplants, or some combination, successful gardening requires planning, patience, and a little detective work. Whatever you do, do not choose garden soil, no matter how rich it might be, for indoor vegetable gardening! No matter what gardening zone your garden is located in there are catalogues with myriad variety of vegetables. Use these vegetable gardening tips to prepare your garden and keep your home full of fresh vegetables. Preparing your garden soil for planting is the most physically demanding part of vegetable gardening and may also be the most important part.

The patios and balconies of apartment buildings and condominiums often have good exposure for container vegetable gardening. Container gardening makes it possible to position the vegetables in areas where they can receive the best possible growing conditions. Container gardening can provide you with fresh vegetables as well as recreation and exercise. Although vegetable production will be limited by the number and the size of the containers, this form of gardening can be rewarding. Soilless mixes such as a peat-lite mix are generally too light for container vegetable gardening, since they usually will not support plant roots sufficiently. MEDIA A fairly lightweight potting mix is needed for container vegetable gardening. Soil Conditions The right type of soil for the right type of plant is key to successful vegetable gardening. Clay and sandy soils must be modified for successful vegetable gardening. Proper fertilization is another important key to successful vegetable gardening.

Buy seeds, seed starting kits and gardening supplies for vegetable gardens. If you are new to gardening, starting vegetables from seed may be too huge an undertaking, instead purchase plants. Practice crop rotation in your vegetable gardening by planting tomatoes and other vegetables in a different spot every year. Mulches can be used effectively in all types of gardening situations from vegetable gardens to flower gardens and even around trees and shrubs. I know an eyebrow or two might be raised at the suggestion of indoor vegetable gardening, but it can be done, within limits.

Added to the pleasure of gardening will be satisfaction derived from relishing vegetables freshly picked from your very own plot. Learning is a process, vegetable gardening needs time. As in so many other pursuits, so it is in the art of vegetable gardening: practice does make perfect.

Gardening Tools

Gardening Tools - An Overview By David Chandler

Most people know very well about the rules and regulations to keep your plants to grow healthy in your garden. For getting sustainable growth from your garden plants, they do require good soil quality, sun light and sufficient water. Although these items have been gifted by nature, gardening tools are necessary to upkeep your garden. Good gardening tools will assist you in taking care of your plants as well as cultivating good growing conditions, thus having a positive effect on your plant's health.

Defective gardening tools can be detrimental to your garden and to you. Defective gardening tools can cause injury to your plants or injury to yourself. Gardeners should find the best quality garden tool that they can afford. Once you have labeled your garden tool as “the best”, it implies that the tool provides quality work for which it was designed for and with the least labor possible.

Below is a list of some common garden tools and their uses.

Lawnmowers

Luxus Push Reel Mower rated as best by the gardening aficionados provides large top cover that protects overhanging flowers and shrubs. Another special gardening tool called American Lawn Mower Deluxe has also been accredited as best, which will be helpful to operate on elbow grease alone and causing no pollution. However, this is not conducive for too tall grasses.

Garden Shredders

In general, all garden shredders have a high watt motor and come with silent crushing system. This kind of gardening tool accelerates your shredding activity. Gardening shredders with an electric shredder are easy to assemble and aids in tree pruning with maximum of 40 mm. The garden shredder also aids in shredding debris from punning your hedges. This gardening tool is considered the best among all the garden shredders since it is available with a plunger for increased portability and built-in wheels.

Cultivators

These modern gardening tools are available with patented tines to help in cutting the hard compacted soil smoothly. Cultivators are available with a free border edger. It is perfect to use in cleaning the moss, aerating and in thatching. This garden tool helps extensively in preparing vegetable plots, flowerbeds, etc.

Leaf sweeper

These gardening tools are extensively used for smaller lawns. It is having an infinite height adjustment with 200-liter collector.

Edge Trimmer

The gardening equipment reviewers have also accredited this gardening tool as important equipment. This aids in trimming the hedges and aids in plant pruning.

Spading fork
This is a wonderful gardening tool used for aerating and transplanting. By using this gardening tool, it is possible to perform splitting grasses and perennials. In addition, this garden tool can be used as a manure fork, mulch fork, and sorting hay.

Mattock

Mattock is an important gardening tool for breaking up the clay soils and working around established trees with the roots. There is no need to have a pick and a hoe, if you have a mattock.

Before you leave the garden center, it is highly advisable to have a look at this checklist of gardening tools and confirm if you have all the gardening tools you need to make your garden picture perfect.

A Tree Planting Guide

A Tree Planting Guide By Tom K. Kelly

When planting trees, the first thing you need to take into consideration before choosing a location is the mature height and spread of the tree. Though you may be tempted by all the different species that are available, take care to choose carefully, especially if you have an average size yard, because crowding spoils the growth and appearance of trees, particularly specimen trees.

It is typically most economical to plant young trees. Planting a mature tree is difficult and can be expensive if done professionally. It may well justify the expense, however, if a mature tree is badly needed for a terrace or for screening. What you are paying or is the time it takes a smaller tree to mature.

The best time to transplant a tree is in the early spring or late fall. You can plant trees in full leaf with the aid of wilt-proof sprays that seal the leaves against moisture loss until the roots are established, but this costs money and entails greater risks than buying your tree and planting it in early spring.

When planting a tree over 6 feet in height, it will suffer less setback if moved with a bur lapped root ball.

Since the root system needs fertile soil when it is planted, special steps should be taken. Dig the hole 2 feet deep and at least 1 foot wider than the full spread of the roots in each direction. The bottom should be broken up with a pitchfork and thoroughly mixed with peat, leaf mold, loam, etc.

Manure can be used sparingly and should only be spread on the top of the hole or it can burn the roots. The deeper you cultivate the hole, the better for your tree. Once planted, you can cultivate around it but not under the roots. If you hit a layer of building debris or clay, which is not at all uncommon near a house, you must remove this layer and replace it with good soil, or better still, garden humus.

If you are planting a bare root seedling, you will want to protect it by "heeling in" a vacant flower bed where it may be kept before planting as long as it is dormant.

This means laying it on its side at an angle to the ground and covering the roots with good soil. When you are ready to take it from the soil, give it a mud bath or "puddle" it. This protects the roots from exposure to air before planting and also from any air pockets which may exist around the roots after planting. After filling the hole to the depth required by the roots of the plant, flood it with water to settle the soil at the bottom; when this has drained away, place the tree in the position in which it is to grow and fill in the soil around it.

Work the soil around the roots using a stick or shovel handle, and make certain there are no air pockets. Spread the roots naturally, planting the tree at around the same depth as its former location. When the hole is two-thirds, of the way full, tramp it down and fill with water again. Fill in the remaining soil without tramping it down, so that the water will drain towards the trunk.

A balled-and-bur lapped tree is one that has been dug with a solid ball of soil in which it has been growing in, its root system is thus amply covered and protected. The ball is held in place by a secure covering of burlap and twine. To plant it, set the tree in a hole slightly lower than it stood in the nursery. Work the soil beneath this depth, as described previously.

If the ground is dry, fill the hole with water and let it soak in before planting. Cut the burlap at the top when you put the tree in place, and roll it back a few inches. You will plant the burlap and all. The burlap will soon rot away.

After the tree is planted you can cut it back sharply. If necessary brace the tree with wire ropes. For the first year, the more cultivation around the tree the better, keeping weeds away, too, with straw or mulch, in the spring and fall will help keep the moisture in the ground.