All New Square Foot Gardening: Grow More in Less Space! By Mel Bartholomew

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Product Details

All New Square Foot Gardening: Grow More in Less Space! By Mel Bartholomew List Price: $19.99 Price: $13.59 & eligible for FREE Super Saver Shipping on orders over $25. Details Availability: Usually ships in 24 hours Ships from and sold by Amazon.com 53 new or used available from $9.57 Average customer review:

Product Description

Do you know what the best feature is in "All New Square Foot Gardening"?

Sure, there are ten new features in this all-new, updated book. Sure, it's even simpler than it was before. Of course, you don't have to worry about fertilizer or poor soil ever again because you'll be growing above the ground.

But, the best feature is that "anyone," "anywhere" can enjoy a Square Foot garden. Children, adults with limited mobility, even complete novices can achieve spectacular results.

But, let's get back to the ten improvements. You're going to love them.

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1)????? New Location - Move your garden closer to your house by eliminating single-row gardening. Square Foot Garden needs just "twenty percent" of the space of a traditional garden.

2)????? New Direction - Locate your garden "on top" of existing soil. Forget about pH soil tests, double-digging (who enjoys that?), or the never-ending soil improvements.

3)????? New Soil - The new "Mel's Mix" is the perfect growing mix. Why, we even give you the recipe. Best of all, you can even "buy" the different types of compost needed.

4)????? New Depth - You only need to prepare a SFG box to a depth of 6 inches! It's true--the majority of plants develop just fine when grown at this depth.

5)????? No Fertilizer - The all new SFG does not need any fertilizer-ever! If you start with the perfect soil mix, then you don't need to add fertilizer.

6)????? New Boxes - The new method uses bottomless boxes placed aboveground. We show you how to build your own (with step-by-step photos).

7)????? New Aisles - The ideal gardening aisle width is about three to four feet. That makes it even easier to kneel, work, and harvest.

8)????? New Grids - Prominent and permanent grids added to your SFG box help you visualize the planting squares and know how to space for maximum harvest.

9)????? New Seed Saving Idea - The old-fashioned way advocates planting many seeds and then thinning the extras (that means pulling them up). The new method means planting a pinch- literally two or three seeds--per planting hole.

10)? Tabletop Gardens - The new boxes are so much smaller and lighter (only 6 inches of soil, remember?), you can add a plywood bottom to make them portable.

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Of course, that's not all. We've also included simple, easy-to-follow instructions using lots of photos and illustrations. You're going to love it!

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Product Details

• Amazon Sales Rank: #722 in Books
• Published on: 2006-02-01
• Original language: English
• Number of items: 1
• Binding: Paperback
• 271 pages

Features

• ISBN13: 9781591862024
• Condition: NEW
• Notes: Brand New from Publisher. No Remainder Mark.
• Click here to view our Condition Guide and Shipping Prices

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Editorial Reviews

About the Author

MEL BARTHOLOMEW, a retired businessman and engineer, found the answer to the frustrations of most gardeners with his square foot gardening method, which has received worldwide acclaim. He also created the non-profit Square Foot Gardening Foundation to promote easy gardening methods for people around the world. He lives in Utah.

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Customer Reviews

Mel and his squares work!
By a happy accident, I stumbled upon the 1982 copy of Square Foot Gardening. I was very pleased with his concept. However, having a full acre but not a tiller, I was even more pleased when I came across his All New Square Foot Gardening. "What an ingenious method!" thought I. No $50 fee for a tiller and borrowing a truck and all that mess! That's until I tried to actually put it into practice. Don't get me wrong, this is a fantastic concept, and it works very well and you should get this book if you want to garden smarter not harder, but there are a few hiccups I wanted other readers to know about before they got started.

For those of you who have not perused the book or are familiar with the new method, I'll sum it up for you: you build these four by four boxes--no tilling required--cover the bottom with weed blocker material, and then fill it with a particular mix that Mel says works like a dream. The boxes are easy, the method is brilliant, but the mix was a different story. 1/3 compost, 1/3 peat moss, and 1/3 vermiculite, agricultural gauge, which means chunky bits of vermiculite, not fine.

Everything was going smoothly until we tried to find vermiculite. We checked all the Home Depot type megastores, the little stores, gardening supply, everything he says to do in the book, to no avail. When we did find it at a pool supply company, we were informed we would have to pay $125 shipping to get it here from Atlanta. Online did not prove much better because we are growing a garden to save money, not spend more.

Finally, we had to settle for the fine stuff from a pool supply company which was pretty fine grade, but made the most luxurious and easy to work with soil I have ever seen. It was worth the search, but here's the problem I had:

Now Mel addresses the vermiculite availbility on his website, saying that it is now available in Utah, with no shipping. Utah, huh? No problem! Except we live in Memphis. When we wrote the website explaining our trouble finding it at a reasonable cost, we did get a quick reply (to all our questions, btw) and they sent us a pre-formatted response telling us to check at the home supply mega-stores because he's never found one that didn't carry it. My question is if it's everywhere then why have the pre-formatted response? And when he addresses finding a substitute, says that yes, you can substitute perlite (which is much easier to find) but he says don't do it because it makes him sneeze, it doesn't hold moisture as well as vermiculite, and he doesn't like the way that it feels or how it makes the garden look.

Well. Aren't we a just a bit Martha. Lemme just write that check for $185 to the pool supply with the agricultural grade.

So that being said, why did I give it five stars? Because other than finding the vermiculite--which we finally did in fine grade for $28 for four boxes--I've rarely seen a more reader-friendly book! It comes complete with layout pages, very consise planting guides, even planting time tables for your area and the amount of time you can store your seeds! If you have never gardened before or started a garden that eventually left you frustrated, then this is the book for you! I just think that you should check your area for agricultural grade vermiculite before you buy the book. But once that little snafu is over, you are going to be amazed at how brilliant and easy this book makes successful gardening.

I highly recommend this method for busy people and parents like myself. It is wonderfully easy to maintain, makes loads of produce, and looks very attractive. Two green thumbs way, way up.

To see my boxes and my experience with the All New Square Foot Gardening method, check out my frugal/tipping blog at http://moness.typepad.com.

A great method for any gardener with any garden size
I rarely buy books, to be honest--it's a matter of money + space - great library = few purchases. However, I have bought several copies of this book because this method is superb: it's neat, it's clean, it's extremely--and I mean extremely--easy to manage. This is--by far--the easiest, best-laid out, user-friendly books I have EVER seen, complete with charts, pictures of each step--you name it. And personally, as a frugalholic, I love a book where someone who doesn't have to worry about cost remembers that other people do--Mel writes this for the frugal at heart complete with LOTS of money-saving tips!!! This book is SO thoughtful it even carries a plan for rooftop gardening and handicap accessibility! It is well worth your money even if you choose another method like lasanga or traditional rows (but why??? My goodness--never again!!!)

It calls for you to--basically--container garden in a four by four foot space and unlike the original square foot method, you do NOT have to til.

Repeat: no tilling. That should cause you to one-click right there. You use a specially made soil called "Mel's Mix". Wonderful stuff. It calls for 1/3 compost, 1/3 peat moss, and 1/3 agricultural grade vermiculite in these very easy to construct 4 x 4 boxes, which are easy to cover, protect, and even make into mini-greenhouses if the need arrises.

The one little caution I want to give is please be aware that the vermiculite is not as easy to find as the author seems to think it is and check in your area before making any real plans. I wound up buying a fine grade from a pool supply company, and then after the fact was informed by an older gardener that I should have looked at the co-op. Start there first, and make sure you always ask if it's agricultural grade. The fine works great for us, but the large pieces will break down over time and work at greater efficiency longer. And remember, you're looking for 40 pound bags, not the little $3 numbers at the home improvement store--that will break the bank before you get the first plant in and the author--again to his credit--recommends avoiding this costly route.

Be sure and stop by the website, squarefootgardening.com for a great in-depth view of the method--it's a great site and includes a gardening plan for home-schooled children. Mel is a friendly author and one truly gets the impression that he is doing this because he loves it and the advantages this type of gardening can give the average joe (who usually has planting fever in the spring and burns out by the summer) and not because it sells gardening books. You would be well-advised to purchase this book--it'll change your view of gardening forever--in a good way.

I have recieved several questions on my blog about purchasing this book, all of which are answered at moness.blogspot.com, all of which were posted in March of 2006, and I include our progress as well. One of which is no--don't buy the old book at a cheaper price. They are apples and oranges, and after having read both, this is far and away the best way to go.

Did I mention no tilling?

Great book, but a few drawbacks...
I've square-foot gardened for a number of years (mostly following the statutes of Mel's original book), and last season, upon moving to a new house, I made raised beds based on Mel's all-new method in this book. My thoughts almost exactly match those of reviewer S. L. Hutchison in his May 19, 2006 Amazon user review of this book entitled "Great concept but keep in mind..." It's a review worth reading.

The two things I would add to Hitchison's review are:
1. In many ways this "All New" book lacks a lot of the scope and detail of the original book. The old book seemed a bit more balanced and complete in the range of specific plants discussed, for instance. While I now follow the "rules" of this new book, I occasionally refer back to the old book for specific plant info, etc., not included in the new book. If you can buy a cheap used copy of the original book along with this new one, I don't think you'll regret it.
2. The editing on this new book was lacking. Some of the information is redundant, and some information in the planting charts is obviously incorrect--information "copied and pasted" into the wrong plant's section, etc. Nothing that will ruin your garden, but enough to leave me feeling cautious about the info. in the book as I read onward.

All in all, I like Mel's improvements to square-foot gardening, and I'm very glad he has written this book.

Earthway 1001-B Precision Garden Seeder with 6 Seed Plates From Earthway

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Product Details

Earthway 1001-B Precision Garden Seeder with 6 Seed Plates From Earthway List Price: $119.99 Price: $89.55 & eligible for FREE Super Saver Shipping on orders over $25. Details Availability: Usually ships in 24 hours Ships from and sold by Amazon.com 31 new or used available from $84.00 Average customer review:

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Product Details

• Amazon Sales Rank: #632 in Home Improvement
• Brand: EarthWay
• Model: 1001-B
• Number of items: 1
• Dimensions: 7.88" h x 7.52" w x 27.31" l, 22.50 pounds

Features

• Garden seeder designed for easy, efficient, effective planting
• Automatically spaces seeds at ideal intervals
• Tough, weather-resistant construction; assembly required
• Includes 6 seed plates
• Available seed plates for separate purchase

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Editorial Reviews

Amazon.com Product Description
The Earthway Precision garden seeder provides a more efficient way to seed large vegetable gardens and flower beds The seeder comes with six standard seed plates for seeding sweet corn, bean, peas, carrots, beets, and radishes: install the appropriate plate, and it will automatically space seeds at the ideal length. It also opens, closes, and packs the soil, and even marks the next row ahead of time. The seeder is made from tough, weather-resistant materials for years of trouble-free operation. Assembly is required. Additional seed plates are available for purchase separately.

Amazon.com Review
If you're looking for a more efficient way to seed a large vegetable garden or flower bed, consider the Precision Garden Seeder from Earthway Products. The seeder comes with six standard seed plates: install the appropriate plate, and it will automatically space seeds at the ideal length. It also opens, closes, and packs the soil, and even marks the next row ahead of time. Note: assembly is not for the faint of heart and requires at least 20 minutes with a few basic tools to complete.

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Customer Reviews

Almost more of a specialty tool
While this is a good tool on the whole -- and not too expensive either -- it still isn't for every gardener nor for every purpose in the garden. To remove all doubt, perhaps it should not go without saying that this is not a tool for making hills for melons, squash, or zukes. It will not help you with transplants such as tomatoes, nor will it handle seed potatoes. No, this seeder is for rows of things like beans and corn, and in these cases it shines. I still think, however, that you have to be planting a pretty big garden to make it worth your time to set-up the Earthway seeder, learn to use it, store it, and maintain it.

On the pro side, for instance, I used my new Earthway seeder to plant more than 700 row-feet of popcorn. Wow! The Earthway seeder practically paid for itself that day, since it allowed me to plant the entire plot in less than 45 minutes and with no bending over! I also used it to plant plots of field corn, beans, and beets.

Here are my notes, for what they're worth:

1.) Have freshly tilled, fine, debris-free soil. It is difficult to push the seeder through crusted soil or anything with too many lumps in it, and you won't get those perfectly straight rows if you're struggling just to move forward. Also, too much surface trash will be a problem for the little chain that drags behind and covers the seed. Hint: do "dry runs" with the seeder at the proper depth, but without seed in the bin. This will give you a sense of how well it's going to work before you commit your seed, and it helps to mark your rows in advance too.

2.) Have enough seed, and watch the seed plate closely as it turns. If the seed bin gets low, the pockets in the seed plates will often fail to scoop up the seeds in a regular fashion. You'll end up with a lot of skips. Of course, if you're not buying your seed at least ¼ pound at a time, I'm not sure why you'd want this tool anyhow.

3.) Select your seed plate carefully, and if needed test it with the seed before use. (Attach a plastic bag under the seeder or something.) For example, I had a limited quantity of small soup beans. I popped in the bean plate and made two rows. Before the end of the second row, however, I was out of seed, which should not have been the case. I didn't figure this out till after the seeds sprouted: that seed plate scooped up those small beans two at a time and double-planted the first row, leaving insufficient seed for the second row.

4.) If you are considering the Fert-A-Ply attachment for the seeder, re-think that. I did not realize till the attachment arrived that I could not use it at the same time as I planted -- meaning that it took re-configuring the seeder and another full set of passes to apply an amendment to my rows. Also, the construction and the few moving parts of the attachment are extremely chintzy. I could not get mine adjusted well and used quite a bit more expensive material than I intended.

5.) The assumption for the Earthway seeder is that your seed is dry. If you like to soak your seeds before planting, or if you want to wet-innoculate things like green beans before planting, I don't think this is the tool for those cases.

6.) I have not tried the seeder with pelleted seeds of any kind, but I bet it would work well for that. Again, pick your seed plate carefully.

7.) Of course, straight rows are an advantage for mechanized cultivation equipment in your garden or even for zipping through the rows with a wheel hoe or high-wheel cultivator. Even if you're not obsessive about straight rows, however, this seeder still can be a time- and back-saver.

I hope this helps you to make a more informed choice.

Not What I Expected
I have a fairly big garden, so I decided to make my life a little easier next spring, and thus I bought this seeder. However, so far, it's not what I thought I would be getting as far as a truly precision planter is concerned. The seeds dropped irratically and/or popped out of the bin because the plates would bind up then suddenly spring loose. I used different sized plates trying to find that exact match with the same results. I contacted the factory by email (their response was very quick) and was told to use bee's wax and soap to make it work correctly. For the price of the unit, I expected something with less "after-market engineering" required by me to make it funtion as advertised. I refuse to admit defeat, so I'm keeping it and will continue to practice with it until spring. If it or I don't get better, I know where you can get a used one cheap next summer!

Too awesome for words!
First of all, I'm a gardener from way back. I helped my mom weed her flowers when I was still in the womb. I love garden gadgets and all things bliss-enhancing. When I was a teenager my grandfather bought the first incarnation of the Earthway Precision Garden Seeder and it was love at first shove. Not only does it plow the furrow, it plants the seeds at a precise depth and covers them up, it also marks the next row for you so that your garden doesn't sprout into a psychadelic homage to 1970's acid waves. I love, love, love this little jigger! It clogs from time to time, but if you're watching every perfect little seed get tucked away neatly into it's new earthly bed, you'll catch it before you have to re-plant the entire garden. What took my father and me 2 hours last year to do by hand, we did in under 15 mintues using this little gem. An entire garden planted in 15 minutes! And not only that, but we hand-sowed a 1/4 acre plot of corn in under 25 mintues, stopping to pass off and admire the absolute fantastical spectacle of it all as it was happening. LOVE this thing!

Gardening Guide - Tips to Growing Backyard Green Beans

Gardening Guide - Tips to Growing Backyard Green Beans By Ken Miller Ken Miller Level: Platinum Ken Miller is a freelance writer and lover of gardening and cooking. He developed his gardening expertise through 40 years of back yard gardening experience. ... ...

One of my greatest joys in life is walking into the garden and picking a bucketful of beautiful, fresh

green beans. Then taking them directly to a pot of boiling water in the kitchen. Nothing like it.
Three days later, I can do it again. And so can you with these tips.

First, you need to decide what to plant. The two main choices are bush beans or pole beans. I prefer
pole beans because they are easier to pick, have better flavor and have less problems from pests and
disease.

Pole beans, of course, require something to climb on and, therefore, tend to take up space.
But, if you think limited space prevents you from having pole beans, guess again. You can have enough beans
for a family of four in a six square foot area.

A method I use is to take three six foot long wooden poles (don't use metal) and place them in a tripod
arrangement, tying them together at the top. It only takes about a three foot area, so you can have
two of them in a six foot plot.

Plant the beans indoors 4-6 weeks before the last frost, in peat pots. Do not use pots that require
you to remove the plant from the pot to transplant. The peat pots can be planted directly in the garden
without disturbing the roots.

Prepare the soil by adding compost (I prefer well-aged manure) as soon as you can work the soil
in the spring. Most important!!! Plant your beans in a spot that gets at least 6-8 hours of direct
sun each day. Beans love the sun.

As the beans send out long shoots, train them to climb the poles if they do not do it own their own
(generally, they will). Keep them watered but not soaked. Fertilize once when the plants start
climbing the poles.

There are many varieties that thrive in practically any summer climate, as long as you have
about six weeks of over 70 degree days. I like the "bluelake" for it's ease of growth, good
flavor and high yield.

So, give it a try this year. Then when you smell those fresh beans that you grew, cooking in the kitchen,
you, too, will experience one of the great joys of life.

Find Peace And Happiness Through Gardening

Find Peace And Happiness Through Gardening By Susan Jan

Gardening is a wonderful and relaxing hobby enjoyed by many all over the world. People who enjoy gardening often feel a deep-rooted sense of calm and tranquility, and they also forge a stronger connection with nature.

There are many types and forms of gardening. Organic gardening is a unique method of gardening and allows the gardener to really bond with Mother Nature. Organic gardening really gets down to the basics of growing fruits and vegetables, using only what Mother Nature provides. Container gardening is another way of gardening and allows many people who do not have their own garden to still enjoy gardening using pots and containers.

Container gardening is a great way to decorate and accentuate your house and your outdoor area. Plant containers such as clay urns, metal pans, terra cotta pots, wine tubs, wood boxes, bath tubs, glass bowls, wire baskets, sisal rope planters, cement hollows etc. all work well. You want to be sure to have an assortment of beautiful flowers and plants of varying heights as well as shapes and textures when planning your garden.

Organic gardening requires much more attention and involvement in the whole process. When you grow the plants organically, you do not add any artificial or chemical substances to the soil to avoid their negative health consequences. In organic gardening natural compost is needed to fertilize the soil. Natural compost is derived from plant, fruit or kitchen waste and contains no harmful chemical pesticides in it.

Whether you go for container gardening or organic gardening, the preparation and gardening methods are pretty similar. After you decide on what type of gardening you want to do, prepare your spot and soil for planting. You must remove all weeds, grass, stones, etc using various gardening supplies or herbicides. When this is completed, you can plow the planting area and add nutrients such as manure, compost, peat or sand to the soil. If your soil is too sandy, you will need to add compost to give it the necessary nutrients it needs.

Gardening supplies are essential for good gardening. They make gardening easy, and there are certain gardening supplies that gardeners find indispensable, including gloves, spade, scissors, pruners, levelers etc. Make sure to buy good quality gardening supplies for ease of use, such as gardening gloves made of high quality leather, and gardening spades or pruners made of stainless steel.

To learn more about Gardening, visit Susan's sites at love-gardening.info, gardening-club.info and gardening-fun.info.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Susan_Jan

Organic Gardening - Reasons Pepper Plants Can Turn Yellow

Organic Gardening - Reasons Pepper Plants Can Turn Yellow By John Yazo John Yazo Level: Platinum My name is John Yazo. I enjoy Organic Gardening with heirloom plants, planting/gardening. Tomatoes plant easily in an organic garden, vegetable gardening with organic methods ... ...

One of the most common problems that the home gardener have with their pepper plants is the yellowing of their leaves. This can be caused by a few different reasons. The first is the lack of nitrogen and magnesium, another reason is chlorinated water, soil splash on the lower leaves from watering and a fungal problem.

The first reason, the yellowing of leaves is most of the times caused by a lack of nitrogen and magnesium in the garden's soil. This can be simply a result of the nutrients being leeched from the soil due to excess water. Pepper plants only need 1" of water per week. Another reason is the plants may need an application of fertilizer that is high in nitrogen to get past this problem.

Normally you wouldn't want to give pepper or tomatoes a high dose of nitrogen, it will usually result in lush foliage and not a strong harvest. You need to get the plants healthy again, so if they need a dose of nitrogen do it sparingly.

Another thing that works for me is to apply an epsom salt spray to my pepper plants. Epsom salt will supply magnesium and calcium that can be absorbed by the leaves for a quick recovery. You may want to try this foliar spray. I mix 3 tablespoons of epsom salt to one gallon of water and spray the foliage.Then I apply a slow release organic fertilizer that is high in nitrogen to the soil around the plant. At this time I remove any flower buds so the plants can solely concentrate their energy on there foliage. There is still plenty of time for a productive harvest.

If chlorine is the problem, you can simply rid the water of chlorine by just running the water into a bucket and letting the bucket stand for a few hours to allow the chlorine to evaporate.

Lower leaves that turn yellow on your pepper plants can be simply caused from soil splash when watering. They will yellow and wilt. Remove these yellow leaves and your plants should do just fine.

A environment friendly and healthy way of gardening. Organic Gardening is away of gardening in harmony with nature. Growing a healthy and productive crop in a way that is healthier for both you and the environment.

John Yazo

http://www.organicheirloomgardening.com

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=John_Yazo

How to Get Rid of Garden Ants

How to Get Rid of Garden Ants By C. Andrew Smith C. Andrew Smith Level: Basic The author has worked in the fields of Pest Control and asbestos Consultancy and is an avid fly fisherman in his spare time....

The common Garden or Black Ant (Lasius niger) can be a persistent nuisance for many, especially through the summer months. This species of ant does not bite or sting and is not associated with spreading pathogens. Therefore, having Garden Ants in your home will not present a risk to your health.

Garden Ants live in colonies or "nests". Each nest will have a Queen and several hundred workers. Large nests may have workers numbering into the thousands. The Queen is approximately 15mm in length and her sole purpose is to lay eggs. The workers are typically 4-5mm in length and their tasks are building/maintaining the nest and gathering food. It is their desire for sweet/sugary foods that bring these ants into contact with humans.

Worker ants will leave the nest each day to forage for food. When they find a suitable food source, the worker will return to the nest leaving a scent (pheromone) trail by tapping its abdomen on whatever surface it is travelling upon. Other workers will pick up on this scent trail and before long, you will have a constant stream of ants travelling between the nest and the food source.

Garden Ants like to build their nests in well-drained soil, typically with a high sand content. This explains why paved gardens are prone to Garden Ant activity. They can be quite intuitive and take advantage of other nesting places such as rotten timber, brickwork (tunnelling into mortar) and even in large plant pots. Keep an open mind when searching for the nest!

Flying Ants

During mid to late summer, newly hatched queen and drone (male) ants will leave the nest en-mass. These ants are winged and are commonly called "Flying Ants". Theses ants will mate whilst flying - show offs! And shortly afterwards the males will die, the queens will return to earth, shed their wings and look for a suitable place to start a new nest.

Eradicating ants from your garden can be a thankless task and, if they are not entering your home and causing a nuisance, are best left alone. If they are causing a nuisance, your first plan of action should be to try and locate the nests. It is quite common to have more than one nest in the average garden. Look for sandy deposits in cracks and gaps amongst any paving. Nest entrances look like mini volcanoes of sand with a small hole in the centre. There are likely to be several entrance holes for one nest. Check under plant pots, around the base of your walls and beneath any long-standing garden junk (old pieces of timber, planks, bags of waste/cuttings, etc). If you have a stream of ants marching to and from your kitchen, try and follow them (keep in step) to reveal where their nest is.

Treating With Insecticide

If you find the nest the best way of destroying it is to flood it with a water-based insecticide. Insecticide availability will vary from country to country. Your local Garden Centre or DIY retailer should be able to advise you which products are suitable.

Using a low-pressure sprayer, like those used for applying weed killer, place the sprayer nozzle directly into the nest entrance hole and apply the spray. Be careful not to over-pressurize your sprayer. You just need a gentle flow of liquid and gravity will ensure the insecticide reaches the bottom of the nest. Too much pressure and you risk "blast-back" as the spray rebounds off the ground to drench your face. Make sure you are wearing the correct protective equipment indicated on the product label, usually a mask, goggles and gloves. You should see that the nest has been flooded when the insecticide starts to bubble out of the other entrance holes. Bare in mind that the nest can have many chambers and tunnels underground so wait for a few seconds and apply the spray again to make sure that as much of the nest as possible is flooded by the insecticide. Surface spraying in the garden is not advised as the insecticide is not discriminating in its action and will kill any insect that comes into contact with it. The insecticide will also be broken down at the molecular level by sunlight UV and rainwater and so will have no long lasting effect.

If you cannot locate any nest, the only option available to you is to create a barrier along your building perimeter to deter the ants from entering. You can use the same water-based insecticide for this, or you can use an insecticide powder. The powders have a much longer life than the sprays but are unsightly and rather messy. Both the insecticide spray and powder will kill any ants that come into contact with them but the powders also create a physical barrier and most ants will detect the powder and choose not to cross it. To create your barrier, look for any possible entry points in your home, these could be under doors, around pipes, cracks in window frames/skirting and through ventilation bricks. Apply your insecticide (powder or spray) on the inside and outside at each point. Be aware that the external barrier will need to be replenished after any rain. If you are using a powder, try not to go over the top and just use a light dusting, as there will come a time when you will want to remove it.

Ant control can be an ongoing problem principally because they nest outdoors and any treatment is liable to be neutralized by adverse weather. With this in mind, be sure to check your local weather forecast before you start your treatment.

The author has spent over 15 years working in the Pest Control industry. For more about pest control at home please visit http://www.PestControl-At-Home.com

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=C._Andrew_Smith

How to Make a Hydroponic System - The Secret to Making an Excellent and Simple System

How to Make a Hydroponic System - The Secret to Making an Excellent and Simple System By Floyd Reynard

Learning how to make a hydroponic system is great. You are building a very powerful system that is able to grow plants better and faster than any other method we know of.

This article will show you how to build a wick hydroponic system. This is a simple system but can very effective. It works by using a fabric wick to soak up water and nutrients from a reservoir below. It is so good that you can leave it unattended for a few days at a time with no issues.

Below are the steps to show you how to make a hydroponic system;

For this system, use two containers, One larger (the water reservoir) and one smaller one (the container which holds the plant). The idea is to have the smaller container wedged into the larger container without touching the bottom of the larger container.

What sort of larger container should you use?

Use a bucket which has straight sides. Paint it black on the inside, to prevent algae from growing.

What sort of smaller container should you use?

Use a normal plastic plant pot, that is tapered (i.e. make sure that it is wider at the top than the bottom). Most plant pots fit this description. Ensure that the top of this container is wider than the top of the larger container.

Also make sure, that the bottom of the smaller container, is narrower than the top of the larger container. This container should slide inside the larger container, but not all the way. It should also not touch the bottom of the large container.

What do you do next?

Drill a hole in the bottom of the smaller container. Through this, thread a large cotton wick. You can use some thick cord from the hardware. Use a cord which is about half an inch thick.

Make sure it is long enough, to go from the water reservoir at the bottom, to halfway into the smaller container. The smaller container is where the plant and growing medium will be. The wick will constantly carry water and nutrients to the plant.

Also drill a hole in the side of the larger container just below where the small container sits. This will allow for any excess liquid, to drain out of the side of the larger container, and not flood the smaller container.

Fill the smaller container with a combination of Perlite and Vermiculite, ensuring that the wick goes well into the mixture. Your hydroponic system is now set up and ready for planting. Carefully wash any soil from the roots of the plant which you are going to use. Carefully plant it into its new home.

Now all you need to do is water your new plant with an appropriate nutrient solution. Make sure you water it enough, so that the water reservoir at the bottom fills up. All you need to do now is to check that the reservoir at the bottom does not run completely dry.

Whenever it is nearly empty, water it again to fill it up. In hot weather, this may be every few days, and in cool weather it may be every couple of weeks. That's all there is to setting up a hydroponic wick system.

Do you want to learn even more about hydroponics?

Hydroponics is constantly evolving. The more knowledge you have the more successful you will be. To really get great advice, on how to make a hydroponic system, read and watch hydroponic secrets. This is a key guide which will make you very successful, very quickly.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Floyd_Reynard

Beginner Organic Gardening

Beginner Organic Gardening By Amy Cohen

There are many reasons to learn beginner organic gardening. Creating an organic garden is simple and easy and does not require as much work as you would think. A little know-how goes a long way.

As an Organic Gardener myself, I hope these tips will help you create your own organic garden.

The first thing is to choose a location for your vegetable garden. Choose a location that receives the most sun through out the day. Plants love the sun. Determine where the sun rises and sets so you can choose where to plant accordingly to size so that no plant shades another.

There are different types of beds you may want to create such as a raised bed or create a border. Till your soil with organic soil conditioner or organic soil to create the best possible soil for your vegetables to thrive.

After you decide on the location and size, it's time to choose what vegetables you want to plant now that you are learning beginner organic gardening. Depending on your location and size choose your plants accordingly and what you will consume.

I made the mistake of planting too many different plants for the space I had. I had cucumber and watermelon vines all over, even up my deck. Squash plants grow huge and produce lots of squash! Remember your plants will grow so plant your seedlings taking into consideration that they will get bigger. I had so many vegetables I was giving away tomatoes, eggplant and squash to my neighbors.

For smaller beds, you can plant taller plants such as tomatoes, string beans and eggplants. You can even use a planter for your tomatoes or even the new topsy turvy hangers.

After you have planted your seedlings, we are so excited to watch our organic vegetable grow. It's very rewarding to see the fruits of our labor flourish. I checked my garden every day with growing excitement and beamed with pride at each new flower that would eventually become a vegetable.

Water your organic garden every day. I water in the morning, works for me and prevents fungus. If your plants are in a planter, they tend to dry out quicker, so keep a sharp eye on them.

Every garden especially a vegetable garden tends to get some pests, such as slugs and beetles, use natural and organic pesticides for your garden.

Amy Cohen is an organic garden who loves to share her tips and tricks about organic gardening. "There is nothing better than getting your hands in the soil and watching your plants grow!!! Getting a fresh organic tomato off the vine, doesn't get any better than that!!!"

Don't miss more tips and techniques...go Beginner Organic Gardening

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Amy_Cohen

How to Build a Raised Garden Bed

How to Build a Raised Garden Bed By Joanne Jones Joanne Jones Level: Platinum Joanne Jones is the owner of Beautiful Creations, an online store featuring original cross stitch patterns designed by Joanne. Joanne started Beautiful Creations as a ... ...

Raised garden beds are an excellent way to add beauty, interest and practicality to your yard. They look wonderful, but only if they are done properly. The main key to remember is to build a stable, solid foundation that is always level. It's a lot of work, but not difficult if you know what to do. Here are the steps you need to follow to create your very own raised garden bed.

Buy the bricks that you will be using. Bricks come in different sizes and shapes. If you want a square or rectangle garden bed, you can buy square bricks. However, if you would like the garden bed to have curves in the wall, then you will need to buy bricks that are trapezoid shaped - that is they have one side that is longer than the other.

Next, choose a spot in your yard where you would like to create a raised garden bed. Then, lay out the bricks on the grass to determine the shape of your garden bed. Your goal here is to come up with a design that you like and to determine the number of bricks you will need for your project. Remember to do all four sides of the garden bed. Once you have a design you like, then use a marker to number the bricks. Place the number on the top of the brick. For example, if you have 30 bricks, number them 1/30, 2/30, etc. This marker will be permanent, but since the bricks will be covered it doesn't matter.

You are now ready to remove the grass below the bricks. Use an edger and go around the edge of the bricks on both sides. Push the edger deep enough in the ground to cut the grass so that it will be easy to remove. Once you have gone around all the bricks, you can remove them and place them to the side. Remove the grass - start with where the bricks were placed. Once that grass has been removed, you can dig down a few inches. Then remove the remaining grass.

Once all the grass has been removed, you are ready to prepare the foundation for the bricks. The bricks must sit on at least two inches of screening and must be two inches below the ground from the lowest point of the garden. This last point is very important, as most yards will have a slight slope to them, however, you do not want your garden bed to have a slope. It must be level; otherwise it will not be stable or attractive looking.

What is Safe to Use For Mulch Or Compost in a Vegetable Garden?

What is Safe to Use For Mulch Or Compost in a Vegetable Garden? By Francis King

As a gardening enthusiast, you should know the importance of mulch. Mulch is spread on top of the soil close to the plants or vegetables to prevent the soil drying up, erosion and the growth of weeds. Mulch can be made up of a variety of materials such as wood chips, sawdust, straw, dried leaves, twigs etc. Actually, whatever you use to make compost can generally be used as mulch. But the difference between mulch and compost is that mulch is spread on top of the soil whereas compost is better worked into the soil by digging because compost is your vegetables' natural fertilizer. So for mulch, just spread them on top of the soil close to the vegetables and dampen them with water.

Almost all plant residue (pruning, cuttings, fallen leaves etc) can be used as mulch. But when it comes to Oleander, you need to be careful. The Oleander is an evergreen plant that can grow to heights of between 6 to 12 feet and up to 20 feet wide. It flowers between summer and early fall. The size of the flower is about 1 ½ inches in diameter. They can have single or double petals with colors like white, red, pink, rose, salmon or magenta. Found mainly in South Asia and the Mediterranean, every part of the Oleander is poisonous especially its milky sap. In fact, eating only a few leaves can kill a small child. The plant's leaves are also coated with a certain kind of dust which can make you sick if you were to breathe it into your lungs or have contact with it on your skin. The dust is especially abundant in summer when it's dry and hot. So if you want to prune or cut an Oleander plant, do so after a heavy rain. Also, protect yourself with gloves so as not to come into contact with the sap. So can the Oleander be used as mulch or compost?

Research shows that when Oleander is added into the compost heap, its toxin known as oleandrin depletes after 50 days. So when the compost is added to the soil, it does not harm the vegetables. Studies with lettuce (which are quick blooming vegetables) and tomatoes (which are slow in getting ripe for harvest) both do not detect Oleander's toxic substances in them. But using Oleander as mulch is riskier because the Oleander parts are not as decomposed as in compost. Hence it is better to be safe than sorry. If you wish to use Oleander as mulch, use them on ornamental plants (like flowers) but not vegetables.

If you do add Oleander into your compost, leave the compost to mature beyond 50 days and make sure every part of the plant is decomposed and no longer visible in its original form before using the compost. Even then, always thoroughly wash the vegetables before cooking and eating them. This is a good practice anyway.
Taking these necessary precautions, you may use Oleander as mulch or compost.

How to Plant a New Garden

How to Plant a New Garden By Douglas Hill

When gardening, before anything is planted, it is highly recommended that the soil is prepared properly. To learn more about this go to my article Soil Prep For Your New Garden for more info on this area.

There are two ways you can plant your garden, from transplants or seeds.

There are a few decisions you will need to make before buying your seeds. First you should take a good look at your garden and be realistic with the amount you can plant. It is better to have more plants and little variety than lots of variety and not enough room to grow a substantial amount of anything. For new gardeners, choosing your seeds will be a little difficult as well. You want to strike a balance between their ability to tolerate disease, the amount of time you have daily to put into your garden, and the time of the season they will mature.

There are numerous places to buy seeds. You can go to a nursery, gardening centers, online, or from mail order catalogue. I would recommend you buy new seeds every year to avoid poor germination the next season. You also do not want to save seeds from your harvest to plant next year. I know that it sounds like a nice sustainable way to produce a good harvest year after year but the problem lies with the fact that we plant more than one vegetable in our garden at a time. The plants that would grow from seeds from last year's harvest will be hybrids of the plants they are supposed to be, due to cross pollination with other plants in your garden. Another thing to remember is that seeds can transmit disease from one year to the next so save yourself a lot of work and aggravation and just buy new seeds every year. One last thing to remember about handling your seeds is that they are chemically sprayed to kill off any disease that may be on or in the seed. This practice also helps prevent the seeds from rotting before you can get them in the ground. So always remember to wash your hands when you are done.

Now it is time to plant your new seeds. There are two methods you can employ; you can sow your seeds by scattering them or planting them in furrows. I would recommend you take the time to plant them properly in furrows so you can regulate the amount of seeds you plant in every square foot of your garden. When planting, try to shoot for a depth of not more than three times the seeds thickness. If you plant too deep the seed may germinate and be too deep to make it to the surface and if too shallow it may be washed away by rain or watering or it may be blown away by the wind. After you add a little bit of mulch on top of your seed row to help you conserve moisture all you have to do is watch and wait.

If you decide to go with the transplant route there are a few more points I want to make to ensue your transplants take. First you need to "harden" your plants. It doesn't matter if you choose to buy them or grow them yourself you must acclimatise your new plants to the outdoors. I recommend you keep your plants in a shady, dry, and windproof location outdoors for 8-10 days before planting. Over the course of this time you should gradually increase their exposure to the sunlight so they can get used to the warmth of the sun. Also to note, during the hardening period you should allow your plants to dry out a little between watering. The hardening period will help your young plants get used to the harsher conditions when growing outdoors than inside a garden center or your home. The day before planting give them a good watering to help them

Them main goal of transplanting is to not disturb the roots too much. It is nice when you can buy your transplants if biodegradable peat pots because you can just plant them into the soil, pot and all. The only recommendation is for you to make sure you completely bury the pot because it can wick out the water from around the plant. If in a non biodegradable pot then you should carefully take the plant out of the pot and gently tease the roots free from the big ball that they have probably become. Plant immediately and only do one plant at a time. Do not take them all out of their pots and then try to plant them.

Once you plant your new plants they may need protection from direct sunlight or frost (depending on the season you plant in). If you are concerned about the sun then lay a wood board down, leaned up so it creates a sun shade. If the possibility of frost is the problem then drape plastic over you plants to avoid getting frost on them. If you use plastic make sure to put small holes in it to allow the plant to breath during the day. You could burn your plants instead of save them.

Companion Planting For Your Vegetable Garden

Companion Planting For Your Vegetable Garden By Julie Sedwick Julie Sedwick Level: Basic I love gardening and parrots. My online passion is SEO and IM marketing....

Companion planting is the method of growing together different plants for a healthy coexistence. Plants benefit by not getting affected by pests and diseases. Basically, this type of planting stimulates the growth of all the plants. Planting the nasturtiums with brassicas, peas and beans is fantastic as it attracts the greenfly away. Companion planting is natural and minimizes the use of sprays and other chemical fertilizers. With certain trial and error you can form a good plan. In your vegetable garden it is extremely useful if you have to increase the yield. The accurate amalgamation of vegetables in planting will enhance growth, lessen diseases and promote the beneficial insects to prosper in the garden.

Planting herbs along with the vegetables also deters the pests due to strong smelling nature of herbs. For example putting rosemary with beans will ward-of the weevils from beans. Similarly putting rosemary, sage, thyme and mint with cabbage prevent the attack of cabbage moths. If you decide to use basil, you will benefit a lot. Basil keeps the flies away from potatoes. Planting chives will deter aphids, mint will prevent ants, garlic shields the potatoes from blight and horseradish will prevent the spud from beetles.

Companion planting vegetables assists in keeping the pests away from other vegetables. For example Rhubarb protects beans from blackfly and leeks prevent carrot fly coming near carrots. Other popular categories of this type of planting are: celery that keeps moths away from cabbage and tomatoes help asparagus by keeping away the beetles. Some vegetables are selective in choosing to live with other vegetables. So you have to be careful in planting these.

Asparagus is very common in this type of planting as it goes well with most vegetables. However, planting asparagus with tomato, parsley and basil is perfect for the whole group. Bush beans are ideal for planting with potatoes, cucumber, corn, celery and strawberries. However, don't think of planting the bush beans with onions. The two stunt each other's growth. In this type of planting, lettuce protects radishes and onions protect beetroot. Planting the cabbage family, (broccoli, Brussels sprouts, cauliflower and kale) along with beet, celery, cucumber, lettuce, onion, potatoes and spinach is extremely beneficial. But planting the cabbage family with dill, strawberries, pole beans and tomatoes will have adverse effects. Carrots are great for planting with a wide variety of vegetables like peas, celery, cucumber, lettuce, rosemary, onions and sage; but they should not be grown with dill.

Celery happens to be the friendliest vegetable. It goes well with almost all the vegetables but has a special liking for asparagus. Similarly planting lettuce with carrots, cucumber and strawberries creates good produce. On the other hand corn will rebel against tomatoes, but will love to grow with potatoes, beans, peas and pumpkin.

There are various flowering plants which can be used in planting with vegetables. Zinnias prevent pest attack if used; it is planted with cucumbers, melons and marrows. Planting marigolds with beans helps in protection of beans.

The list of plants used in companion planting is long and some are:

Borage can be used for planting with tomatoes and strawberries. It magnetizes bees and wasps and also adds useful minerals to the soil.

Catnip keeps away the beetles, ants and mice, and has a sweet fragrance.

Chives further the zest and development of carrots and tomatoes. It prevents scab if planted with apple trees.

Planting coriander with some vegetables repels aphids, spider mites and potato beetle.

Peas helps in enriching the soil with nitrogen, which is very useful for a variety of other plants.

Parsley along with tomatoes and asparagus defend against beetles and attract hoverflies.

The menthol in mints is exercised for good usage as it repels white cabbage moths, aphids and flea beetles, but invites bees and beneficial insects.
Planting radishes with the squash plants give protection against insects which eat the fleshy vegetables.

Companion planting is the mantra for organic farming. Exercise the uses, so as to improve the production of your vegetable garden.

Organic Gardening Information

Organic Gardening Information By Ian Pennington Ian Pennington Level: Platinum Ian Pennington is an accomplished author and niche website developer. He write about various topics that he researched and find an interest in at the ... ...

When you plan your garden it is best to get some organic gardening information. This would guide you to make the best choice of plants and give you all the information that is needed. When looking out for organic gardening information you can look into the various books that are available. You will have to follow the instructions that are mentioned. Alternatively, you can also get organic gardening information from the internet. Today, there are umpteen numbers of websites that provide valuable information on how to grow a garden well and what is the right method to do so.

Most of the organic gardening information would tell you that the first thing to do is decide where you want to set up your garden. This would depend on the kind of a place you live in. whether it is an independent house or an apartment. If an independent house then you can plan a vegetable garden close to your kitchen. This would help you to get fresh vegetables when ever you need them. In apartments you will have to check up what kind of vegetables and plants you can grow there.

Organic gardening information would also provide details of the kind of vegetables that you can grow there. The tools and equipments that is required when you get into gardening. Information about seeds and from where you can find the best quality seeds would also be provided. You can also know when your plants need manure and you will be able to identify the pests in your garden.

The advantages of organic gardening information are that you will be able to know all the necessary information. When planning a garden you would like some one to guide you with the process. This is what organic gardening information would do. You can rely on the information that is provided. What better, you can also get information about the place from where you can buy the plants that you need. What kind of plants is suitable for the temperature that you live in would be told in such guides. You will have to follow the instructions carefully to get desirable results.

If you have a problem with growing any kind of plants either because of the temperature of due to pests in the garden, then organic gardening information would provide you with the best knowledge. You would be able to identify the pests and also get rid of them. Such information is very handy. You can keep such information with you all the time; it would definitely come handy when ever you need it.

Why Coffee Grounds Are Beneficial to Plants and Gardens

Why Coffee Grounds Are Beneficial to Plants and Gardens By Steve Charles Habib

Coffee grounds have long been used as fertilizer for plants. They can be added to existing or new garden beds. The grounds will run off and keep out ants, garden snails and slugs from your gardening beds.

How coffee grounds benefits plants

Coffee grounds provide plants with many of essential nutrients including magnesium, calcium and nitrogen. Theses nutrients are very beneficial to plants and are often found in fertilizers. The grounds can add a significant amount of acidity to the soil. Blueberries, roses, and gardenias are a few plants known to love acidic soil. Using coffee grounds for other plants may prove to be harmful. Before adding the grounds to any plant research it and learn if acidic soil is preferred.

Other benefits included making the soil easier to till, which is good news if you're no longer a teenager with a strong back. Worms eat coffee grounds and are quite beneficial to have in your garden. The worms spread the nutrients as they travel through the dirt. This aerates the soil, which means more oxygen is provided to the roots. The more oxygen that reaches a plants root the better its health and growth.

How to use

There are different ways of putting coffee ground to work in your garden. For example, they may be sprinkled around the base of existing plants. With this method the plant receives a small dose of nitrogen each time it is watered. Piles of coffee grounds can be harmful to the plant, depriving it of oxygen as the grounds clump together.

You may also use them by digging them into the ground around plants. Avoid going deeper than one inch, mixing the soil and coffee carefully than watering the plant.

If you are preparing new beds for planting, use the grounds by tilling them well into the soil. Before planting, water the soil thoroughly, so the nutrients are properly released into the soil.

tomato growing - 3 things you need to know

Tomato Growing - 3 Things You Need to Know By Cris Young

There are three major issues that you should know to get the most out of your tomato plants. Growing tomatoes is easy, but a little planning ahead of time ensures that your tomatoes will be disease-free, plump, juicy and prolific. Here are three tomato growing tips to begin your gardening journey:

1. Choose the best location - Tomatoes love sun, so the location you choose should be sunny, whether it's a spot in your outdoor garden or a container on the patio. You must have a minimum of 6 hours sunlight for your tomatoes to produce their fruit.

2. Nutrients and water consumption - Your tomato plants must have the proper nutrients and the right amount of water to produce the fresh-tasting and fruit-bearing results you want. Before you plant the tomatoes, work the soil with a compost or fertilizer to create a rich venue for your seedlings. Periodically give your plants a lift with a fertilizer - used coffee grounds placed around the base of the plants will also help.

Your tomato plants are thirsty little creatures when they're growing, so it's important that you water them frequently. Don't let the soil dry out and then deluge the tomato plants with water. Consider a drip water system to ensure that the plants receive water on a timely basis. A great tip for do-it-yourself gardeners is to wash out gallon milk jugs, pierce the sides and bottom with holes, and then bury them in the soil between your tomato plants with only the top sticking out of the ground. Fill the jugs with water and they'll release it as the soil dries out, ensuring that the plants are watered deeply.

3. Stake or cage your tomato plants - Tomatoes are vines and must be kept from growing across the ground, leaving them susceptible to disease or fungus, so be sure to stake your plants early on. Some people prefer cages that you can purchase at any garden store. Staking your tomato plants while they're young will also prevent disturbing their root formation later on.

These are the three main tips to get started growing tomato plants. But, you must also be diligent in pruning dead leaves and branches and harvest the tomatoes when they're ripe and ready to eat.

If you have a problem, there's plenty of information online or in helpful books that will address some of the roadblocks you may come across when growing tomatoes. Be patient and soon you'll have the fresh, sun-ripened taste of tomatoes on your table.

Growing tomatoes isn't just fun - it's downright rewarding and delicious. When you know what your tomatoes need to grow and you are picking bucket-loads of them you will be the envy of your neighborhood.

What's Eating Your Tomatoes - A Guide to Common Pests

What's Eating Your Tomatoes - A Guide to Common Pests By Betsy Cole

You've planted your tomatoes and watched them grow. You're looking forward to the first fruits of your labor, and they may not be far away. But then one day, you go to check on your tomatoes, and something else has been nibbling on them! You have a pest problem. What is causing it, and what can you do to fix it?

My leaves are vanishing!
You may have an infestation of hornworms. Tomato hornworms are widespread throughout the US and southern Canada, and eat the leaves off of tomato plants. They tend to start at the top of the plant, so the damage is fairly obvious.

If you think you have hornworms, check the plants over carefully. Tomato hornworms are caterpillars that can grow to four inches long, but they often blend in with the plant, so look carefully. They have a distinctive spiky "horn" on the back end.

If you find hornworms, you can just pluck them off the plant and drop them in a bucket of water to kill them. Make sure to till your soil well after harvest to destroy any pupae left in the ground.

My leaves are sticky, and turning yellow!
Sticky residue on your leaves are a sure sign that you have whiteflies or aphids on your tomatoes. Whiteflies and aphids live on the bottom of tomato leaves, and suck juices from the plant, leaving it discolored.

Aphids, which are also called plant lice, are small, soft-bodied bugs, usually green, though they come in a wide range of colors. If you have a few aphids on your tomato, it's probably not a concern, though a large-scale infestation can kill plants. Another concern with aphids is that they can spread disease, much as mosquitos can do with humans. If you are having problems with plant disease, dealing with your aphid population may help.

Aphids can be killed using an insecticidal soap. For a more natural solution, a garlic oil spray directly onto the aphids will kill them as well.

My leaves have big holes in them!
Uh-oh! It sounds like flea beetles may have set up in your garden. Flea beetles are small- to mid-sized beetles, which get their name from their characteristic jumping behavior when disturbed. Certain kinds of flea beetles love to feast on tomato leaves.

Flea beetles eat the leaves in patches, leaving the leaves looking lacy. Tomatoes are particularly susceptible during dry patches, since flea beetles hide in wet weather. If your tomatoes are stressed by underwatering, you may see more flea beetle damage.

If you have a problem with flea beetles, you can try a hot pepper or garlic spray to chase them away. These will need to be reapplied frequently. Chemical pesticides will also work on flea beetles.

With container gardening, nearly anyone can grow fresh fruits and vegetables! Check out more ideas for growing vegetables in container gardens.

You Can Stop Tomato Blossom End Rot

You Can Stop Tomato Blossom End Rot! By J. J. Wolf

Tomato blossom end rot is a serious disorder of tomato plants.Growers often are upset to notice that a dark sunken decay has developed on the bottom end of their tomatoes, especially the first tomatoes of the season.Tomato blossom end rot can be very damaging, with losses sometimes as high as 50% of the crop.

Symptoms

On most plants,tomato blossom end rot will generally begin as a little water-soaked area at the bottom end of the tomato.This sometimes appears while the tomato is still green or during the ripening stage. As the rot develops, it will get larger,then become sunken and turn leathery and black.In extreme cases, it may cover the entire lower half of the fruit, becoming flat or concave.Secondary pathogens will also invade the spot, most of the time resulting in complete destruction of the infected fruit.

Cause

Tomato blossom end rot is not caused by a parasitic organism but is a disorder caused by a low amount of calcium in the tomato.Calcium is needed in fairly large amounts for normal cell growth.When a fast growing tomato is robbed of needed calcium, the tissues break down, leaving the typical dry, blackened spot on the bottom end.Blossom end rot is caused when demand for calcium is more than the supply.This may result from low calcium levels in the soil, stress from drought,extreme soil moisture changes which reduce the movement of calcium into the plant, or fast vegetative growth due to adding to much nitrogen.

Management

Keep your garden soil pH around 6.5. Adding lime will supply calcium and will also increase the ratio of calcium ions to other competing ions in the soil.The nitrogen source should be nitrate nitrogen. Ammoniacal nitrogen may actually worsen blossom-end rot as excess ammonium ions lower calcium uptake. Avoid over-fertilization during early fruiting, as one way of managing tomato blossom end rot.Avoid letting drought and wide fluctuations in soil moisture stress the plants by using mulches.

Plants will typically need about one inch of water per week for proper growth and development.Application od calcium through the leaves is of little value due to poor absorption and movement to fruit where needed most.

Learn how to prevent your tomatoes from becoming infected before it happens. With this knowledge it is easy to grow bountiful tomatoes and be the envy of all your friends. To learn more feel free to visit: http://www.squidoo.com/tomato-growing-tips

from shovel to rake - overview of garden tools

From Shovel to Rake - Overview of Garden Tools By Kenny Yong

Decades ago… there was the shovel, then the rake…

You just can’t imagine how creative inventors are. With the help of technology, things become so easy. In the beginning, man cultivated the land manually without the use of any technological innovations. Now, as the world enters another new phase there’s a lot of modernisms that you can benefit from.

Garden tools for instance are utilized for several tasks with varying results. There is no need for you to trim the unwanted grass in your garden because specialized tools have been developed already. From trimming to weeding, tilling and cultivating equipment are out of your luck.

Over time, man was introduced into a realm of modernism. This is the period where technology shines. As this field advances, more and more manufacturers are also introducing a growing category of the tools that are typically used in your backyard. These are the so-called specialty tools.

There are countless of garden tool manufacturers that are excelling in the market. You can purchase simple to the most complicated machines and likewise from the cheapest to the most expensive prices. As a wise gardener you can always make your own choice.

The recent innovation of garden tools makes your gardening experience a truly memorable one. It becomes more enjoyable for both the beginners and the experienced ones. This is probably due to the hassle-free gardening that you never enjoyed before. Garden tools provide you with your long lost dream of convenience in your paradise of shrubs, plants and flowers.

Garden tools are distinguished in various categories. These are primarily designed for specific backyard tasks. Like a doctor, you can also pick the best quality tool in the market for your garden needs.

Do you want to loosen the compacted soil in your backyard? Do you want to get rid of the falling debris and unwanted leaves in your hanging plants? Are you going to apply fertilizer in the soil? Do you want to cultivate or tilt the land?

Put all these worries away from your mind. This is not the right time for you to freak out. You can count on to a number of garden tools that will not only help you with the tasks but will also serve as your friend or company in your entire gardening life.

The development of the garden tools began when a certain company realized the fact that most of the homeowners are looking for equipment or even simple tools that will solve the problems they encounter in their backyard. The task and the demand were on the rise, and then the expansion of services continued its line from one country to the different countries in the world.

Today, there are about two million of garden tools are being sold out. Buying your own garden tool is all about giving solution to the menace that you encounter in your garden. You need not rely on the ideas of the experts and gardening aficionados because you can do it by yourself.

Just remember that searching for the right tools are not only limited to your basic home or office needs because your backyard makes no exception. Like your haven, the backyard also adds beauty and color to your life so it is just right to use the perfect tools for your garden needs.

The Vegetable Gardener's Bible

The Vegetable Gardener's Bible: Discover Ed's High-Yield W-O-R-D System for All North American Gardening Regions By Edward C. Smith List Price: $24.95 Price: $15.72 & eligible for FREE Super Saver Shipping on orders over $25. Details Availability: Usually ships in 24 hours Ships from and sold by Amazon.com 60 new or used available from $11.31 Average customer review:

Product Description

Discover the last W.O.R.D. in vegetable gardening with Ed Smith's amazing gardening system. By integrating four principles -- Wide beds, Organic methods, Raised beds, and Deep beds -- Smith reinvents vegetable gardening, making it possible for everyone to have the best, most successful garden ever. By following this complete system you cultivate deep, powerful soil that nourishes plants and discourages pests and disease. The result is fewer weeds, healthier plants, and lots of great-tasting vegetables. Plus, you'll enjoy gardening as you never have before. The Vegetable Gardener's Bible -- the last W.O.R.D. in vegetable gardening.

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Product Details

• Amazon Sales Rank: #1802 in Books
• Published on: 2000-02-15
• Original language: English
• Number of items: 1
• Binding: Paperback
• 320 pages

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Editorial Reviews

Amazon.com Review
Wouldn't it be lovely to have a patch of corn, lettuce, tomatoes, peppers, and beans just steps from your kitchen door? Would you like to learn how to control your zucchini plant? Ed Smith, an experienced vegetable gardener from Vermont, has put together this amazingly comprehensive and commonsensical manual, The Vegetable Gardener's Bible. Basically, Ed and his family have been growing a wide variety of vegetables for years and he's figured out what works. This book, filled with step-by-step info and color photos, breaks it all down for you.

Ed's system is based on W-O-R-D: Wide rows, Organic methods, Raised beds, Deep soil. With deep, raised beds, vegetable roots have more room to grow and expand. In traditional narrow-row beds, over half the soil is compacted into walkways while a garden with wide, deep, raised beds, plants get to use most of the soil. In Ed's plan, growing space gets about three-quarters of the garden plot and only about a quarter is used for the walkway. Ed teaches you how to create raised beds both in a larger garden or in separate planked beds. One of the most important--and most often overlooked--aspects of successful vegetable gardening is crop rotation. Leaving a crop in the same place for years can deplete nutrients in that area and makes the crop more likely to be attacked by insects. Rotate at least every two years and your vegetables will be healthier and bug-free. There's also a good section on insect and blight control.

Before choosing what to grow, go through the last third of the book, where Ed takes a look at the individual growing, harvesting, and best varieties of a large number of both common and more exotic vegetables and herbs. Whether you are a putterer or a serious gardener, The Vegetable Gardener's Bible is an excellent resource to have handy. --Dana Van Nest

From Publishers Weekly
A committed organic gardener, Smith is a proponent of staggered planting in raised, wide and deep beds that provide conductive root systems and produce abundant harvests. He explains his system, from optimum siting and soil preparation (he prefers broad-forking over rototilling or double-digging) to companion planting and compost ("The path to the garden of your dreams leads right through the middle of a compost pile"). For beginners, he takes the mystery out of such subjects as hardening off ("like a little boot camp for vegetables") and deciphering the shorthand used in seed catalogues. An abundance of photographs (most of Smith's own garden) visually bolster the techniques described, while frequent subheads, sidebars and information-packed photo captions make the layout user-friendly. The book concludes with an alphabetically arranged listing of vegetables and herbs in which Smith offers advice on every aspect of cultivation, as well as a selection of the most flavorful varieties. Smith doesn't necessarily break new ground here, but his book is thorough and infused with practical wisdom and a dry Vermont humor that should endear him to readers. (Feb.)
Copyright 2000 Reed Business Information, Inc.

From Library Journal
Smith, caretaker of a 1500-square-foot garden containing almost 100 varieties of vegetables, clearly explains everything novice and experienced gardeners need to know to grow vegetables and herbs using his system of wide, deep, raised beds. He gives detailed instructions on siting, preparing, and planning a vegetable garden, then goes on to cover choosing plant varieties, starting seed, and growing plants. Smith discusses how to create compost and ecologically friendly methods of dealing with plant diseases and pests. Detailed explanations of companion planting, crop rotation, and succession planting add to his book's value. The final third of the book gives specific cultural information (covering all regions of North America), as well as recommended varieties for many vegetables and selected herbs. Recommended for all libraries for its thorough, easy-to-follow instructions and information on companion plants and crop rotation.
-Sue O'Brien, Downers Grove P.L. IL
Copyright 2000 Reed Business Information, Inc.

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Customer Reviews

Serious gardening.......
Ed Smith is a serious gardener. His approach to vegetable growing is best suited to half acre gardens in the northern areas of the United States. Smith lives and gardens in Vermont and judging by the contents (great photos as well as text) of his book, THE VEGETABLE GARDENER'S BIBLE, I suggest his gardening effort constitutes year-round full-time employment for him. I am a dedicated urban gardener, but one with a less than one-eighth (<1/8)>

My experience has shown that vegetable growing in the city has one advantage over growing vegetables in the hinterland...most of the pests that plague the countryside have not moved to town...yet! When I grew green beans on a half acre plot in the country, I fought a daily war with bean beatles. I've yet to see a bean beatle in my urban back yard. On the other hand, the larvae of the Monarch Butterfly found my parsley last year. Smith's section on pests includes something I have not seen in other gardening books..a picture of Monarch Butterfly larvae or Parsley Caterpillers as Ed calls them, munching away.

Smith is an organic gardener so he advises pest control methods that deter unwanted visitors without damaging the larger envirnoment. He also advises moving the Parsely Caterpillar out of harms' way when you battle other insects. However, the birds living in my yard consider Parsley Caterpillars a delicacy, much to the horror of my granddaughters who watched the pretty little green and yellow striped caterpillars with interest last summer as they grew bigger and bigger until one day they were discovered to have been eaten by a feathered predator who left only a few body parts in his wake.

Smith includes much that will be of interest to anyone setting out to grow vegetables for the fifteenth or first time. Although most of us don't have a green house for winter gardening, most of us do have a sunny window sill that can be used to germinate seedlings for transplanting. Most of us can compost (check out WormWoman.com on the Internet if you live in an apartment).

Smith advocates growing vegetables in (W)ide rows, (O)rganically, in (R)aised beds with (D)eep soil. Even with my small yard, I can do that. We built raised beds with timbers, and filled them with compost made entirely of yard and kitchen waste and the result is fabulous. He provides a nifty section that shows you how to construct a raised bed on a patio or balcony. You may not have a half-acre spread, but you can use Smith's Bible if you want to grow vegetables.

Excellent Reference
This book is a reference manual for vegetable gardeners, particularly those gardening in northern climates. The book is organized into 3 main parts: From Seed to Harvest (covering planning, preparing beds, starting seeds, maintaining the garden, and harvesting), The Health Garden (covering soil, compost, and pests), and Vegetables & Herbs, A-Z (alphabetical guide to individual vegetables). The book is amply illustrated with color photographs and illustrations. End material includes zone maps, a list of suppliers, a list for further reading, and an index.

Smith sums up his approach to gardening in the acronym "WORD", which signifies Wide rows, Organic methods, Raised beds, and Deep soil. He's come to this approach after many years of trying many different methods, and found that this method seems to give him the best, most reliable harvest with the least effort. In this book, he explains the parts of the WORD method in detail. For example, he notes that he found rototilling actually to be counterproductive, since it tends to develop a hardpan of packed soil just under the surface. This hardpan limits root growth, which tends to stunt plants. Instead of rototilling, he advocates building deep raised beds, which provide for full root systems and better growth.

The articles in the alphabetical reference section are quite useful. Each includes a brief description of the vegetable, notes on when and where to plant, and notes on harvesting and storing. Instructions are also provided when needed about how to transplant. Each article comes with a quick reference chart that covers sowing (depth, temperature, days to germination, etc.) and growing (temperature, spacing, watering, companions, seed longevity, etc.) Overall, the book is very informative, the text is clear, and the pictures are quite helpful, making the book useful for experienced gardeners as well as beginners.

It's a * * WONDER* * book!
THANK YOU Mr. Smith for writing this book! I couldn't say enough about how helpful it's been to me. Wanting to be careful and do things right, since I'm a beginning gardener, this book tells in simple, everyday language with photos on how to start and keep up a vegetable garden. Here's a list of a few things it covers:

* designing your garden
* insect control
* soil care
* what veges to NOT plant with other veges
* diagrams
* lots of veges and all the info you could want about them
* herb section
* seed companies
* other recommended resources
* and MORE